WOOD Magazine March 2018

Every issue includes clear, fully illustrated plans for all types of projects from gifts to furniture, skill-building tips and techniques, and hard-hitting tool reviews. Get WOOD Magazine digital subscription today for helpful videos that bring the pages to life for woodworkers of all skill levels.

Country:
United States
Language:
English
Publisher:
Meredith Operations Corporation
Frequency:
Bimonthly
$10.59(Incl. tax)
$30.28(Incl. tax)
7 Issues

in this issue

1 min
take it outside

When we bought our house many years ago, it was on the edge of our small town in a quiet “no outlet” neighborhood of about 15 houses. Ours was the smallest house in the neighborhood, but a huge selling point for me was 6 acres of empty land (owned by the church at the far end of the property) that backed up to our lot. With no fences around our or the adjacent lots, it was as if that 6 acres was our own outdoor oasis. I even mowed a little “field of dreams,” complete with bases and a removable chain-link backstop, into the corner of the church’s property, where kids would gather for pickup baseball and kickball games. Now, 20 years later, all of the dead-end roads have been extended, most…

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2 min
drink dispenser: get the lead out

For the Bar-top Dispenser project in issue 250 (November 2017), you used brass faucets to dispense liquor. Most of today’s plumbing components originate in China, where scrap brass and other alloys of unknown composition are utilized in their foundries. There is a very real possibility that lead is present in the metal, and any acidic liquid (pH lower than 7), such as alcohol, can leach the lead from the metal. Any plumbing that is in contact with food MUST be constructed entirely of stainless steel, or food-grade plastic, such as nylon. So you could instead build it with stainless-steel components (extremely expensive) or of nylon (a little cheaplooking). —Karl Dick Waterloo, Ont. Dr. Peter Thorne, head of the Department of Occupational and Evironmental Health at the University of Iowa, confirmed that brass faucets sold…

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1 min
sounding board your projects

Send us a photo of your work Want to see your work showcased in WOOD¨ magazine? Send a high-resolution digital photo of your completed project to woodmail@woodmagazine.com.…

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2 min
sounding board your shop

Step into Wayne Wiebe’s shop, and you might think you’ve walked into a woodworker’s heaven. After decades of planning, Wayne was able to include everything he wanted in his dream shop: a 60-amp electric sub-panel, in-floor dustcollection system, plywood flooring, an office area, and a bathroom with shower. With 1,600 square feet, Wayne allowed himself multiple workbenches and worksurfaces. Behind the tablesaw, a bench made of maple and bubinga doubles as an outfeed surface. A traditional-style workbench of walnut and maple was used primarily during the construction of the many cabinets, with a total of 63 drawers, that line the walls of the shop. Custom cabinets or racks near each power tool hold accessories for that tool. Hand tools reside in their own cabinet, protected from damage. And when it’s time…

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1 min
ask wood your questions

A haunch does wonders for a mortise-and-tenon joint Q I’m looking forward to using my new mortiser, and am curious about haunched mortise-and-tenon joints. When should I incorporate a haunch in a mortise-andtenon joint? —Jim Morelli, Boston A Simply put, Jim, a haunch—that extra bit of material atop a tenon—gives a tenoned rail more resistance to twisting. It also adds a bit of extra gluing surface, which never hurts. Any large project assembly, including paneled frames and doors, benefits from haunched tenons, as do frequently stressed joints, such as chair and table legs and rails. To appreciate the contributions of a haunch, it helps to compare a haunched mortise-andtenon joint to similar joints. For example, a typical mortise-and-tenon joint proves plenty strong for many applications. But if you make the tenon extra wide for…

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4 min
shop tips

Zero-in perfect dadoes using a dial indicator Rather than fiddle around with shims, I find it easier to adjust a dado set slightly under the exact dado width required, and make two cutting passes. Or, likewise, use a full-kerf (⅛") blade to cut grooves for ¼" plywood. You just can’t beat the fit control that comes with two passes. To accurately set that second cut without having to make test cuts, I use a dial indicator with magnetic base, (item MMD-100, $28.95 plus shipping from Penn Tool Co., 800-526-4956, penntoolco.com). To start, use calipers to measure the thickness of the material going into the dado or groove. Make the first cut slightly narrow. Then, place the magnetic base/dial indicator on your saw’s fence rail or table as shown, zero it, and adjust…

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