National Geographic Traveller (UK) November 2021

Each issue is packed with authentic travel experiences and vivid photography, plus insights and tips to inspire would-be explorers to travel widely, ethically and safely. We are passionate about experiencing the world, championing sustainable travel and celebrating journeys from a local or cultural perspective.

United Kingdom
National Geographic Traveller (UK)
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1 minutos

Lucy Gillmore Cambodia’s cuisine is stepping out of the shadow of its neighbours’. Eating my way around the country, meeting chefs resurrecting and updating regional recipes, and exploring Phnom Penh’s street food scene was eye-opening. CAMBODIA P.52 Jamie La_ erty Most Alaskan tourism is focused on the west of the country, but I’m glad I headed north to meet the Iñupiat communities that call the North Slope region home — and not just because I was surrounded by polar bears most days. ALASKA P.90 Nina Caplan Sticking to Burgundy’s well-trodden routes means you miss out on a lot, which is why this time, I decided on a leisurely drive, with stops for history, architecture and, of course, wonderful food worthy of the world’s greatest wines. BURGUNDY P.102 Christopher Wilton-Steer To cross Tajikistan’s Pamir Mountains, I travelled along…

2 minutos
editor’s letter

All cities have layers, but few can claim to be as stratified as Rome. Civilisations that have taken root here over millennia seem to jostle for prominence at every turn — medieval streets constructed above Etruscan sewers, Roman columns repurposed by Renaissance architects, baroque churches consecrated on top of ancient tombs, 1950s flats built upon the remains of palatial villas… Part of Rome’s magic is the way in which it honours its icons, like the Colosseum and the Pantheon. But rather than simply dining out on its past and preserving the city in aspic, the Eternal City refuses to stand still. Part of its unique appeal as a modern metropolis is the way its ancient lineage is woven into the narrative of the present, unfolding across its patchwork of spirited neighbourhoods. In…

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smart traveller

SNAPSHOT Morrelganj, Bangladesh On the way to Morrelganj to take the famous Rocket paddle steamer, I passed through a small village near the Panchunchi River. My presence didn’t go unnoticed by the children who were playing in the water. The group included a young woman, dressed in a colourful sari, with flowery earrings and elaborate henna designs on her hands. She told me she was ready to celebrate Pahela Baishakh, the Bengali New Year, and invited me to meet the rest of the villagers. Before I left, the girl asked me to take a picture of her, so I’d remember her every time I thought of Bangladesh. @holasandraphoto…

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anegada, british virgin islands

Off the coast of Anegada, the northernmost of the British Virgin Islands, the waters teem with conch and lobster. Fishing is a popular pastime on this low-lying, coral-and-sandstone cay, home to fewer than 300 permanent residents. Fish caught for food is landed on this concrete jetty, jutting from a headland known as Setting Point. The day’s catch rarely has far to go: from the jetty, it’s just a few minutes’ walk around the bay to beachside cafes serving seafood dishes, including conch fritters and grilled lobster. @mark_parren_t…

2 minutos
green light

As attendees of the 2021 United Nations Climate Change Conference hopefully won’t find out, it’s incredibly challenging to be green in certain parts of Glasgow. The city’s 130-year-long football rivalry between Celtic and Rangers means there are entire neighbourhoods where simply wearing anything green would be met with howls of derision. Thankfully, the city and its residents are open to change in other areas. For the past couple of decades, Glasgow — whose Gaelic name, Glaschu, fittingly means ‘dear green place’ — has seen the development of restaurants and hotels, with neighbourhoods formerly best avoided evolving rapidly, thrillingly into something new. Nowhere is this more evident than in FINNIESTON. The area has gone from better-to-take-a-taxi-through-it to one of Scotland’s most dynamic gourmet corners, and it continues to excite with new openings. The…

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high & mighty

Head for heights The world’s longest elevated forest walkway (nearly a mile long) opened this summer in the ski resort of Laax and will stay open throughout the winter. The Senda dil Dragun (‘path of the dragon’) snakes through the treetops between Laax Murschetg village and Laax Dorf, at heights of nearly 100ft. It’s reached by lifts at each end. From £12. Room with a view Lie back in the Kempinski Palace Engelberg’s top-floor spa and enjoy the Alpine grandeur through a glass wall and ceiling. The belle époque hotel, which first opened its doors in 1904, reopened this summer after a fiveyear restoration and expansion. It’s not just the spa with stellar views; mountain-backed vistas abound, and it’s only a stroll from the Brunnibahn gondola. From £465, B&B. Table talk New Verbier…