Climbing July - August 2016

Climbing offers the entire climbing world: sport, trad, bouldering, walls, ice, alpine and mountains. In each issue we offer the richest stories on the vertical world you'll ever read, with award-winning photography. Climbing has earned its moniker as the journal of record for climbers worldwide.

United States
Pocket Outdoor Media, LLC
US$ 5,99

nesta edição

3 minutos
the approach

CLIMBER Patrick O’Donnell ROUTE Atlantis (5.11+) LOCATION The Needles, California This well-known and aesthetic four-pitch trad route gained its reputation as a classic for being steep, sustained, and full of powerful laybacks on excellent flakes—similar to how one could describe all the climbing at the Needles. The formations in the area, which is in the southern Sierra Nevada along the Kern River valley, are huge spires of high-quality granite that glows with streaks of fluorescent, yellow-green lichen. Randy Leavitt and Tony Yaniro established Atlantis in 1981, a few years after Fred Beckey and other locals started exploring the area in the 1970s. KEN ETZEL CLIMBER Alex Lowe LOCATION Baffin Island, Canada More than 16 years after they were buried in an avalanche on Shishapangma, Alex Lowe and David Bridges’ bodies have been found. On April 27, 2016, Ueli Steck and David Goettler…

1 minutos

[Monica Prelle] Based in California’s Sierra Nevada, where the subject of her story disappeared three years ago (p.60), Prelle learned to climb from her writing mentor and one of the best climbing writers of our generation, David Roberts. “Climbing with the Old Gang [Roberts and his climbing buddies] is more about spending time with friends than anything. For that I am grateful.” [Drew Smith] Growing up on a farm in eastern Montana (“no mountains or climbing nearby”), Smith’s dream at 18 was to have a wife and kids and be a welder, because “that was the normal thing to do where I grew up.” Now as a member of YOSAR and a pro photographer, Smith, who shot Eric Bissell on the first free ascent of Mr. Midwest (p.16), says, “Thankfully that didn’t happen!” [Mikaela…

4 minutos
the source of knowledge

TOMORROW IS MY 30TH BIRTHDAY. As most people are wont to do with age-related milestones, I have spent much of the last few weeks contemplating my place in life. Am I happy with where I am and what I’m doing? If not, then what steps do I need to take to change my situation? Lying awake the other night, I started to think about my journey to this editor’s chair. My mind meandered across the last six and a half years, from my fellow editors and former bosses to past successes and rookie mistakes. When I started this job, I was clueless. I just showed up every day, kept my mouth shut, and tried to learn as much as possible. The more experience I got, the more responsibilities I took on…

4 minutos

HELD IN JULY at the New River Gorge, West Virginia, HomoClimbtastic (HC) bills itself as the world ’s largest queer climbing convention, spreading the word that sports are for everyone. The inclusive event explains: “By queer, that includes bisexuals, lesbians, ambisexuals, gays, trans’es, questioners, not quite straight people, amphibians with crushes on cephalopods, or howe ver you define yourself. You don’t even have to be queer. You can be straight as a motha f ***in’ arrow.” We spoke to event organizer Alex Rowland. How did HomoClimbtastic get started? There were so many reasons to do it. We started 10 years ago, when queer people were still very alien in the public imagination. Certainly, I felt isolated as a gay male. I felt as though I couldn’t climb with queer people outside. I…

2 minutos
scary (and true) tales from a crag near you

My wife and I were climbing in Kalymnos, Greece, when we observed a gentleman belaying his partner up Climber’s Nest (5.10a). The route is about 70 feet. It starts with some slab climbing to a shelf, then some vertical climbing to another shelf, then an overhanging section to the anchors at the “nest.” It’s one of those routes where the belayer must be extra careful to prevent the climber from hitting one of the ledges. Instead, this guy was belaying 20 to 30 feet from the wall with way too much slack out. The rope was touching the ground at times. —Daniel, via email LESSON: A good belayer does more than feed out rope and catch falls. A good belayer should pay attention to the objective hazards of a route. Is the…

8 minutos
state of the heart

“SHE CRUSHED V15 at 14 years old. He’s about to send 5.16. They free climbed a 30-pitch 5.14d on El Capitan. Climbing’s progression is staggering,” says the voice around the campfire as flames spark into the shape of mountains, snap, then disappear. Any mention of alpine climbing is usually omitted from this recurring conversation because mountains transcend grades and deny appraisal. While numbers might tell the story at the crag, alpinism testifies to inner strength. Axes and crampons first pierced the Alps, then the mountains of Alaska, the Sierra Nevada, and South America. A fascination with the natural world and a desire to explore uncharted places fueled the early days of mountaineering. In 1492, the same year Columbus set sail from Spain, Antoine de Ville made the first known technical ascent…