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SHOWDETAILS PARIS+LONDONSHOWDETAILS PARIS+LONDON

SHOWDETAILS PARIS+LONDON Spring - Summer 2017

Showdetails is the leader magazine that zooms in on the runway, providing the very first look at the details that ‘make difference’ in the women’s and men’s clothing and accessories collections. Lines, materials, fabrics, prints, accessories, lace, embroidery, passementerie, cuts buttons, zips, appliqués and every details from the looks fresh off the runway – seen up close with the best quality available on the market!!!.

País:
United States
Língua:
English
Editora:
SHOWDETAILS SRL
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2 Edições

NESTA EDIÇÃO

access_time2 minutos
paris

Why does fashion keep looking back instead of forward? Why this insistence on skipping from one decade to another, from a mini-skirt to bell bottoms, a Victorian collar to a sky-high split, instead of grounding us in the here and now, exploring it and finding all-new inspirations that don’t look like déjà vu? What is preventing designers from tuning in to their own time? A lack of courage? A dip in creativity that makes it easier to look back and reinterpret the past, rather than breaking the mould and traditions and opening up to the new? The Paris runways did include some influential and courageous attempts, but the overall trend was once again to rework past decades for the delectation and, above all, the consumption of new generations. The ’80s,…

access_time1 minutos
roaring eighties

The iconic tweed suit was reworked for ‘Millennials’ – with oversize lines, contrasting edges, Velcro straps in place of buttons, skirts with front zips – and worn over visible underwear; this was Karl Lagerfeld’s revolution for Chanel, which featured lace slip dresses peeping out from under skirt hems or even replacing the skirt altogether. Tops were also mostly camisoles with thin shoulder straps and lace insets in delicate pink tones. Giambattista Valli’s collection centred on a black lace bra, which was worn over tops or on its own, paired with pleated skirts or masculine trousers. The main lingerie garment appeared under floral dresses, sheer blouses, little zipped jackets and overcoats, paired with matching panties, as the bodice in slip dresses and even in the evening outfits, such as the long mesh…

access_time1 minutos
under/over

The iconic tweed suit was reworked for ‘Millennials’ – with oversize lines, contrasting edges, Velcro straps in place of buttons, skirts with front zips – and worn over visible underwear; this was Karl Lagerfeld’s revolution for Chanel, which featured lace slip dresses peeping out from under skirt hems or even replacing the skirt altogether. Tops were also mostly camisoles with thin shoulder straps and lace insets in delicate pink tones. Giambattista Valli’s collection centred on a black lace bra, which was worn over tops or on its own, paired with pleated skirts or masculine trousers. The main lingerie garment appeared under floral dresses, sheer blouses, little zipped jackets and overcoats, paired with matching panties, as the bodice in slip dresses and even in the evening outfits, such as the long mesh…

access_time1 minutos
workwear variations

Hermès focused on practical, functional luxury that nodded to workwear by borrowing its style and details. There were zipped shirts with reinforced shoulders and diagonal zipped pockets tucked into high-waist trousers with side bands, jumpsuits with collar and zip, and long skirts with maxi pockets. Pink tones were in some cases used to soften the workwear edge. The perfect mix of utilitarian elements and romanticism featured in Isabel Marant’s collection, which offered youthful clothes such as crop tops, little pleated skirts, jumpsuits and high-waist trousers with large and small pockets, visible stitching, zips and laces. Floral prints, flounces and fluid lines gave everything an eye-catching bohemian feel. The Studio 54-style glamour packaged by Lim and Leon for Kenzo had a fundamental practical character inspired by work uniforms, despite the dancefloor make-up and…

access_time2 minutos
paris

Perche la moda non va piu avanti ma continua a guardare solo indietro? Perche questo insistente rimbalzare da un’epoca all’altra, da una minigonna ad un pantalone a zampa, da un collo vittoriano ad uno spacco inguinale, invece di fermarsi nel presente, qui e ora, setacciandolo e trovando ispirazioni ex-novo, che non sappiano di deja vu? Cosa impedisce ai creativi di sintonizzarsi con il proprio tempo? La mancanza di coraggio? Un calo di creativita per cui e piu comodo ripescare, reinterpretandolo, il passato, piuttosto che rompere con schemi e tradizioni aprendosi al nuovo? Di prove autorevoli e coraggiose sulle passerelle, in questo caso parigine, se ne sono viste ma la propensione e ancora quella a prendere come punto di riferimento determinati periodi e rielaborarli in modo appetibile, ad uso e consumo…

access_time1 minutos
roaring eighties

Focus su spalle e maniche chez Emanuel Ungaro, dove Fausto Puglisi ripropone il massimalismo anni ’80 arricchendolo di ruche iper-decorative che ‘gonfiano’ i profili di mini-abiti, top e gonne. Queste ultime, dal mini al midi, hanno, in certi casi, profondi spacchi e sono portate con cinture alte con maxi-fibbia a cuore. Pois e macro-stampe floreali e grafiche sono quell’elemento ornamentale in piu che conferma l’esuberanza del mood. Da Louis Vuitton Nicolas Ghesquiere riscrive invece l’eleganza francese attribuendo ai suoi Eighties un tocco tagliente; i long e short dress sono caratterizzati da lacci chiusi ad anello che imprigionano il classico drappeggio a volte aperendo squarci geometrici sulla pelle nuda. Spalle rinforzate per le giacche sartoriali e in generale per tutti i capospalla ma anche per le mise del finale, abiti trasparenti con…

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