Surfer August #59.4 2018

We founded Surfer Magazine in 1960 with a mission: to bring our readers a slice of the entire surfing world with each issue. And for over four decades, we've made good on that promise. Every issue of Surfer is packed with spectacular award-winning photos, provocative interviews with the leading pros, and journeys to the coolest undiscovered surf spots. With your order you'll get the Annual Oversized Issue, the Buyer's Guide, and the Hot 100, featuring the world's best new surfers.

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8 Issues

in this issue

3 min.
editor’s note

The first rays of sunlight are just beginning to rise over the dusty rubble of a once bustling coastal city. As the barren landscape warms, an offshore flow kicks into gear, grooming perfect (albeit highly-acidic and plastic-filled) peelers at the adjacent beach break. Our dystopian protagonist, who we’ll call Wasteland Wayne, pulls a yellowed single-fin out of his rust-bucket ‘80s muscle car and starts changing out of his leather jacket and pants, which are entirely too hot and impractical for the post-apocalypse, but everyone else seems to be wearing them, and the only thing worse than getting killed by mutant cannibals is being teased about your lack of modern fashion sense beforehand. After Wayne finishes waxing his board with a nub of Sex Wax that he won in a knife fight…

4 min.
bob mctavish, 74

“You should always be looking for new ways to have fun. I’m not a nostalgic guy. I’ll talk about the past when someone asks, but I’m always looking at what’s next for fun.” You never know what might change the course of your life. When Bruce Brown came through Australia in ’61, I saw “Barefoot Adventure” and “Slippery When Wet” in a theater in Brisbane. Before that I was an office boy for an advertising company and was fascinated by television, so I was going to take a job as a camera person. But then I saw Bruce Brown’s movies and I thought, “No way, I’m going surfing.” That night I decided my future and entire career would be in surfing. I left Brisbane and never went back. It was just…

2 min.
california surfers debut annual “purge” session

CARLSBAD, CA — Yesterday, from Crescent City to San Diego, California, surfers paddled out en masse and proceeded to snake, back-paddle, burn, roast, sneer, snicker, dunk, brawl, cut leashes and smash fins as part of the surf community’s newly enacted “Purge” session. The statewide event encourages surfers to act on their baser instincts, committing the most heinous crimes in surfing, in hopes that they will “get it all out of their system,” according to Purge proponents. “The idea came from a horror movie that came out a few years ago,” says Newport Beach surfer and Purge supporter Mitch Mortenson. “In the movie, all crime is made legal for one night a year and for the rest of the time the crime rate drops to nothing. Some of my friends and I…

4 min.
i dream of surf

The best wave I’ve ever surfed is a novelty right-hander that spins up inside a sandspit-protected harbor in the little Central Coast town where I grew up. At a glance, the setup doesn’t seem like it should be capable of producing surf—it’s a good half-mile or more from the open ocean, tucked way, way inside a boat-filled bay on the edge of a brackish estuary. While it seems impossible for any swell angle to actually reach the break, it’s somehow pumping every single time I’m there. There’s no beach, just the rocks of the harbor, still water, and that absolutely flawless wave. Paddling out, you can’t help but shout to your buddies, “Can you believe this wave is even here? This is insane!” Pulling into little shimmering tubes that rival…

1 min.
magic   7'6" x 21" x 2.5"

“Jeff McCallum ordered this Bertlemann-esque swoosh design,” says master laminator Alex “Superwolf” Villalobos, pictured here holding a board featuring his beautiful handiwork. “That design is on a lot of Larry Bertlemann’s Hawaiian Pro Designs boards. I’m pretty sure back then they would do this with an airbrush, but we did it with fiberglass and resin. It’s more time consuming than doing colored gloss, but it looks cool. I probably could’ve done it in one long-ass day, but between working on other boards and wanting to let the resin cure overnight so it would all come out nice and clean, it took me about four days. I think the original vision was going to be a tan where the hot pink is, but then we realized something bright would look pretty…

3 min.
hell and gone   ‘02 – volume 43, issue 10

A breath of fresh air is not normally how you’d describe a travelogue filled with so many stories of pant-soiling, but “Second Thoughts,” a 2002 article by D.C. Green based on excerpts from Timmy Turner’s feral Indonesian travel journal, was exactly that. Turner and friends Travis Potter and Brett Schwartz spent an untold number of weeks on an unnamed peninsula in West Java. They found shallow reef-pass surf almost too perfect to be real; they also found madness. It was the sort of dirtbag, uncomfortable and downright dangerous trip that once defined surf travel. But at the time, it was an outlier – at least in surf media. In the 1990s and 2000s, surfing’s mainstream celebrated luxury Indonesian surf vacations. Workaday surfers maxed out credit cards, took out second mortgages on…