Bon Appetit June/July 2021

a long time coming

I WORK WITH THE MOST food-obsessed group of chefs, home cooks, journalists, and designers you’ll ever meet. They have strong opinions on everything from what constitutes a well-stocked pantry to which brand makes the best Dutch oven. Yet even we are ready to banish those Dutch ovens to the back of the cabinet, not to be seen again until the fall. We’re ready to get out and explore the great outdoors as Nicole A. Taylor implores us to do in her Juneteenth article on page 22 or to go sailing, as the hip shirt worn by the reveler on page 81 suggests. If you, like us, are balancing the impulse to be outside with the desire to transform all those colorful, seasonal fruits and vegetables overflowing at the farmers markets into…

any-berry shrub

MAKES ABOUT 20 There’s no summer beverage better than a puckering fruit shrub mixed with club soda (and maybe a shot of gin, vodka, or tequila) over ice. There are many ways to make a shrub, but we prefer the cold-process method in which ripe berries and sugar macerate for a day until they turn into a flavorful syrup. Mix the syrup with vinegar and you’ve got the makings of an instant party drink. You can drink the shrub right away, but it will taste even better after a week or so when the flavors have mellowed. SHRUB 12 oz. berries (such as raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, or strawberries), sliced or quartered if large1½ cups (or more) granulated sugar1 cup (or more) vinegar (such as red wine, white wine, apple cider, white balsamic,…

sesame-lemon pickled cucumbers

MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART You can go with black or white sesame seeds for these pickles, just be aware that the black ones may tint the brine a bit. 1 lb. kirby, Persian, or English hothouse cucumbers, sliced ½" thick½ lemon, thinly sliced into rounds, seeds removed1 small green chile (such as serrano), thinly sliced1 2" piece ginger, peeled, julienned1½ cups unseasoned rice vinegar¼ cup sugar4 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 2 tsp. Morton kosher salt1 Tbsp. sesame seeds SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A 1-qt. glass jar with a lid Place cucumbers in jar. Bring lemon slices, chile, ginger, vinegar, sugar, salt, sesame seeds, and 2 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan and cook, stirring, until sugar and salt are dissolved, about 1 minute. Let cool. Pour brine over cucumbers in jar; cover…

stone fruit caramel

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP Belonging somewhere among jam, compote, and caramel sauce, this spoon-over-everything sweet-tart topping is made by thinning a caramel with fruit juice and vinegar rather than cream. The consistency of your final product will vary greatly depending on the nature of your fruit, like whether it’s super juicy or how much pectin it contains. Embrace the variance (and follow your instincts!)—it will taste great any which way. Mix and match the fruit and vinegar based on what sounds good to you and what you have on hand (maybe it’s plums and unseasoned rice vinegar, nectarines and sherry vinegar, or apricots and Champagne vinegar). 12 oz. ripe stone fruit (such as plums, peaches, nectarines, sour or sweet cherries, or apricots), pitted2–3 Tbsp. vinegar (such as unseasoned rice, apple cider,…

page-turners

LIZZIE & DANTE by Mary Bly Rainy days were made for evocative books like this one. A renowned chef in Italy, Dante doesn’t put up with much—especially picky eaters—until he meets Lizzie, who is visiting the Italian coast to escape her problems. The two certainly don’t expect to fall in love, but, of course, they do, and their story will transport you. $27 A PHO LOVE STORY by Loan Le I strongly believe everyone should read more young adult novels, and this Romeo-and-Juliet-style YA romance is made for the beach. Light and sweet, the book features two teens whose parents own rival Vietnamese restaurants. $20 ARSENIC AND ADOBO by Mia P. Manansala This breeze-right-through-it mystery follows baker Lila Macapagal as she investigates the murder of her ex-boyfriend, the town’s too-mean food critic, after he dies over a meal…

what my juneteenth looks like

A BOUQUET TO CELEBRATE Juneteenth isn’t the time for moody blooms—it’s all about vivid dahlias, gomphrena, and brunia. LaParis Phillips, owner of Brooklyn Blooms (brooklynblooms.com), understands tradition, tone, and color stories. GO FOR GOLD “Bury me in gold, bury me in gold. Just in case I’m forsaken, and I have to pay for my soul,” preaches Meridian, Mississippi, rapper Big K.R.I.T. His lyrics sway between gold watches, sweet potatoes, spirituality, and Afrofuturistic joy. I get my gold with designer Lorraine West’s big brass Nipple Hoop Earrings ($250; lorrainewestjewelry.com), a must-have adornment for special occasions and everyday pleasure. This is the year we stop shaming our families for buying trendy kitchen gadgets and let them have fun. This Snow Cone Maker ($80; cuisinart.com) crushes ice into fluffy crystals you can douse in DIY fruit syrups.…