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Surfing Life

Surfing Life #348 Boards

Surfing Life publishes five issues a year, each focussed on one of the five fundamental pillars of the surfing experience - Surfers, Surfboards, Waves, Technique and Travel. The result is a magazine containing quality content which will make a difference to your surfing experience. Essential reading for the active surfer.

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5 Issues

in this issue

4 min.
ed’s words

(Cough.) Hello. Errr … HELLO. Sorry, bit loud. (Cough.) That’s better. Hi. Hi, there. (Perfect.) My name is Jed Smith and I am a journalist and radio presenter. I have been chosen as your captain—that is, editor—for the foreseeable future, so let me start by first saying that it is an honour and a privilege to have your attention, and to be handed the reigns of this here proud and storied publication, Australia’s Surfing Life. Why they’ve trusted it to a punchdrunk pikey from one of the most maligned beaches in the world, Bondi, will no doubt be as confounding to you as it to me. But, let me assure you, you will not be disappointed, there is a silver lining, especially where the reader is concerned. If there is one thing…

6 min.
up ahead

Nestled in an industrial nook just a stroll down the road from Currumbin point on the Gold Coast, sits Shapers Australia. A family-run company that has provided materials, resins, technology and tools for everyone from humble backyard shapers to international heavyweights for more than 30 years. Dan Holloway, who runs the business with his brother Jake, was more than happy to sit down with us and take a look into his crystal ball on where surfboard manufacturing is heading. What’s up ahead in board manufacturing? Where is it going? I think it’s going in the direction of more diversity and the acceptance of diversity. It is about getting to this point where we have boards that better suit the particular surfer and the waves they are surfing to increase their experience. There is…

4 min.
the family

ON THE COVER: "When you were taking off, I swear to god it looked like you were taking off on a closeout. That was pretty mind-bending. To try and get yourself deep enough to get into the nines you had to go to a point where in your brain you’re going, 'I’m for sure not making this', and then you make it. That’s when ya got a nine", Owen recalled (The Big 'O', p. 78) of the two harrowing days of eight- to ten-foot west swell that greeted competitors for this year’s Tahiti Pro. Now consider this is the guy who three years ago nearly died due to a severe head injury suffered at maxing Pipeline, and you start to get a sense of the genius, the courage, and the pure surfing…

1 min.
surfing life

EDITORIAL EDITOR: Jed Smith: SUBEDITOR: Lystra Bisschop: OPERATIONS PUBLISHER: Ray Bisschop: ADMINISTRATION: Angela Thompson: AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND DISTRIBUTOR: Ovato PRINTER: Ovato Australia THE PROFESSOR: Craig Sims: PUBLISHER Surfing Life is proudly published 5 times a year by Ink & Pixel Media Pty Ltd: PO Box 4439 Elanora, QLD 4221. Views expressed by authors are not necessarily those of the publisher. Copyright is reserved, which means you can’t scan our pages and put them up on your website or anywhere else. Reproduction in whole or part is prohibited. ADVERTISE Ray Bisschop 0410 520 525 SUBSCRIBE Visit Or contact SUBMISSIONS Photo or editorial submissions ACKNOWLEDGEMENT TO TRADITIONAL CUSTODIANS Surfing Life magazine acknowledges the traditional custodians of the chagun (earth) and yarrabum (waves of sea) on which we work and play. We pay respect to the traditional families of the Yugambeh language region of South East Queensland, including…

6 min.
gabriel medina’s j-bay masterclass

The mind boggled. It just didn’t seem possible. Gabriel Medina’s 9.73 to take command of this year’s final at the Corona Open J-Bay was one of the most improbable waves ever surfed in a world tour event; up there with CJ Hobgood’s Tahitian tube ride to another dimension in 2015, and Filipe Toledo’s double alley-oop also at J-Bay. When understood in the context of the history of Medina’s backside surfing, it takes on another dimension. Bigger than anything that had come through all contest, the wave barely clung to the reef and had a bizarre triangular wedge running through it. Most world tour surfers would barely have managed a four on it. Consider, also, that Medina was already down a near perfect 9.1 to countrymen Italo Ferreira after he opened up…

4 min.
the eternal sunshine of the uluwatu single fin classic

It was like a dream. As the sun set on a cosmic day of surfing, the vastly underrated NSW Far North Coast surfing purist, Chippa Wilson, struck a high-line soul arch, on a golden backlit Uluwatu grower, that might have elicited the loudest roar of the contest. It mightn’t have scored a single point, but the image of Chippa was seared into the consciousness of the hundreds packed along the cliff top at Ulus. Like much of the surfing witnessed during the second annual Uluwatu Single Fin Classic, it was an expression of pure joy and beauty—a reminder of surfing as it was first imagined. The fact it was happening at the very wave a 15-year-old Steve Cooney set the gold standard at in the immortal 1972 psychedelic surf epic, Morning…