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Wallpaper March 2021

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United Kingdom
Future Publishing Ltd
€ 7,41(Incl. btw)
€ 88,91(Incl. btw)
12 Edities

in deze editie

1 min
bowl cuts

We’re going back to basics with the simplest of all snacks: bread and butter. Whipped to a soft texture, and flavoured with coriander and lime, smoked paprika, and anchovy, this trio of airy butters is ready for spreading on sliced rye bread, which we’re serving, with radishes, in Michael Schoner’s powder-coated aluminium ‘Worm Vorm’ bowls. The Rotterdam-based Schoner trained and practised as an engineer and architect before moving on to designing objects, exploring sleek compositions of metal shapes, from chairs and lamps to the smaller-scale bowls. These pieces are intended to be 3D interpretations of bold drawings, experiments that start with cutting shapes out of cardboard before reproducing them in collaboration with a specialist laser-cutting company. The final steps are made by hand in Schoner’s studio, a ‘low-tech phase’, as…

2 min
staying power

Welcome to our masterclass in minimalism. Top of our aesthetic agenda? The ultimate womenswear pieces for achieving wardrobe precision. Right now, we are not in need of a plethora of outfits but a capsule offering of hard-working, all-weather hits, in a host of timeless tones. We suggest classic items with a futuristic finesse, pieces rendered in glossy and tactile fabrications. Take Hermès’ apron dress, which is embroidered in a graphic grid of horn and glossy lambskin – adornment with real architectural appeal. Tactility is the essential ambition of the French luxury maison’s womenswear creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, given how dispiritingly hands-off and touch sensitive we have become. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ dual design debut also has minimalist merit, offering a celebration of Prada’s signature nylon, seen in shoes and…

1 min
still life

Model: Mamadou Lo at Elite Paris. Casting: Svea Casting. Grooming: Rimi Ura at Walter Schupfer using Oribe. Set design: Cédric-Cyril Colonges at Saint Germain. Photography assistant: Tanguy Ginter. Digital operator: Pedro Teles. Fashion assistant: Stephanie Carrié. Set design assistant: Arturo Astorino. Local production: Quadriga Paris…

3 min
hometown glory

A rare bricks-and-mortar retail launch in an era of online shopping, Les Six, located in Tottori Prefecture, in south-west Japan, is the latest brainchild of fashion designer Ryohei Kawanishi. It is housed in twin Taisho-era warehouses: one offers limited-edition menswear items and unisex jewellery, under the Les Six label, and restored Mingei furniture and lighting by Shoya Yoshida, a champion of the folk craft movement; the other features a library stocked with art books and magazines from Kawanishi’s personal collection. It is a concept store harbouring an open workshop, where the designer sometimes invites local grandmothers to choose buttons for a garment. The designer rejects the industrialised term ‘lifestyle’ and instead explains that his new creative hub is grounded in the art of i-shoku-ju, an ancestral Japanese term for ‘wear-live-eat’. Kawanishi,…

1 min
charles gaines’ southern-style candied yams

A groundbreaking conceptualist and educator, American artist Charles Gaines explores how art can conform to systems, and work against them. Employing rules-based processes, he generates grid-like compositions, often involving the structures of trees, faces, music and language. Gaines, who was born in Charleston, South Carolina, attributes his detailed formula for candied yams to his mother, Amelia. ‘It’s traditional Southern-style, but the difference is the use of milk, which is not usual in a Southern yam recipe.’ For Gaines’ recipe, and a full interview with the artist in our At Home With series, visit Wallpaper.com…

4 min
fresh focus

When it comes to articulating ideas of identity, the fashion world has traditionally drawn from external and historical sources to create evocative visions. As well as that may be, a new wave of young, emerging designers are instead looking inwards and expressing their sense of self in ways rarely seen before. In Johannesburg, designer Thebe Magugu has used his collections to preserve and share South African culture. In London, British designer Supriya Lele mines her Indian heritage to create universally flattering silhouettes, while the rising label Chopova Lowena seeks out Bulgarian deadstock fabrics to create its signature folkloric skirts. Drawing on their individual heritage to champion diversity, these designers widen the fashion lens in ways worth applauding. SUPRIYA LELE LONDON As distinct as traditional Indian dressing and 1990s minimalism may seem, these opposing…