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Cuisine et Vin
Food Arts

Food Arts Oct-13

Food Arts provides restaurant and hotel professionals with exceptional recipes, inspiring presentation techniques, chef comings and goings, restaurant openings and closing, business building tips, and profiles of cutting-edge innovators who are changing the full-service industry.

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United States
M Shanken Communications
Back issue only
5,18 €(TVA Incluse)

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3 min.
postnational cuisines?

In this issue we focus on Europe, and I have just returned from France, which got me thinking about the cuisine long considered the world’s greatest, and how it stands up today. The conclusion I came to is that, as in politics, the old generalizations no longer hold. Today, on a certain level, the food of each chef is so grandly idiosyncratic that it reflects the era and its trends, rather than the country of origin and its tradition. Chefs often play fast and loose with historic dictates rather than slavishly obeying them. To make my point, I would like to compare the dinners I had recently at the Michelin two-star restaurant, Le Castellas in Collias, deep in the interior of southern France, with Betony, which recently received three stars in…

2 min.

LISA ABEND “When we were at the fishmongers’ stall at the Ventimiglia market, Mauro Colagreco noticed me eyeing the baby eels. ‘You like those?’ he asked. I told him I loved them,” recalls Lisa Abend, author of “The Transcontinentalist” (page 44) and the Spain correspondent for Time magazine. “So I was quite delighted to see them a few hours later, placed head to tail in a gorgeous spiral, on my lunch plate. Before that, I had only ever eaten baby eels in Spain, where they are treated as a sort of self-contained, garlic-laden spaghetti with clam sauce, so his dish—tasting so cleanly of the sweet eel, and so reflective of Mauro’s style of cooking—came as a revelation.” Abend’s first book The Sorcerer’s Apprentices: A Season in the Kitchen at Ferran…

2 min.
kitchen “coffee”

Cleveland—Ah, the oft-underappreciated and much-burdened line cook. While paying dues in sweat equity—often with naught but personal pride in one’s work and the golden carrot of knowledge and promotion—the disparity in wages between front-and back-of-the-house continues to gnaw. Having been there/felt that, and knowing that the quotidian carrot usually takes the shape of a can of beer, chef Jonathan Sawyer gave his unique nod of appreciation to the staff when he took on the top post as chef/owner of Greenhouse Tavern in 2008. “The idea was inspired from Paul Kahan, at trailblazing Publican,” says Sawyer, of his time working under the Chicago–based chef. “The name came from when another chef, Brian Goodman, and I would have our post–service wine in coffee mugs.” And so, a year after Sawyer opened the Tavern, out…

2 min.
snap! crackle! boom!

New York City—On a balmy Saturday morning in mid-August, ear-piercing booms permeate the air in Manhattan’s Foley Square, site of both Federal and New York State courthouses. Terrorist attack? No, it’s kitchen science wizard David Arnold whacking a 2,300-pound cannon-like machine that spews out puffed rice. The contraption is the centerpiece of the first popup exhibit of MOFAD (www.mofad.org), the fledgling Museum of Food and Drink that Arnold founded in 2005. Titled “The Puffing Gun and the Rise of Cereal,” the display is one of a series of rotating interactive exhibitions that will examine the vital role of food in human culture. Arnold stands atop the platform of a glass-paneled truck pouring grains of rice or corn kernels and water into the machine, a custom-made replica of the model used by…

1 min.
floating island

Singapore—It’s feliz cumpleanos—or should that be shengrikuaile—to Catalunya Singapore, which celebrated its first anniversary in August as perhaps the city’s most dramatic restaurant design, even for that innovation-hungry island metropolis. A concept of New York design firm AvroKO (Public, New York City; Social House, Las Vegas; Edge, Miami), Catalunya is a glass dome floating outside The Fullerton Heritage complex, its floor-to-ceiling windows giving diners a 360 degree view of Marina Bay. The restaurant—staffed by kitchen alumni from elBulli, Santi, and Drolma, among others—marry old and new Spanish cuisine, with patatas bravas and suckling pig served alongside modernist favorites like “spherical olives.”…

1 min.
perfect pairing

THE DRINK Tariff—Jamón Ibérico–infused gin, acorn-and apricot-infused tonic, orange, cava, pineapple garnish THE DISH Pluma—Ibérico de bellota pork shoulder loin with honey/chile glaze (Find the recipes on FoodArts.com.) THE PLACE Coqueta, San Francisco THE PEOPLE chef/owner Michael Chiarello; chef de cuisine Ryan McIlwraith, bar man Joe Cleveland THE STORY Not only is the Gin & Tonic matched to the pork roast, the pig is literally in the drink. “We take the 5J bones and pieces you can’t turn into something but that have extraordinary flavor and present them in an interesting way as an infusion in the gin,” explains Chiarello. “And we make a tonic infused with acorns because the Ibérico pigs feed on wild acorns. But,” he admits, “we use Napa Valley acorns.” The drink is part of the restaurant’s wildly popular Gin…