Climbing May 2016

Climbing offers the entire climbing world: sport, trad, bouldering, walls, ice, alpine and mountains. In each issue we offer the richest stories on the vertical world you'll ever read, with award-winning photography. Climbing has earned its moniker as the journal of record for climbers worldwide.

United States
Pocket Outdoor Media, LLC
US$ 5,99

nesta edição

3 minutos

CLIMBER Mason Earle ROUTE X-Factor (5.13+) LOCATION Gozo, Malta “There were lots of mustaches out there,” said Mason Earle of a November 2015 trip to Malta with Matt Segal and photographer Andrew Burr. Following the Maltese grooming style, they grew their own lip hair to participate in No-Shave November, an unofficial event to raise awareness for prostate cancer and men’s health. While on Gozo, one of the islands that makes up the Maltese archipelago, Earle climbed this roof crack that was put up by Sonnie Trotter and Tommy Caldwell a few years earlier. Although the group enjoyed the deep water soloing and sport climbing opportunities on the island, a lot of the rock was choss. They described it “like dried peanut butter with old seashells in it.” CLIMBER Chris Sharma ROUTE Í skjóli nætur (5.11a) LOCATION Hnappavellir, Iceland Chris Sharma and Paul Robinson…

1 minutos

[Jenny Abegg] Alternating between living in a blue GMC Safari and Leavenworth, Washington, this Canadian adventure climber and our cover model finds travel the best way to interact with the world and grow as a person. She shares her wet and wild escapade in Rio de Janeiro (p.36), a city where she says, “You will never go on a more unique climbing trip!” [James Lucas] As the newest editor at Climbing, Lucas’ longtime goal was to become a writer, but “climbing got in the way.” He got his first piece published in this magazine in 2008, and has been writing for several media outlets for the last eight years while living out of his car. “The transition from living in my van to being inside a cubicle has been wild. There’s a lot…

2 minutos
dig a little deeper

THE INTERNET IS GREAT. A few days ago, I lost three hours of my life to a cyber vortex of bird-watching blogs, a previously uninteresting subject that captivated me when I found a whole community that, like climbers, travels the world to practice their craft. Social media, blogs, and self-publishing websites are a great platform to tell your story or add your opinion to a conversation, whether it’s spraying about warblers or your most recent ascent. Messages that used to filter through an editor for publication in a magazine or newspaper can now be instantly shouted from the rooftops with unrestrained passion. The dialogue becomes more diverse; multiple perspectives can o er a well-rounded examination of polarizing topics. Anyone can be their own magazine, and that’s a beautiful thing. So with the…

2 minutos
the top 10 things to yell at a climber

*Never, ever say this. OVERHEARD “Being a depressed, neurotic insomniac, I don’t say this often, but in that moment, I felt fucking amazing.” —Ethan Pringle, on letting go of his emotions before sending his project La Reina Mora (5.14d). Watch the video at “$3.5 million of that is spent on pizza and Ale 8 at Miguel’s, the other $100,000 is spent at the liquor shack one county over.” —Facebook user Be n Gun dlach, in re sponse to a study that found climbers spend $3.6 million an nually at the Red River Gorge. “I put my van in cruise control and walked to the back to get my pee bottle.” —Alex Honnold, in a debate with his mom about whether or not cruise control is important. UNSOLICITED BETA Letter of the Month I am 16 years old. I enjoy…

1 minutos

I climbed a V0 warm-up before realizing the descent was down a slippery log. @chris_olinger took a photo while I complained about sharp things and what they would do to my crotch. @DAVEIZDUM I was visiting family in Ohio over Thanksgiving weekend. After seven days away from my home gym in Los Angeles, LA Boulders, I was just itching to get back at it. @CHRISGODLEY When you’re so pumped from climbing that you can’t untie your knot. @ADAPTCLIMBGROUP Moving is hard. Anthony Johnson (@agjohnsphotography) hauls our 16-foot crack system through the window because it wouldn’t fit through the door. @KRISTINA.IRENE Got stuck in a Porta-potty at the Gunks. @DYLAN___CK I gave my daughter @__katlyn__ a pat on the back after a solid climbing session at S teep World. Maybe wearing black to the gym isn’t such a good idea? @TRAIL_JUMPER CORRECTION On page…

5 minutos
coffee and climbing

FOR MANY OF US, vans represent a break from the workaday world. #Vanlife is usually something you do until you run out of money, then you get a new job, save up, and start the cycle again. For Erik Gordon, owner and operator of Carabiner Coff ee, his van is his job. Erik operates a mobile coff ee shop at campgrounds, trailheads, and climbing areas out of a 1971 Volkswagen van he’s dubbed “Ol’ Blue.” We spoke to Erik about coffee, climbing, and his recently funded Kickstarter. How did your love affair with coffee begin? After I graduated college, I biked across the country and ended up in Oregon. I needed something to warm me up on a super-gloomy, cold, wet Pacific Northwest day. I pulled over to the side of the…