Climbing November 2015

Climbing offers the entire climbing world: sport, trad, bouldering, walls, ice, alpine and mountains. In each issue we offer the richest stories on the vertical world you'll ever read, with award-winning photography. Climbing has earned its moniker as the journal of record for climbers worldwide.

País:
United States
Língua:
English
Editora:
Pocket Outdoor Media, LLC
Periodicidade:
One-off
US$ 5,99

nesta edição

2 minutos
priceless lessons

The idea of mentorship (or lack thereof) is something we talk about a lot in these days of the gym-climbing boom. The gist being that in the good old days, you’d have an experienced rock climber take you under his or her wing to show you the ropes, while today you learn to crush in the gym then venture out to the crag physically strong, but not necessarily wise to the ways of rope systems or outdoor etiquette. I don’t believe mentorship is dead, though; I think it’s simply overwhelmed by the number of new climbers we have. Plus, the ideal may be a bit romanticized—there aren’t hordes of master craftsmen offering apprenticeships these days either. No matter, though. We have lots of little opportunities throughout our individual progressions as climbers…

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1 minutos
contributors

[Jeff Achey] Our senior contributing editor got a cherry assignment this issue: Go to Bermuda and see what’s up with the deep water soloing scene we’ve heard so much about. Rough gig for a landlocked Colorado boy. All he packed were board shorts, shoes, and chalkbags. Read his report on the island country’s burgeoning climbing scene on page 64. [Craig DeMartino] Craig has been climbing and traveling the world for the past 24 years. With speed ascents in Yosemite, first free ascents in Colorado, and a long competition history, he still loves to climb with his wife and kids the most. On page 54, he tells us about Croatia’s killer limestone—and how climbing with his family there made them so much closer. [Dierdre Wolownick] Dierdre, otherwise known as Alex Honnold’s mom, has been climbing since…

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2 minutos
the next 100 years of the national parks

Happy birthday, ranger hats! And sincere thanks to those who wear them for protecting the places we love to climb. Seriously, we know the summit of the Grand Teton is a pretty inhospitable place and that J-Tree in summer makes eggs fry just thinking about it, but that doesn’t mean they’d still be here for our seasonally appropriate enjoyment without your efforts. In fact, here’s a story from the park service’s first hundred years that speaks for itself. During WWII, there was intense patriotic pressure on the NPS to extract raw materials from the park system. That’s where our country’s mind was at: How can we use every last thing at our disposal to bolster the war effort? We mined salt from Death Valley and tungsten from Yosemite. Most controversially, however,…

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1 minutos
unsolicited beta

LETTER OF THE MONTH I was in Zion National Park with my daughter in March 2015 and was one of the many spectators watching Rob Pizem on the 5.13+ Purdy Power. Anyway, I took some pictures that day with Piz and the photographer. It must be hard climbing when the crowd is screaming, “You’re going to die!” I had no idea who was climbing that day until I picked up the August 2015 issue of Climbing! I love this magazine. It has been very informative and useful now that my 14-year-old daughter has been hitting the rock and gym daily. Hard to keep up with that girl these days! —Jon Cummins, Bozeman, Montana Senior Editor Julie Ellison responds: That’s actually me in the photos shooting Piz. You caught me in the act—very cool to…

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2 minutos
#climbingtrips

The Lover’s Leap campground in Tahoe, California, is so climber-friendly that not only does it have boulder problems in some of the campsites, they also provide a place to store your pro! —CAKE SHORTS Seth and I spent two weeks living out of my Honda CRV while climbing around California. Here we are nestled in the car, looking over the guidebook and trying to stay warm. @CHELSEATATUM After a day of climbing in the Lost Horse area of Joshua Tree, Scott takes a moment to enjoy the setting sun and a sip of whiskey. @MAXWELLFRANK (MAXWELLFRANK.COM) The Armstrong Bouldering Crew from Seoul, South Korea, on a trip to Osaka, Japan. @HEKOMBIE My wife and I met when I started climbing eight years ago. Here, we brought our family to Fontainebleau to present the climbing lifestyle to my son…

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1 minutos
scary (and true) tales from a crag near you

My gym has some long, low ceiling routes. I’d say they’re only around 12 feet high. It doesn’t give the belayer much space to catch a fall. One day I saw a guy leading one of the ceilings. His girlfriend wanted to chat with him while he climbed, so she was walking along underneath him as she belayed. When I saw them, she was already standing 15 feet from the start, and had so much slack out the rope was laying on the ground. I stopped and explained why the situation was dangerous. I naively expected her to take in slack and get closer to the wall. Instead, she proudly answered that her boyfriend was a good climber and would not fall. LESSON: This pretend belay isn’t accomplishing anything. If you’re…