Surfing Life

Surfing Life #344 SURFERS

Surfing Life publishes five issues a year, each focussed on one of the five fundamental pillars of the surfing experience - Surfers, Surfboards, Waves, Technique and Travel. The result is a magazine containing quality content which will make a difference to your surfing experience. Essential reading for the active surfer.

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5 Issues

in this issue

2 min.
ed’s words

Surfers, we’re an odd bunch. Misfits of the modern world, driven by an insatiable thirst to ride waves. Some for leisure and some professionally, but all of us for the love of the game. Surfing brings people together and the ocean doesn’t discriminate; the one thing that binds us all, the sport of kings. I’ve just spent 10 days in Southern California and as I write this from my seventh floor hotel room, I can see the iconic Huntington Beach pier cutting a majestic figure into the North Pacific Ocean. Over the last week Surf City USA, as it’s been officially named, played host to one of the biggest junior surfing events the world has ever seen. 44 nations were represented, with over 360 competitors and just under 500 participants when including…

4 min.
up ahead

This issue we chat to surfing royalty, the greatest of all time, Kelly Slater. Aside from his well-publicised and unprecedented eleven world titles, Slater has been at the forefront of change on many fronts. Many of which have not involved putting on a contest rash vest. From changing the way we look at board length and design, to driving the sustainability message through his apparel brand, to shocking the world with one of the best man-made waves we’ve ever seen. At 45 years of age, Kelly Slater is still leading from the front. And while that only scratches the surface of Kelly’s influence, it gives us all the inspiration we need to tap into his creative mind for a glimpse into the future. These are Kelly’s view on five key…

3 min.
the family

QUESTION: WHAT IS YOUR FIRST MEMORY OF BEING A SURFER? BRAD BRICKNELL I remember one of the first days I made it out to the back by myself. I had taught myself to surf, and will never forget the feeling of freedom I felt when I reached the outside. It was like a whole new world opened up to me – the sight of clean and glassy lines slowly rolling towards me, unhindered by bustling white water, solidified the sentiment that was growing inside me. That day, I could call myself a surfer. RAY BISSCHOP My first surf was on a board my uncle had given me from when he was surfing in the '70s. A classic from the Cowley Brothers, a massive single fin on an egg-shaped board with no rocker, just a tiny…

3 min.
photo finish

They say the tour is a marathon, not a sprint. Yet when all is said and done, world titles can be traced back to a single heat win buried deep within the year’s stats. A bookmark to a momentum change, a ratings juggle or even a psychological blow to a campaign. The 2018 WSL Men’s World Championship Tour has been an eye-opener. Never before has the Brazilian dominance on the podium been so evident, with nine out of eleven events, won by Brazilian surfers. Granted, it’s been four surfers who have been the repeat offenders – Toledo has two, Ferreira has three, Medina has two, while Cardosa has one. The shining light for the rest of the world has been our very own, Julian Wilson. The only non-Brazilian to win an event…

4 min.
momentum generation

It’s been nearly 30 years since Kelly Slater, Rob Machado, Shane Dorian, Kalani Robb and Ross Williams all lived under one roof. In one of those weird confluences of fate that happens in surfing from time to time, after leaving her abusive husband, Benji Weatherly’s mum rented a house right on the beach at Pipeline. During the winter of 1989 it would become ground zero for the Momentum Generation revolution. “Sure, we all already knew each other for a few years prior, but this house was the place that allowed us to hang out together for hours upon hours, days upon days, and weeks upon weeks,” explained Williams. “The friendships that were fostered would catapult us as a group into stardom.” A huge cog in the wheel of this success was the…

4 min.
malibu heartbreak

“I first realised that we were in trouble when we saw the smoke coming over from the back of the mountains to cover the beach. We had gone down to the ocean to get away from all the madness, to watch it all, and then we saw the full extent of the fire. It had kinda blown up, this big plume of smoke and the wind started to switch.” World Surf League commentator, Strider Wasilewski is coming to terms with losing his Malibu home after the devastating fires that started on the 8th of November 2018, and decimated over 96,000 acres of land in the process. Officially named the ‘Woolsey fire’ the blaze had been California’s worst, since the Corral fire of 2007. Woolsey went on a rampage, destroying over 435 structures,…