EXPLOREMY LIBRARY
Sports
Surfer

Surfer Fall 2019

We founded Surfer Magazine in 1960 with a mission: to bring our readers a slice of the entire surfing world with each issue. And for over four decades, we've made good on that promise. Every issue of Surfer is packed with spectacular award-winning photos, provocative interviews with the leading pros, and journeys to the coolest undiscovered surf spots. With your order you'll get the Annual Oversized Issue, the Buyer's Guide, and the Hot 100, featuring the world's best new surfers.

Country:
United States
Language:
English
Publisher:
American Media Operations, Inc
Frequency:
Bimonthly
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8 Issues

in this issue

3 min.
editor’s note

I was talking to my dad, a longtime shaper of surfcraft, last night about a board that I really want to make—a 5'5" performance twin with an E-wing and a slightly concaved deck. It’s a board that’s been floating around the back of my mind since I hopped on a similar sled shaped by Derrick Disney a few months ago and the thing felt carved from psychic foam, intuiting everything I wanted to do on the wave and responding accordingly. “Why don’t you just ask him to shape you one?” said the supplier of half my genes. “That way you don’t have to reinvent the wheel.” I laughed at the fatherly practicality. “Reinventing the wheel” is actually the whole point in this instance, as is often the case when it comes to…

4 min.
sal masekela, 47

The act of surfing is about as musical as physical expression can be in sports. It’s rhythmic, and if you don’t have rhythm with the ocean, you won’t be able to surf—you have to have metronome in some way. I grew up playing music and when I first moved to the West Coast I traded in music for surfing. Surfing became my music. Surfing is something that’s multigenerational. Grandma, grandpa, parents and kids can all go on a surf trip together. There’s something extremely powerful and bonding about the fact that water covers most of the planet and you can do it anywhere and for most of your life. Whereas something like skateboarding, at a certain point you’re going to wave the white flag and just watch from the sidelines. On the…

4 min.
places we're going, places we've been

Every surfer can relate on the subject of dues paid in exchange for waves; greasing a highway patrolman, evacuating a stomach bug, wearing a piece of exposed reef or a brutal, local-hootch-induced hangover, etc. “We’d all paid our dues at various frontiers,” wrote Southern California surfer Kevin Naughton in a dispatch from Africa published over the course of three issues of SURFER Magazine in 1975. Or was it Naughton’s traveling partner, Southern California photographer Craig Peterson who wrote that? The duo famously penned their epic travelogues in the third person, with the narrator attributing quotes to both Naughton and Peterson, so we can’t be sure. In any event, in Part II of Naughton and Peterson’s Africa feature, the line about paying dues serves to paraphrase a campfire conversation between an international gaggle…

1 min.
“the alien”

“It’s longer than my car,” says Dane Gudauskas, recalling how strange his oversized craft looks when strapped to his roof. “I love this board. It’s wild. Donald’s idea was basically, ‘How can you make a 1-foot wave as thrilling as riding a 20-foot wave?’ He doesn’t actually consider this a glider, it’s more of an interpretation of a Hawaiian Olo, so it’s a bit longer and narrower than a traditional glider. The wide point it really far back, maybe 3 feet from the tail block, and then it gets narrower from there—it’s kind of like a tongue depressor shape. There’s a small single fin on it, so there’s not much drag, and when you’re riding a board that long and that narrow, when you find the pocket, it accelerates at…

5 min.
a for effort

It was a stunning day for a paddle: 75 degrees, water as green as the purest emerald, a light easterly breeze carrying the scent of pine, the ocean tossed with a gentle windswell sending ankle-high waves smacking noisily into rock stacks crowded with barking harbor seals—as beautiful as the Golden Gate gets. After about a quarter mile of paddling, I sat up on my midlength, marveled at my good fortune to live in such a place, and wheeled the big board around to paddle back toward the cove where I started. A flash of light on a sliver of untouched beach caught my eye: a clear plastic bag washed up on a beachside boulder, the only thing marring a perfect scene. I tsk-tsked to myself, cursing the careless polluter who’d…

7 min.
a podcast for shred heads, wax heads, kooks and barnies

“It’s just a weird, crude, shambolic shit show where people get to hear these surfing legends peel back their masks and be the core lord degenerate wax heads we all know they are.” For the past half century, surf entertainment has mostly consisted of magazines, films and, more recently, webcasts. But lately, a handful of surf junkies have ventured into the realm of Joe Rogan and Terry Gross, getting in front of a microphone and some recording equipment to wax on about all things surf. Some have flipped, some have flopped, but Ain’t That Swell—the brainchild of surf writer Jed Smith and former Surfing World editor Vaughan Blakey—has become a cult favorite among a sect of surf-stoked masses dubbed the “Swellians”. Keeping surf-stoked individuals engaged in the age of unlimited content and…