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Inspirations

RETICULE

The stylish buttoned pouch contains three silk pockets and includes a ruler, thread winder and scissor fob. Counted and withdrawn thread techniques are used to create myriad patterns on the front, back and flap, integrating the popular sampler concept into a charming and useful stitching accessory.

before you begin

We recommend that you read the complete article and instructions in the pattern download

See the pattern download for the alphabet and numbers chart All embroidery is worked with ONE strand of thread

requirements

Fabric

28cm x 50cm wide (11" x 20") piece of light mocha 32-count linen

10cm (4") square of raspberry silk dupion 60cm x 25cm wide (24" x 10") piece of peridot silk dupion

Supplies

30cm x 25cm wide (12" x 10") piece of lightweight fusible interfacing

23cm x 12.5cm wide (9" x 5") piece of heavyweight interlining

Slate or scroll frame to fit fabric

Strong thread (lacing) Sewing thread to match peridot silk

Sewing thread to match linen 7mm ( 5/16") mother-of-pearl button

11mm ( 3/8") pink crystal bead 4.5cm x 6cm wide

(1 3/4" x 2 1/2") piece of firm card Ruler

Sharp lead pencil

Needles

No. 10 crewel No. 24 tapestry No. 26 tapestry

Threads

DMC no. 12 perlé cotton

A = 842 vy lt beige-brown

Gloriana stranded silk thread

B = 48 Spanish moss

C = 116 olive grove

D = 194 flowers of Italy

E = 205 carmine rose

F = 224 Jersey shore

G = 236 Italian gold

H = 243 vintage teal

The finished reticule measures 10.5cm x 20cm wide

(4 1/8" x 8").

this design uses

Algerian eyelet | Aztec stitch | Back stitch | Cross stitch | Diagonal pattern darning | Four-sided stitch Hedebo stitch loop | Long-arm cross stitch | Rice stitch | Satin stitch | Upright cross stitch

preparation for embroidery

PREPARING THE FABRICS

Neaten the raw edges of the linen with a machine zigzag or overlock stitch to prevent fraying.

TRANSFERRING THE DESIGN

Work all tacking lines along the grainlines using the green sewing thread. At the upper left-hand corner of the linen rectangle measure in and mark 4cm (1 1/2") from the upper and side edges. Beginning at this point and working over and under four threads, mark out each piece following the diagram. Mark the horizontal centre of the reticule in the same manner (diag 1).

embroidery

See pages 26–27 for step-by-step instructions for working the Aztec stitch, diagonal pattern darning and rice stitch.

Refer to the close-up photographs and charts for colour placement.

Use the no. 10 crewel needle for construction, the no. 24 tapestry needle for the perlé cotton, and the no. 26 tapestry for the silk.

All embroidery is worked in the frame.

CHART: Each square on each graph represents 2 x 2 fabric threads

Note: On each short edge and dividing border line of the reticule there is a compensating stitch worked over two threads. On each diagonal edge of the thread winder there is a compensating stitch. Work under or over only two threads at these points.

ORDER OF WORK

Hint: When working cross stitch and long-arm cross stitch with variegated threads complete each cross before moving on to the next.

Reticule

Using A, stitch the outer border of all three panels with back stitch over four threads, taking care to work the compensating stitch over two threads as indicated on the graph. Remove the tacking as you work. Work the inner border lines between the panels in the same manner. There should be two stitched lines between each panel.

FLAP

Upper border

Work the border design in cross stitch using C for the scrolling line, E and B for the tree motifs and G and H for the diamond motifs.

Diagonal bands

The bands are worked in long-arm cross stitch, worked from left to right. Turn the fabric and chart so that the upper short end of the band on the left-hand side is horizontal. Using D, work the first row. Turn the work 180 degrees and work the next row. Turn the fabric again and work the third row. Continue working in this manner until the left-hand band is complete. Turn the work 180 degrees. Beginning at the base of the right-hand band stitch in the same manner.

Carnation

Using F, stitch the carnation with long-arm cross stitch in the same manner as the diagonal bands, mirror-imaging one side of the flower petals and buds to the other. Work the centre petals with vertical rows in the same manner.

BACK

BACK

Panel A

Stitch the outline grid in satin stitch using H. Fill the centre of each block with an Algerian eyelet using G.

Panel B

Work the panel with rows of diagonal pattern darning using D. Turn the fabric 90 degrees and begin stitching at 1.

Panel C

Using B, work each alternate square with rice stitch over 4 x 4 threads. Fill each remaining square with upright cross stitch over 2 x 2 threads using C.

Panel D

Work the satin stitch border with A over four threads. Cut and remove the required threads following the step-by-step instructions. Embroider the centre panel in Aztec stitch using B, C, D, E, F, G and H. Work the rows with F on the wrong side of the fabric. Stitch the floral border with cross stitch using C for the foliage and E for the flowers.

