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SHOWDETAILS PARIS+LONDONSHOWDETAILS PARIS+LONDON

SHOWDETAILS PARIS+LONDON Fall - Winter 2017

Showdetails is the leader magazine that zooms in on the runway, providing the very first look at the details that ‘make difference’ in the women’s and men’s clothing and accessories collections. Lines, materials, fabrics, prints, accessories, lace, embroidery, passementerie, cuts buttons, zips, appliqués and every details from the looks fresh off the runway – seen up close with the best quality available on the market!!!.

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United States
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English
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SHOWDETAILS SRL
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paris women collections autumn/winter 2017.18

“What’s new today, I wondered. Nothing, other than what comes out of connecting known things together. Everything lies in putting them together differently and with other contaminations”. So says Pierpaolo Piccioli, creative director at Valentino, which helps us understand where fashion is at now, what direction it will take in the future and what choices creatives will make so as not to repeat themselves ad infinitum. This solution of connecting things we already know was seen a lot on the recent Paris runways, with designers taking archive photos, forty-year-old collections, particular haute couture models and, in general, recognisable periods in history and framing them within contemporary lines, proportions and silhouettes. Adam Andrascik for Guy Laroche, for example, retrieved the sensuality of two images from early ’70s collections while Vaccarello for…

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neo-vintage

The ’60s and ’70s lived on at Chloé with a series of little dresses reminiscent of the iconic style of muses such as Jane Birkin and Marianne Faithfull: mini, longsleeved, with pussy-bow and psychedelic patterns or baby-dolls with lace and organza transparencies, or sleeveless and layered over blouses with big collars and loose sleeves. Even the outerwear had a retro allure, in shaded checks and/or with big shoulders and fur collars. Broad shoulders and big belts from the ’80s were showcased at Isabel Marant, who lengthened the hemlines of floral dresses and skirts, adding asymmetry and swelled the size of trousers, pairing them with tucked-in jumpers. Blazers and other outerwear also had voluminous shoulders and oversize lines, while embroidered jeans were tightfitting and worn with thigh-high glossy boots. Miu Miu produced a…

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retro-romantic

Sacred and profane interwine on the Alexander McQueen stage just l i ke the threads hanging off l e a t h e r c o a t s a n d l o n g h i g h - necked dresses , recalling Cornwall’s ‘Clootie trees’ that are decorated with strips of cloth as a propitiatory ritual or memento. Ancestral practices, pagan rituals, myths and legends were translated into medieval crests, heraldry and churches on asymmetric dresses with rawcut hems, a long belt cinching the waist and those threads shooting across the surfaces throughout the collection. What could be more romantic than the story of ‘Giselle’, the girl who dies of a broken heart in the iconic ballet? Elie Saab captured its dark side, imagining Giselle in kohlrimmed eyes,…

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contemporary tailoring

Phoebe Philo for Céline reworked menswear in a series of classic pieces made more fluid and feminine by new proportions. Coats and trenches were long with voluminous shoulders and sleeves and big lapels. The same principle applied to long suit jackets, paired with soft trousers that tapered slightly at the bottom. Shirts were lengthened into dresses with big pointed collars and sometimes worn over trousers. More mannish womenswear from Dries Van Noten, whose oversize lines began at the shoulders of coats, trenches and blazers, some of which had fur sleeves. These were paired with white shirts, turtlenecks, baggy jeans with turn-ups or loose classic trousers or fluid dresses decorated with iconic prints from the designer’s archive – all in a mix of basic and bold colours such as orange and green. Haider…

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paris collezioni donna autunno/inverno 2017.18

“Mi sono chiesto: che cosa è nuovo oggi? Nulla, se non quel che viene fuori da connessioni di cose conosciute. Tutto sta a metterle insieme in modo diverso e con altre contaminazioni.” Sono proprio le parole di Pierpaolo Piccioli, direttore creativo di Valentino, che aiutano a capire a che punto è arrivata la moda, che direzione prenderà in futuro e quali scelte adotteranno i creativi per non ripetersi all’infinito. Questa soluzione di connessioni tra cose che già si conoscono si è vista in abbondanza sulle ultime passerelle parigine, con i designer che hanno citato foto d’archivio, collezioni di quarant’anni fa, particolari modelli di haute couture e, in generale, epoche storiche ben riconoscibili, poi inquadrate in linee, proporzioni e silhouette attualizzate. Adam Andrascik per Guy Laroche recupera, per esempio, la sensualità…

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neo-vintage

Gli anni ’60 e ’70 rivivono sulla passerella di Chloé, con una serie di abitini che richiamano lo stile iconico di muse come Jane Birkin e Marianne Faithfull: mini, a manica lunga, con pussy-bow e in fantasie psichedeliche o baby-doll con trasparenze in pizzo e organza oppure smanicati e sovrapposti a bluse con maxi-colletto e maniche ampie. Anche i capospalla hanno un’allure rétro, a check sfumati e/o con grandi spalle e collo di pelliccia. Sono gli anni ’80 delle maxi-spalle e dei cinturoni strizzati in vita quelli di Isabel Marant che allunga gli orli degli abiti floreali e delle gonne, arricchendoli di asimmetrie e gonfia i pantaloni, abbinandoli ai maglioni portati dentro. Spalle voluminose e linee oversize anche per i blazer e, in generale, per tutti i capospalla, mentre i jeans,…

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