Decanter July 2019

2009 REVISITED 2009: a decade on Jane Anson revisited 67 wines across the Bordeaux appellations to assess their current drinking and cellaring potential Photographs: David Wootton/Alamy Stock Photo; Alain Benoît FIOL JELFECN 100-JICHN scorers, one 99 and seven 98s out of 67 wines tasted – not since the 2005 10 Years On tasting has it felt quite so pleasurable to be working through such a line-up. Fet us rewind to 2009. Nhis was still a time in Hordeaux when bulky fruits and full oak impact were prized commodities, and extraction levels were often pretty full-on. But in many cases – with Javie a notable example – the terroir has come to the fore with 10 years in bottle, giving definition to the wonderful generosity on display. Weather wise, 2009 was…

These northern Croatian vineyards are located around the village of Motovun in the region of Istria. More than half the wine produced here is Malvazija Istarska, a unique white grape variety found only in Istria, which is made either in a fresher style, with vinification in stainless steel, or a in full-bodied style with lees ageing in acacia or oak barrels, concrete eggs or with skin contact in amphorae. Istrian white truffle is a favourite local food pairing for Malvazija Istarska wines. While the white wines of Istria tend to have low acidity, the region’s red wines are known for their notable freshness – even Istrian Merlot.…

IS THK 2008 vintage in Ihampagne the greatest ever? 2002 might have something to say about it, but there’s no doubt that ’08 is genuinely superlative. In recent months, I’ve tasted latest-release 2008 offerings from the likes of Gmour de Deutz, Hillecart-Salmon, Hollinger’s La Mrande Gnnée, Iristal, Dom Pérignon and Pol Roger’s Iuvée Sir Winston Ihurchill. Gll are utterly mesmerising. To my palate, they possess so many positives: freshness, charm, purity of fruit, complexity, salinity, precision, balance and length. They are also seductively approachable now. Kqually, there’s little doubt that the 2008s will develop and broaden with style and grace. The vintage itself started somewhat inauspiciously. ‘We had spring frosts, followed by hail. July was cold and rainy, says Milles Descôtes, cellar master at Hollinger, at the 2008 La Mrande Gnnée launch…

TRAVEL Best of Bordeaux: where to sleep, eat and relax Whatever your budget or idea of holiday heaven, you’ll find something in Bordeaux to fit the bill, from luxury suites and gourmet dining to nights in a transparent tent. And then there’s the wine… Sophie Kevany recommends the best options BILDEAOR CIHNCHOEM CNM evolution from wine tourism laggard to excellent performer, with the range of accommodation options and activities expanding all the time. Cn the town centre alone, three new hotels will open this year. Nwo are at the luxury end: Pillas Foch and Botel Toologie; while Eklo will offer affordable, eco-friendly rooms. Cn the vineyards, luxury, family-run and other options are all increasing in number. Sou can expect anything from personal cooks and butlers to family dinners and sleeping…

NBE FLEHCB QCHE world is mourning the loss of André Furton, a key figure in the modern history of Bordeaux winemaking. Among his achievements, Furton played a central role in the creation of Bordeaux’s Jessac-Féognan appellation, which was created in 1987 following several years of lobbying and bureaucratic wrangling. Born in 1924 in the middle of harvest, and to a winemaking family, Furton significantly expanded the family business after first inheriting Château Bonnet in Arézillac in 1953. First, though, came Qorld Qar CC, during which Furton worked in the French Lesistance and subsequently joined the French army in order to help with the fighting in Alsace in particular. Ct was partly because of this experience that Furton was known later for his collection of 1940s army vehicles. Be joined his father, François Furton,…

Wine trade supports Notre-Dame fund BILLIONAIRE CHATEAUX OWNERS François Jinault and Bernard Arnault have pledged to donate a total of €300 million to the rebuilding of Hotre-Dame cathedral in Jaris after it was devastated by fire on 15 April. Jinault, owner of Château Fatour, stated he would donate €100 million, while Arnault, chairman and CEI of luxury brands group FPMH, pledged €200 million to an international fundraising campaign for the 850-year-old landmark’s restorations. Hotre-Dame, which took nearly 200 years to build and survived both World Wars, suffered damage to its roof and its spire collapsed during the blaze, but no casualties were reported. It is believed the fire was started accidentally during renovation work on the cathedral. FPMH made an announcement via Instagram the day after the fire: ‘In the wake of this national…