FLAP

FRONT

BACK

Panel E

Work the centre zigzag with blocks of satin stitch over six threads using B. Fill the area on each side with four-sided stitch using H.

Panel F

Embroider the panel with rows of diagonal pattern darning using D and beginning at 1.

Stitch the outline of the bar motif between panels E and F with back stitch using E. Work upright cross stitch over 4 x 4 threads along the centre using H.

Panel G

Work the panel in satin stitch using G over four threads for the horizontal and vertical stitches and alternating between C and B for the diagonal stitches.

FRONT

FRONT

Upper flower border

Work the border in cross stitch using B for the base line and foliage and E and G for the flowers.

Birds

Work the birds in cross stitch using H for the body and head, G for the wing and E for the flower.

Corner motifs

Embroider each motif in cross stitch using B, C, E, G, and F.

Centre panel

Work the outer panel border in cross stitch using F and H. Choose the required letters and numbers from the lift-out pattern and work the name and date in cross stitch over 1 x 1 threads using E.

Lower satin stitch border

Embroider the upper and lower lines with satin stitch over four threads using E. Fill the inner area with two rows of alternating upright cross stitch using H.

Ruler

Using A, stitch the border with back stitch over four threads. Remove the tacking as you work. Embroider the markings in back stitch using C and the numbers in cross stitch using H. Stitch the flower at each end with cross stitch over 1 x 1 threads using B for the foliage and E and G for the flower.

Thread winder

Using A, stitch the border with back stitch over four threads taking care to work the compensating stitch at each angled edge over two threads. Remove the tacking as you work.

Choose the required letters from the lift-out pattern and work in cross stitch using E.

Stitch the bird with cross stitch over 1 x 1 threads using H for the body and head, G for the wing and E for the flower.

Scissor fob

Using A, stitch the border with back stitch over four threads. Remove the tacking as you work.

SIDE 1

Work the motif in cross stitch using B, E, F and G.

SIDE 2

Choose the required letters from the lift-out pattern and work in cross stitch using D.

Work the motif in cross stitch using B and E.

RULER (INCHES)

RULER (CM)

Details from Betsy’s original Mexican sampler

THREAD WINDER

SCISSOR FOB

construction

See the pattern download.

AZTEC STITCH

With diagonal rows of colour worked over a drawn thread panel, Aztec stitch creates a pretty, lace-like effect. To show more of the ground fabric within the design, or create a break in the diagonal pattern, a row may be worked from the wrong side. The diagonal lines of thread will then be on the back of the work. When cutting the linen threads, cut as close as possible to the inner edge of the satin stitch border.

1 Drawn thread panel. Work a border of satin stitch over four threads to stabilize the panel.

2 Cut and withdraw the vertical linen threads across the panel in the following pattern: cut 2, leave 6, cut 2.

3 Cut and withdraw the horizontal threads in the same manner.

4 Aztec stitch. Beginning at A, wrap the first two vertical linen threads three times.

5 Take the thread diagonally to the horizontal fabric threads as shown. Wrap the upper two threads three times.

6 Repeat steps 4–5 to wrap the adjacent first two vertical threads and first two of the next group of horizontal and vertical threads.

7 Continue to the end of the diagonal row.

8 Turn the work 180 degrees. Using the same colour, work the next diagonal row in the same manner, wrapping the centre two vertical and horizontal threads.

9 Turn the work 180 degrees and work the next diagonal row in the same manner, wrapping the last two vertical and horizontal threads.

10 Repeat steps 4–9 to work sets of three diagonal rows across the panel, changing colour after each set.

11 The blue set has been worked in the same sequence but from the wrong side.

DIAGONAL PATTERN DARNING

This stitch adds a lovely sense of movement and is a great way to display a beautiful, variegated thread. For the reticule, work each diagonal stitch over 3 x 6 fabric threads and space them two fabric threads apart.

RICE STITCH

Also known as raised knot stitch and square boss, rice stitch has the appearance of a cross worked through a circle. It can be used in a line or as an isolated stitch and can be worked in a single colour or a combination. The stitch has been worked over eight threads for clarity. In the project it is worked over four threads.

1 Work a stitch from A to B.

2 Leaving two fabric threads, work a stitch from C to D.

1 Bring the thread to the front at A, take it to the back at B and emerge at C.

2 Take the thread to the back at D.

3 Continue across the row, alternating the direction of each stitch.

4 Leaving two fabric threads and working in the opposite direction to the first row, take the thread from E to F.

3 Bring the thread to the front at E. Take it to the back at F and emerge at G.

4 Take the thread to the back at E and emerge at H.

5 Complete the second row, working alternating diagonal stitches aligned with the first row.

6 Work back and forth across the required area in the same manner.

5 Take the thread to the back at G and re-emerge at F.

6 Take the thread to the back at H and secure.

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