Bon Appetit February 2023

Q: I need to breathe some life into my winter vegetable game. What would you suggest? I can’t help but be inspired by the fruits and vegetables of summer but this time of year I just fall back on a few staples. Don’t get me wrong, I love roasting carrots and cauliflower and transforming them into soups—but not everyone in my household loves soup as much as I do. I’m here for any inspiration you can offer. Chris Morocco, food director, advises: I hear you—winter vegetables take a bit more coaxing to unlock their charms. That’s why, in this issue, we go all in on ways to get them to shine. I’d suggest figuring out what it would take to drive your winter vegetables off a cliff of flavor. Then back…

VINEGAR 101 The word vinegar is derived from the Old French vyn egre, meaning “sour wine”—a good hint at how this tangy substance is made. Vinegar is what happens when microorganisms called acetobacter convert ethanol (a.k.a. alcohol) into sour acetic acid. Any alcoholic liquid—be it wine, cider, beer, sake, or distilled spirit—can be made into vinegar or will spontaneously transform into it when exposed to oxygen and left to its own devices. (Acetobacter are in the air we breathe!) Which is to say there are as many types of vinegar in the world as there are types of booze, each with its own unique and magical flavor profile. PUCKER UPGRADE The familiar lineup of vinegars available at most supermarkets—wine, apple cider, rice, malt—have consistency and reliability going for them. But much in the…

WARM SEVEN-LAYER SKILLET DIP 8 SERVINGS The thrill of gathering for a big sports game demands more than just congealed dips from the supermarket. This version of seven-layer dip combines two homemade elements—rich, creamy refried beans and an unctuous melty cheese sauce—with a handful of simple store-bought garnishes. The queso stays fluid at room temperature for a good while so you can spend your time screaming at the television rather than racing to eat before it solidifies. Don’t swap out the American cheese for anything fancy since it quite literally holds the creamy texture of the sauce intact. If your salsa is chunky but watery, drain it in a fine-mesh sieve first to save the dip from turning soupy. BEANS 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces1 large onion, finely chopped6 garlic cloves, finely…

THE TECHNIQUE Inspired by chefs in Europe transforming beets and potatoes into roulades, rolled-up preparations usually reserved for meat or pastry, Dunlap uses the technique on local produce: celery root, abundant in Oregon this time of year, paired with Brae-burn apples for added sweetness. Both are run through a vegetable sheet cutter, which slices them into 2.5-foot-long strips about the width of lasagna noodles. Dunlap then tightly coils the sheets and secures the pinwheel with twine. “You want it to be exactly the shape of a large marshmallow,” Dunlap says. THE TWO-PART COOKING PROCESS The spirals are cooked two ways. First, they’re braised in a vegetable broth powered by garlic, thyme, and mirepoix (celery, carrot, onion) for about 30 minutes until al dente. Then they’re hard-seared to order, which caramelizes the produce, making…

On busy weeknights I like to let my crisper drawer be my guide, making a dinner plan by first taking stock of what produce I have on hand. No matter what’s hiding in my fridge or what I’m craving on a given day, I know vegetables can carry me to the finish line: Heartier options like mushrooms or cauliflower stand in for animal protein; herbs on their last legs become a vibrant blender sauce; even a miscellaneous apple can be transformed into a refreshing side salad. Tackle one of these four vegetable-driven recipes tonight after taking inventory of your fridge—I promise you won’t miss the meat.…

4 SERVINGS 3 limes, divided2 medium jalapeños, stems removed5 garlic cloves2 cups (packed) cilantro leaves with tender stems, plus more for serving3 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided½ cup sour cream2 Tbsp. mayonnaise1½ cups jasmine or other long-grain rice6 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided1½ tsp. ground cumin, divided1½ lb. mixed mushrooms (such as oyster, shiitake, maitake and/or crimini), torn into various sizes1 tsp. paprika Freshly ground pepper 1. Cut 1 lime in half; squeeze juice into a blender. Add jalapeños, garlic, 2 cups cilantro, ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and ½ cup water and blend until smooth. Transfer 2 Tbsp. cilantro purée to a small bowl; set aside. 2. Place 3 Tbsp. cilantro purée in a medium bowl; finely grate in zest of 1 lime.…