Gripped: The Climbing Magazine June/July 2021 Vol. 23 Issue 3

Gripped offers the international world of climbing through the highest quality journalism and incredible pictures.

Gripped Inc
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6 Edições

nesta edição

2 minutos
olympics and accessibility

One year ago, we had planned on this annual summer issue to have a heavy focus on the Olympics. Now, it will be the Olympic issue once again, or as much of an Olympic issue as it can be. Because we don’t’ know if the Olympics will 100 per cent be going ahead, most of our coverage and stories will be online. At the time of print, climbers Alannah Yip and Sean McColl had received their Team Canada Olympic denim retro-skater uniforms and were still planning to head to Tokyo. Plans might have changed by now, and maybe the Games aren’t going ahead, but we hope they are. It will be great to see Yip and McColl representing Canada, catapulting sport climbing on to the world stage like never before. When…

1 minutos

Metolius Wood Rock Ring $53 These wood rings weigh only 450 grams each, which makes them perfect as a travel training tool. They are convenient for small spaces and will help you build superior grip strength. There are three edge sizes to hang from. Petzl Spirit Express 17 cm $24 The Spirit Express comes in two sizes, the 11 cm and the 17 cm, with the latter being a nearly perfect long quickdraw for projects and onsight attempts. It has a straight-gate on top and a bent-gate carabiner on the bottom. It’s easy to clip and to grap onto during those don’t-want-to-whip moments. Arc’teryx C Quence Harness Women’s $190 The C Quence is one of the most comfortable harnesses on the market. It has a longer rise between the leg loops and waist belt, which allows you to…

5 minutos
midori buechli

Midori Buechli is a strong Ontario climber based near some of the best rock climbing south of Toronto. With over 10 years of climbing experience, she’s put her skills to work at Niagara Glen at the start of this year and completed a handful of classic lines up to V9. We touched base with her in April. How long ago did you start climbing, and what was your first memorable outdoor send? I started climbing in 2010 at the Laurentian University bouldering club. It was a tiny, sweaty room with the greasiest holds, and all the problems were traverses, since the room was only about 8–9 feet high. Having never really been exposed to climbing before that, it was magical and I was hooked. My first memorable outdoor send was during a…

8 minutos

Will Bosi Climbs New 5.15c Scottish climber Will Bosi, 22, made the first ascent of King Capella at Siurana in Catalonia, Spain, and proposed the grade of 5.15c. He then made the first ascent of Furia de Jabali 5.15b. He’s the first British climber and only the sixth climber ever to climb 5.15c. Bosi had been in Spain since December 2020 as a part of his preparations for the 2021 competition season and longer-term preparations for the next Olympic cycle. King Capella was bolted by David Brasco. Bosi said, “King Capella has the same style of the area with a series of boulder problems stacked on top of one another, however, this route was another level for me. For comparison, it took me three sessions to complete La Capella, whereas it…

2 minutos
news flash

→ Alannah Yip Sends V12 Olympic-qualified Alannah Yip sent the test-piece boulder problem Room Service V12 in Squamish. The first ascent was in 2011 by Sean McColl, who will be joining Yip at the Olympics this summer. → New Squamish 5.13 Jason Green made the first ascent of Vulture Culture 5.13-, a bolted climb at Fatty Bolger, in April. The new crag has a handful of routes that start at 5.6. → New Rockies Ice Moderate Luka Bogdanovic and Shawn White made the first ascent of The Odyssey, a 200-metre seven-pitch WI4 above Lake Minnewanka this winter. It’s destined to become a classic. → Alex Honnold Solos Alex Honnold made a one-day link up of three of Red Rock’s most famous multi-pitch climbs. Honnold went ropeless on Levitation 29 5.11+, nine pitches; Cloud Tower 5.12-, six pitches…

3 minutos
solo on el cap

I remember the first time that I visited Yosemite to rock climb. My older and more experienced friend Kurt had invited me. I remember being full of excitement. He gave me a belay on my first climb, only a few months prior, at Pinnacles National Park. I had climbed trees and fences before, as a child, but it was different: harder, more complicated and daunting. Climbing became my passion. As we arrived in Yosemite, we drove past a big wall of granite. A big full moon hung high in the sky, as the valley lit up with moonlight. Kurt pointed to El Cap, and asked if I’d heard someone howling. “Yes, what is that?” I asked, slightly confused. “It came from El Cap,” he said. I’d been feeling like howling at…