Climbing November 2017

Climbing offers the entire climbing world: sport, trad, bouldering, walls, ice, alpine and mountains. In each issue we offer the richest stories on the vertical world you'll ever read, with award-winning photography. Climbing has earned its moniker as the journal of record for climbers worldwide.

País:
United States
Língua:
English
Editora:
Pocket Outdoor Media, LLC
Periodicidade:
One-off
US$ 5,99

nesta edição

4 minutos
reel rock 12

CLIMBER Brad Gobright ROUTE Crime of the Century (5.11b/c) LOCATION Squamish, British Columbia FILM Safety Third With confectioner’s sugar from his morning donut covering his face, 29-year-old Brad Gobright seems like an unlikely hero. The absentminded Gobright forgets his shorts, so he climbs Musta’ Been High, a 5.13c R in Eldorado Canyon, in his boxers. Living out of his Civic and working as a busboy in Boulder, Colorado, Gobright spends his mental and physical energy pushing hard, dangerous climbing, oft en unroped. Aft er surviving a back-breaking groundfall on Viceroy, a 5.14a R in Boulder Canyon, Gobright asks himself if he’s willing to keep putting it on the line with his free soloing in Eldorado—feats like 25 solos of the Naked Edge (5.11); or the Doub-Griffith (5.11c/d), a thin, hyper-exposed face/ arête—or if he’ll hang up his soloing…

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2 minutos
see the world, be the world

“TRAVEL IS FATAL to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness,” Mark Twain once wrote. In our current era of political divison, turmoil, and strife, Twain’s words ring truer—and are more needed—than ever. As climbers, we already know this deep down. Our sport is steeped in a rich history of travel, a lore that lives on in the #vanlife and #endlessroadtrip hashtags that dominate our social-media feeds. Climbing is best practiced with a heavy dose of travel. We train at the gym and our home crags to take our skills and passion on the road, to visit new crags and icefalls and mountains, to realize dream goals in the wildest reaches. We experience the earth at its rawest and most vital through our fingertips and toes, and come to intimately know the locals—climbers and…

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1 minutos
contributors

[Bryan Miller] Bryan Miller (“Mystery, Adventure, and Julia,” p.28) owns Fixed Line Media (fixedlinemedia.com), a climbing and adventure-content company in Charlotte, North Carolina. After 20 years in an office, Bryan left the desk to dangle from a fixed line. He has been exploring the backcountry through his lens ever since. [Johanna Flashman] A summer editorial intern for Climbing, Johanna Flashman (Off the Wall, p.16) is finishing her final year studying English literature at the University of St. Andrews, Scotland. An Oakland, California, native, Johanna began climbing at the Touchstone climbing gyms in 2013 and has since climbed all over, from Spain to West Virginia to Colorado. [Owen Summerscales] Research chemist Owen Summerscales is an expat from Yorkshire, England—the land of pies, terriers, rain, and particularly hard grit. After moving to the sunnier climes of New…

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2 minutos
unsolicited beta

IRANIAN WOMEN I enjoyed the piece on the Iranian climber (“A Portrait in Speed,” no. 356). However, in Iran, education for women has been strong for a long time. The number of women in university is higher than men. Also, Islamic law theoretically calls for stoning for extramarital sex, but it doesn’t happen in Iran (maybe in a small village). It does, however, happen in Afghanistan and Saudi Arabia. Women have far more latitude and rights in Iran than in other Islamic countries, and that’s partly because its society, women included, have very good access to education, up through university. Mitra Malek, via email AMERICA FIRST I have subscribed to your magazine for 25-plus years. I agree with John Schroyer’s letter in the Sept/Oct issue (no. 356) about wanting to see more US destinations…

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1 minutos
the duffel shuffle

Stuffing the van to the max while traveling from Dali to Li Ming, China. —BILL LANDEFELD Donkey laden with gear for a week climbing in the mountainous Tembien region of northern Ethiopia. —NICO PARKINSON Balti porters, aka superheroes, carry loads into the Nangma Valley, Karakoram, Pakistan, in 2015. —SHEHRYAR KHATTAK This is my best friend from Pequeño Alpamayo Basecamp in Bolivia. He’s carried many of my burdens. —ERIC NEILL I’m getting on the train from Sydney to the Blue Mountains for work and climbing. The mustache was just a bit of added fun. —ANDREW PERSKY A porter carries two enormous mattresses in Nepal’s Khumbu Region in 2014. —JOANNA MALSCH For a combined trip to Montana and the Bugaboos, I had to “borrow” a wheelchair to get my bag to the rental car. Life-saver! — ALEXANDER CHARMOZ This is Africa, man! —JULIANO FERRAZ Fernanda Gonzalez and a…

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3 minutos
next-gen visualization

IMAGINE ADAM ONDRA lying on his back, eyes squeezed shut in concentration, while a physiotherapist holds his heel in space, helping him visualize and strengthen his body specifically for a move. The therapist helps him mimic a crux on Silence, the 45-meter, world’s-first 5.15d Ondra climbed September 3 in the Hanshalleren Cave in Flatanger, Norway. Sound “out there”? Well, when you consider that Silence links 20 meters of 5.13d into a 5.15c, with wild, upside-down jessery and a V15 crux, this new, intense, assisted visualization starts to make more sense—Ondra needed every advantage. Who are you doing this training with? Klaus Isele, who is my physiotherapist and an experienced climber. My work with Klaus is not only on the level of injury prevention, but also on the level of how to climb…

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