Bon Appetit September 2022

THIS IS TECHNICALLY OUR ODE TO LATE SUMMER INTO FALL and it might as well be called the comfort issue. We’re leaning in on foods that evoke coziness and joy, particularly pasta, pizza, and all that colorful bounty still at the farmers markets. Think dark jewel-toned blackberries, plums, and eggplants on one end of the spectrum and bright zucchini, tomatoes, and peppers on the other. Pasta is a perennial favorite among our readers, so we turned to Shilpa Uskokovic in our test kitchen to develop dishes that will inspire dinner party menus and midweek family suppers (“Pasta Makes Perfect,” page 58). We know most people already have their own tried-and-true noodle recipes, but I promise Shilpa’s are worth giving a spin. Take the Fresh Pasta With Buttered Tomatoes; the sauce…

When, like seemingly everyone else, I started making sourdough a couple of years ago, I used my classic Le Creuset Dutch oven as a vessel for my boules. Preheated in a 500-degree oven, the cast iron gets rip-roaring hot and retains heat beautifully, helping my loaves develop a deeply bronzed crust. The only problem? Transferring my dough to said rip-roaring hot Dutch oven without sustaining second-degree burns. Le Creuset’s new bread oven solves that problem: Instead of lowering a ball of dough into a high-sided preheated pot, I flip it onto the flat base and cover with the dome. It’s all the benefits of a cast-iron Dutch oven without the danger.…

DEEP-FRYING IS NOT A WEEKNIGHT ACTIVITY, but shallow-frying—think of it as searing but with an extra glug or two of oil—is absolutely achievable on a Wednesday. Put the technique to work by making cutlets, those thin pieces of protein or vegetables that crisp up on the outside thanks to a layer of breading. In these four recipes, coating and frying is the hardest part; we pair chicken, pork chops, tender white fish, and creamy eggplant with no-cook slaws and salads so you spend less time in the kitchen and more time marveling at your perfectly golden brown results. Crispy Pork Cutlets With Kimchi Slaw Here a jar of kimchi does double duty. Finely chopped, it adds heft and crunch to a cabbage slaw, while a drizzle of the fermenting liquid is used…

Montreal ALL ROADS LEAD TO MONTREAL FOR ME. After working as the chef de cuisine at the iconic Quebecois restaurant Au Pied de Cochon, I spent five years in New York as the chef of Fedora and Chez Sardine, then ultimately returned home to open Marconi with my wife, Molly Superfine-Rivera, in 2016. We wanted to create the perfect neighborhood spot in Little Italy, our corner of Montreal, so we traversed the town to taste what was happening in other parts of the city. We were (and still are) drawn to welcoming, warm spaces with highly personal menus that reflect family kitchens, local growers and producers, and Quebec’s culinary roots. The spots we return to again and again are in areas that don’t often appear in guide books, which is also…

The Inspiration Growing up in Malaysia, chefs Seleste Tan and Mogan Anthony ate bite-size sweets called kuih. One in particular, the Malaysian Chinese angku kuih, was prized (and consumed) during special occasions due to its tortoise shape, a symbol of longevity in Chinese tradition. Now it’s an everyday snack in Malaysia, and the couple sells it every weekend at their East Village shop. The Glutinous Rice Dough “It has a clay-like texture,” Anthony explains. “Unlike traditional pastry, which bounces back when you press into it, this holds an imprint.” The glutinous rice flour dough incorporates pandan juice, which imparts a grassy, vanilla-like flavor, and beet or red rice powder for that red hue, which represents prosperity in Chinese culture. The dough is then wrapped around the filling, fitted into the mold, and steamed…

DESIGNERS Jeremiah Brent and Nate Berkus HOME BASE New York City FAMILY TRADITION Jeremiah’s chocolate chip cookies RENOVATION MANTRA “Utilize what’s already there.” Setting the Stage “The kitchen is the epicenter of memory making,” Berkus notes. “We try to bring a narrative so it doesn’t feel antiseptic.” That means accessorizing with pieces associated with other rooms, like table lamps, framed photos, or groupings of pottery. “Every horizontal surface is a chance to personalize a space,” Brent says. “We tuck away appliances and give that square footage to something pretty.” Mornings at Chez Berkus Brent typically begin with dance parties around the island—or atop. At their previous home in L.A. (pictured), the dads could keep an eye on the action from the stove thanks to a serendipitously placed Peruvian mirror above the range. “That was a beautiful accident,” Berkus says. Scrappy…