Climbing December/January 2019

Climbing offers the entire climbing world: sport, trad, bouldering, walls, ice, alpine and mountains. In each issue we offer the richest stories on the vertical world you'll ever read, with award-winning photography. Climbing has earned its moniker as the journal of record for climbers worldwide.

United States
Pocket Outdoor Media, LLC
US$ 5,99

nesta edição

4 minutos
now and then

Twenty-eight years ago, Lee Sheftel and I traveled from New Mexico to Hueco Tanks, Texas. Lee, at 44, was a generation older, but we made a good team, both being cynical and antiauthoritarian, with a penchant for enduro climbing. I’m older now than Lee was then, and I can only imagine being on the road with me at 19—my junkshow diet of ramen, Twizzlers, and off-brand cookies, my leaky tent, fuzzy Coleman sleeping bag, and collect calls to my parents to spray about “five-thirteens.” Lee was a patient man. That October–November 1990, the park was empty save a few route climbers on the Front Side, some wandering boulderers, and a traveling pack of Swiss. Lee and I mostly climbed routes, like When Legends Die (pictured) on West Mountain. For this image,…

1 minutos

THE MYSTERY PILOT In response to the Ed Note photo, No. 363: The pilot with Mugs Stump was Jay Hudson, Cliff Hudson’s son. He and Cliff flew Jim Donini and me into Mt. Hunter in 1985 when we did the Diamond Arête. Mugs and Jamie Logan (then Jim) also helped rescue my climbing partner on my first attempt on Isis in 1979. Ken Currens broke his femur in a 250-foot leader fall. Mugs and Logan put aside their attempt on the East Face of the Moose’s Tooth and helped me rescue Ken. JACK TACKLE, VIA EMAIL COME TOGETHER FOR ACCESS Thank you for highlighting the wonderful work done by the Thacher Climbing Coalition [] along with the successes the Access Fund has had with their grassroots initiatives with Local Climbing Organizations (LCOs). It is…

1 minutos
rock art

“We get really excited about all the imperfections on boulders and cliffs because these are what we’re climbing on—they’re what make each route so great and also so singularly unique,” says Robin Puro, 44, a climber, ceramic artist, and CFO of House of Who, Inc, a Bay Area branding agency. Using kintsugi, the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery by placing gold lacquer in the cracks, Puro emphasizes the imperfections in her work. A climber of 22 years, Puro started bouldering in Hueco Tanks in 1997, and has climbed extensively in Rocky Mountain National Park and the Colorado alpine, on the cracks of Yosemite, on the boulders of Font, and now near her home in her native New Mexico. “I’m getting to see my home state through a whole new…

1 minutos
heinous climber feet

New winter boots used on a warm glacial ascent of Mount Shasta (Hotlum-Bolam Ridge) wrecked my feet—but I still made it. BEN BOYER I quit the foot binding 25 years ago. Now, I wear street-sized shoes when I’m not climbing in approach shoes or barefoot. CHRISTOPHER SPATZ These are the feet of aid lord Hayden Robinson, 21, who made three separate one-day ascents of El Cap this summer. JACOB LIVINGSTON Lang Van Dommelen’s feet after the approach to the Arrigetch with a 120-pound pack to climb new routes. GUS BARBER After a winter tour up the Triglav, my “third ankle” came out. MIHAEL NIKOLIĆ After six hours at an endurance comp, and being on their second resole, my shoes still turned my feet blue. JOHN OLIVER The sandstone and the shoes conspired to burn red into my feet during a weekend in…

1 minutos
the big question

How do your parents feel about your climbing?* 53% THEY’RE CONVINCED I’M GOING TO DIE EVERY TIME I HEAD INTO THE HILLS. 7% THEY INTRODUCED ME TO THE SPORT, AND NOW ASK ME TO HANG THE DRAWS FOR THEM. 35% THEY HAVE NO CLUE WHY I WEAR A MATTRESS ON MY BACK AND CARRY LAUNDRY LINES IN MY BACKPACK, BUT THEY’RE GLAD I’M HAVING FUN. 5% THEY’RE TIRED OF “SPONSORING” ME … *Based on 98 responses My parents were climbers in the early 1970s so they get it, but it took awhile before they gave in and accepted that this obsession was going to become my life. Now, after that initial resistance, I think they’re proud of all the places that climbing has taken me. DAVE ALLFREY Generally, I think they love that I do it. I know they worry a bit…

1 minutos
mini reviews

• 40 KNOTS AND HOW TO TIE THEM Lucy Davidson’s beautifully crafted book has step-by-step instructions on how to tie 40 knots. Four sections cover classic knots, camping knots, climbing knots, and maritime knots, with 7 projects. Get tangled up in this book and, as Davidson writes, “… you’ll find yourself improvising in no time, surprising yourself with what your imagination can unlock with just a humble knot.” £10, • AS ABOVE, SO BELOW: A CLIMBING STORY Chris Kalman’s haunting novel begins with an aging climber, Dave, muddling through life—work, kids, marriage. But when he and his son, Aiden, go to Patagonia, the narrative quickly dives deeper to pose thought-provoking questions about the sport. Kalman’s Hemmingway-esque style moves the plot along. As he writes of Dave, “He moved methodically. There was no…