Climbing July 2017

Climbing offers the entire climbing world: sport, trad, bouldering, walls, ice, alpine and mountains. In each issue we offer the richest stories on the vertical world you'll ever read, with award-winning photography. Climbing has earned its moniker as the journal of record for climbers worldwide.

País:
United States
Língua:
English
Editora:
Pocket Outdoor Media, LLC
Periodicidade:
One-off
US$ 5,99

nesta edição

2 minutos
flash

CLIMBER Nina Caprez ROUTE To Bolt or Not to Be (5.14a) FA Jean-Baptiste Tribout, 1986 LOCATION Dihedrals, Smith Rock State Park, Oregon For this March 2017 shot of Swiss climber Nina Caprez on America’s first 5.14, To Bolt or Not to Be, Smith Rock local and photographer Mikey Schaefer found a new angle. “I always wanted to shoot the climb, but the top-down, shallow depth of field has been done so much,” Schaefer says. His unique vantage came by rapping from the top of the Dihedrals then pulling himself away from the wall using a second line anchored to a boulder down the hill . By hanging in space diagonally from the climb, he could capture both the 135-foot crimptastic super-slab and the wild volcanic landscape. He then stitched together a few photos to include the Smith Rock…

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3 minutos
hero shot

IN THE LATE 1980s, when I was a junior in high school in Albuquerque, New Mexico, I climbed the Knife Edge, a walkway in the sky along the spine of the Sandia Mountains’ largest formation, the 1,000- foot Shield. A few other members of the New Mexico Mountain Club and I scrambled up the rough pink granite, weaving around the stunted piñon trees and tiny barrel cactus that grew from the rock. The route would mark my sad first attempt at climbing photography. At the crux, a series of 5.4 moves along a notch called the “W,” I took photos of our trip leader, Bob, traversing over the void. Above the W, I passed the camera to a teammate and asked him to shoot photos of me. Late-afternooon sun slanted in,…

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4 minutos
unsolicited beta

GEAR "GUIDE" This year’s Gear Guide [no. 352]—and those in years past—read like sponsored content. There is not a single bad review, and barely a neutral one. Does Climbing mean to tell me that there wasn’t one piece of subpar gear tested? On top of that, the reviews pandered to the companies that make the gear. Shoes that are both comfortable for all-day use but performance enough for redpoints, or aggressive and sensitive on steeps while maintaining stiffness and edging for vert? Belay devices so revolutionary that one tester couldn’t imagine going back to his old device? I understand that testers are probably dirtbags just trying to score free gear and curry favor within manufacturer circles, but I think it would behoove our community to have honest, unbiased testing. —Ryan Murray, via…

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1 minutos
#nightclimbing

Climbing Black Crack (5.9+) at Annapolis Rock, Maryland. —MATTHEW HARDEN Keith Nadeau climbing the perfectly named Midnight in a Perfect World (V9) on a great night of climbing. —BRIAN LEWIS When the Las Vegas sun gets too hot, Ethan Pringle turns to the night and his headlamp to climb. Here he is on the infamous The Nest (V15) in Red Rock. —JOE SEGRETI Corey Fitzgerald runs night laps at the Flume Gorge, New Hampshire. —BRENT DOSCHER We like to get out after work with headlamps—or without when we forget them—to Boulder Natural in Pawtuckaway State Park, New Hampshire. —KELLEN BUSBY Here’s Grand Canyon (5.12c), one of the best routes in Devil’s Gorge, North Wales, all lit up. —INGIO ATKIN To beat the heat last August in Squamish meant a lot of nighttime headlamp sessions. Here’s Tasha Chang running laps at the Grand…

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3 minutos
3-d printing: the future of climbing holds?

FORCE CLIMBING, a Vancouver-based climbing-hold-manufacturing company, is ditching traditional hand-sculpting of holds in favor of 3-D printing. With advanced laser scanning and 3-D printing technology, Force is creating a bank of innovative holds featuring a range of unique textures. Many of the designs are scanned directly from classic outdoor climbs, allowing for replication of rock on plastic. This digital innovation led Force to partner with the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) in the holds category, earning the company a spot on the world stage of competition climbing. Force Climbing, conceived in 2012, will play a role in planning the Olympics through close work with the IFSC’s route setters and event organizers. The company hopes to provide all of the holds for the 2020 games. Terry Ziolkowski, president of Force…

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2 minutos
goodbye to unbelayvable

In the three years that Unbelayvable has run, a mom has tied off her kid in a 20-foot-high timeout in the gym, climbers have used bed sheets instead of ropes in Boulder Canyon, Colorado, and three climbers from Georgia belayed off a car door. After 99 editions— tallying both print and online installments—of people finding new and exciting ways to incorrectly climb and use gear, Unbelayvable is ending. It’s not because climbers have run out of stupid ways to endanger themselves, but because I’m running out of advice. Frankly, I’ve come to question the value of writing about shenanigans like belaying off a car-door latch. Instances like these, while easily mined for humor, are outliers: The people in that story may have been the first and last to do it in…