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Voyages et Plein air
Travel + Leisure

Travel + Leisure October 2019

TRAVEL + LEISURE™ is an indispensable guide to where to stay, what to eat, and what to do around the globe. Every month, TRAVEL + LEISURE™ puts easy trip ideas, itineraries, and insider information right at your fingertips. Get advice from our travel experts and view the magazine's award-winning photography. The digital edition of TRAVEL + LEISURE™ has all the tools you need to take you where you want to go.

Pays:
United States
Langue:
English
Éditeur:
Meredith Corporation
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2 min.
letter from the editor

WHEN YOU GROW UP in the Northeast, fall is a part of your DNA. I swear there’s a change and a charge in the air come the Tuesday after Labor Day: the lazy days of summer are behind you, the temperature begins to dip, and everyone seems to wake up. They’ve broken away from the beach houses and kids’ summer camps and weekend routines, and are ready for the new—people, places, and things. That thrill of possibility, I feel, makes fall one of the best times of the year to travel. In this issue, several destinations tick all the boxes for a perfect fall getaway. Claire Dederer checks out Vancouver, a city long famous for its immaculate parks and waterfront—and now a cutting-edge arts and dining destination. Ray Isle eats and…

3 min.
monaco’s crown jewel

FROM THE GET-GO, Monaco’s Hôtel de Paris was primed for excellence. The property’s original owner, a French entrepreneur named François Blanc, declared that “it must surpass everything created up to now.” When it opened in 1864 on Monte Carlo’s Place du Casino, it instantly became the town’s hub. Over the years, visitors included everyone from Marlene Dietrich to Winston Churchill, who brought his pet parrot. But lately, the sheen had begun to wear off—the last full-scale renovation was in 1909. The recent $300 million revamp took four years and included the demolition and reconstruction of three wings—during which, remarkably, the hotel didn’t close. It now features a wellness center and an outdoor terrace, larger rooms with new parquet flooring and gleaming white-marble bathrooms, wall moldings and carpet patterns created to original…

2 min.
under-the-radar fall food trail in quebec

MORNING Wake up at the Auberge Saint-Antoine (saint-antoine.com; doubles from $205), a beloved 95-room Relais & Châteaux property in Quebec City, and grab your designated driver for a spin round the island. Pick up some jams at Confiturerie Tigidou (tigidou.ca), owned by husband-and-wife team Vincent Paris and Catherine Trudel. They produce nearly 80,000 jars of preserves per year in combinations such as strawberry-mint, raspberry-coriander, and blueberry-rosemary, many made with fruit they grow themselves. Refuel with pastries at the darling La Boulange (laboulange.ca), set in a Second Empire–style building across from an equally charming church. For a pint and a full lunch, drive on to Microbrasserie de l’Île d’Orléans (microorleans.com) and the brewery’s on-site alehouse, Pub Le Mitan (entrées $10–$12). Try the Suzanne Marceau, an amber beer with a hint of smoke and…

1 min.
costume drama

HAIR BY DORA ROBERTI AT CLOSEUP MILANO. MAKEUP BY ANDREA COSTA AT CLOSEUP MILANO. MODELS: LAVINA AT NEXT AND MAGDALENO AT I LOVE MODELS…

2 min.
the saviors of safari cuisine

JACKSON MUTUKU, 32 andBeyond Bateleur Camp, Masai Mara, Kenya Kenya’s heritage is woven into Mutuku’s farm-to-table menus: spiced sweet-potato soup might be followed by slow-braised lamb with garden-pea chermoula or a roti-wrapped fish curry. The chef’s workshops on how to bake bread or make Swahili irio—a medley of corn, beans, potatoes, and pumpkin leaves—let guests bring home something far better than anything they’d find in a gift shop. and beyond.com; from $1,320 per person, all-inclusive. THULANI SILINDA, 33 Kubili House, Thornybush Private Game Reserve, South Africa Silinda spent seven years with Singita before taking over the kitchen at Kubili House, an exclusive-use lodge where she serves everything from ayurveda-influenced dishes to platters of vegetables with a Middle Eastern spin. Her favorite part of the job? When guests ask for her specialties, like beet tartine or…

2 min.
breaking the mold

OAXACA IS FAMOUS for its pottery, and the clay comes in nearly infinite variations—each differing slightly according to the terroir and microclimate where it is found. But one, a prized red clay from the small town of Santa María Atzompa, just outside Oaxaca City, is said to be earned by birthright, used only by those living on the lands from which it is sourced. This is the medium of the artist Francisco Martínez Alarzón, whose ceramics workshop, Pitao Copycha (951-246-8480) has gained international acclaim and a devoted following among restaurateurs. (Instagram fans include Joshua McFadden, chef of Ava Gene’s, in Portland, Oregon, and Rosio Sanchez, chef of Hija de Sanchez, in Copenhagen.) “Whatever is in that earth, it makes amazing stuff,” says T. J. Steele, chef at the Michelin-starred Oaxacan restaurant…