Decanter January 2021

Published by TI Media Limited The world’s best wine magazine. It is simply the “wine bible”. Every month it provides recommendations on the world’s finest wines and tells you where you can find them. From top Bordeaux to the best value wine on the shelf, Decanter guides you through a maze of wine to help you find the right wine for you. It also offers interviews with leading wine personalities, in-depth guides to the wine regions and the latest wine news.

United Kingdom
Future Publishing Ltd
US$ 8
US$ 45,42
12 Números

en este número

5 min.
month in wine

Tentative hopes for US wine tariff easing Global trade tension has continued to loom over wine shipments in 2020, but in the US there was speculation that a Joe Biden-led administration might reverse tariff hikes on European wines that, according to some retailers, have driven up prices. Wine has found itself in the middle of fraught trade relations this year, from negotiations over Brexit to China’s anti-dumping probes into Australian wine. Two of the most high-profile disputes, however, have been between the EU and US over subsidies paid to Airbus and Boeing respectively. The US imposed $7.5bn of retaliatory tariffs on European imports in October 2019, including 25% levies on French, Spanish, German and UK still wines at 14% alcohol or below. The EU recently indicated it would move forward with levying $4bn of…

1 min.
in brief

n French officials have approved Nyons as the 22nd ‘village’ designation within the Côtes du Rhônes Villages appellation, 22 years after local winemakers first applied. ‘The quality of our wine has finally been recognised,’ said winemaker Chantal Giniès, of organic winery Domaine Giniès. Covering an area of 300 hectares, the Nyons denomination can be used from the 2020 vintage. n Thieves stole about 500kg of grapes from the vineyards of a Canadian winery on the eve of harvest. The Quebec-based winery, Vignoble et Cidrerie Coteau Rougemont, said on Facebook that the theft took place overnight in late October and that it had filed a complaint with police. The winery offered a reward of five cases of wine for information that led to the thieves being caught. n Chinese billionaire entrepreneur…

3 min.
your letters

A woman, making wine and selling Champagne? Really! They’ll be becoming surgeons, engineers and prime ministers next! Your feminist lecture on the ‘Women of Champagne’ (December issue) was really not the sort of thing for which I – and, I suspect, many others – buy Decanter. You can of course print that sort of material if you want to, but, for those who want it, it’s already freely available from the BBC in much larger volumes. I suggest you stick to wine and leave gender politics to others. Your readers will thank you for it. Alexander Pelling, Ampthill, UK The mystery of terroir Whenever winemakers discuss the quality of their wine, you get the same answer: given in French, ‘c’est le terroir’ (it’s the soil). To winemakers, and wine critics alike, it remains…

1 min.
letter of the month

Women in Champagne As your December issue article suggests, not so long ago women in the leadership of production raised eyebrows in Champagne. Thérèse Bertrand of Pierre Bertrand Champagne – you rated her Premier Cru as Exceptional (98pts) in Decanter July 2017 – told me a similar story when I visited her in Cumières two years ago. Her father Pierre Bertrand, unconventionally, passed her the reins and ownership of his life achievements, despite her having seven brothers, three of them older than her. I asked her why the Champagne house was still named Pierre Bertrand, and not Thérèse Bertrand. Her answer reveals the prejudice that women Champagne producers faced at the time. ‘When I took over, you couldn’t give a female name to a Champagne,’ she said. ‘This has changed since, but for…

3 min.
andrew jefford

A year ago, I anticipated ‘a series of sharp shocks’ for the wine world over the next decade. They’ve begun swiftly, jolt on jolt, during the extraordinary year now drawing to a close. I wrote about fires in the Adelaide Hills in the April issue, and the Covid pandemic in June. Most traumatic of all for the wine world was the Glass Fire of late September and early October in Napa, Sonoma and Lake Counties. Many Decanter readers will have visited these wine regions, and may remember a now-devastated property in its former glory days of sunlight and contentment. The Meadowood Resort and Newton, in particular, were both exquisitely Californian, albeit in different styles: the lavish and expansive; the manicured and pretty. Today they’re ashes. I visited Spring Mountain back in…

10 min.
festive buys

Calvet, Crémant de Bordeaux Brut, Bordeaux, France NV 90 £10 Tesco A fruity and vibrant fizz, perfect for Christmas celebrations. Made in the Champagne method, this is crisp and fresh with touches of toasted brioche, citrus flavours and fine, persistent bubbles on the palate. Great as an aperitif. GH Alcohol 12% The Emissary, Asolo Prosecco Superiore, Veneto, Italy NV 90 £17.99 The Emissary Glera and Bianchetta Trevigiana from the rolling hills of the Asolo DOCG. Appley and ever so slightly nutty, creamy aromas are followed by a rich vein of pear, apple and soft stone fruit flavours. The softness is accentuated by some creaminess. Drink with canapés. JB Alc 11% Château de Rochemorin, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux, France 2016 91 £17.99 Waitrose This classy Bordeaux white is 100% Sauvignon Blanc and proves that this grape variety can age. With 10…