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Spring-Summer 2020

Showdetails is the leader magazine that zooms in on the runway, providing the very first look at the details that ‘make difference’ in the women’s and men’s clothing and accessories collections. Lines, materials, fabrics, prints, accessories, lace, embroidery, passementerie, cuts buttons, zips, appliqués and every details from the looks fresh off the runway – seen up close with the best quality available on the market!!!.

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2 min.
milano+paris+london+firenze+new york men collections s/s 2020

Summer 2020, the first of the new decade. Menswear is looking ahead to it with an idea of masculinity that is tender and sensual, romantic and languid, leaving aside formality and aggression in favour of an ease that affects the attitude and the shapes of the clothes. A certain fluid delicacy had already been on show in recent seasons but there was still a sense of rigidity that produced structure, robustness and lots of streetwear, as if that was all that menswear could come up with. Now, however, there is a profound sense of liberation and lightness, men can be sensitive and sustainable in their ethical choice of materials and fabrications. Adorable rogues are nostalgic for eras they never experienced, like the early ’70s which are still a source of…

2 min.

It’s no surprise that various designers drew inspiration from the troubled atmosphere of Fassbinder’s film ‘Querelle’, adapted from Jean Genet’s novel ‘Querelle de Brest’ about a handsome sailor who arrives at the port of Brest and unleashes dark passions. There is all the hedonism of the years gone by in this attractive man that Dries Van Noten revives teaming low-necked vests, impalpable shirts open over a bare chest and shorts sometimes worn with a chain, with tailored pieces and light trench coats decorated with bold floral, animal or camouflage prints of explosive sensuality. Magliano drew on a series of inspirations, ranging from ancient Greece to the ’80s gay scene to punk, alternating or combining structured and fluid shapes in broad-shouldered outerwear and outfits, loose shirts and T-shirts, soft trousers and shorts with…

2 min.

If you were considering the issue purely in trend terms, you could say the sea is the focus for the new decade. But if your focus is a little more engaged, then it’s a good thing the seas and oceans are under the spotlight so that they can be better protected, given our millennia-long connection to these natural wonders. So it’s good to know that Prada will soon start using recycled nylon, a fibre which has lately come back in its collections as in the latest one which highlights the childhood spirit. With a youthful, holiday vibe, the Prada man wore loose vests and bermuda shorts, oversize shirts and T-shirts with vintage prints and colour-blocked windbreakers. Sébastien Meunier for Ann Demeulemeester also drew on Querelle as well as the port of Antwerp…

2 min.

Layering is not just for winter. Summer simply uses lighter layers, perhaps in mesh or nylon, which were seen in many of the latest shows, adding a technical touch to the looks. Take Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch’s latest collection for Les Hommes, dedicated to their homeland, Belgium, and particularly Antwerp. Mixing cycling and techno music references, sporty pieces like cycling shorts were teamed with formal shirt and tie, as well as k-ways, tight knits with zipped neck and classic blazers with reworked proportions. Antwerp was also the reference for Raf Simons who concluded his American adventure with his home town tribute collection. It was United States versus Europe, and especially Simons against the lobbyists, as expressed by statements such as ‘Stone(e)d America’ and ‘My Own Private Antwerp’. His young men seemed…

2 min.
milano+paris+london+firenze+new york collezioni uomo p/e 2020

Estate 2020, la prima bella stagione del nuovo decennio; l’uomo vi si affaccia portando con sé un’idea di mascolinità tenera e insieme sensuale, romantica e languida, che lascia da parte formalismi e aggressività per una rilassatezza che coinvolge, oltre all’attitudine, anche le forme. In realtà, una certa fluida delicatezza cominciava a farsi strada già nelle stagioni scorse ma persisteva ancora un senso di rigidità che prediligeva struttura, robustezza e uno streetwear marcato, come se non esistesse altro nel guardaroba maschile. Ora, invece, c’è un profondo senso di liberazione e di leggerezza, ci sono uomini sensibili e sostenibili, anche nelle scelte etiche di materiali e lavorazioni, magari un po’ canaglie ma adorabili e nostalgici di epoche non vissute, come i primi anni ’70, ancora ricchi di fascino e d’ispirazione. Amanti del…

2 min.

Non è un caso che diversi designer abbiano preso come ispirazione le atmosfere torbide della pellicola di Fassbinder ‘Querelle de Brest’, tratta dal romanzo omonimo di Jean Genet: Querelle, aitante marinaio, che sbarca nel porto di Brest scatenando fosche passioni. C’è tutto l’edonismo degli anni che furono in questo bel ragazzo venuto dal mare che Dries Van Noten riprende per le sue canotte scollate, le camicie impalpabili aperte sul petto nudo, gli shorts portati anche con catena, cui il designer abbina pezzi sartoriali e leggeri trench decorati da vivide stampe floreali, animalier o camouflage, esplosive nella loro sensualità. Una serie di ispirazioni che vanno dall’antica Grecia alla scena omosessuale anni ’80 al punk, per lo stile di Magliano, che alterna o fa convivere struttura e fluidità in capospalla e completi dalle…