The Way We Grilled
LAST SUMMER, back when you would do things like have people over to your house, my wife got the idea that we should throw a big Fourth of July party. Invite anyone and everyone who happened to be around. We pushed a couple of long tables together. We hung up string lights and, sure, I may have broken a few while balancing on a painter’s ladder. We threw a tablecloth over a rickety, rusty side table and deemed it our spritz station, stocking it with Aperol and Prosecco and seltzer and whatever other bottles people rolled up with. When friends started arriving at 6 p.m., it was still blazingly hot out. I always forget just how late the sun sets in early July. We wore sunglasses, not to look cool, but because…