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SHOWDETAILS PARIS+LONDONSHOWDETAILS PARIS+LONDON

SHOWDETAILS PARIS+LONDON Spring - Summer 2018

Showdetails is the leader magazine that zooms in on the runway, providing the very first look at the details that ‘make difference’ in the women’s and men’s clothing and accessories collections. Lines, materials, fabrics, prints, accessories, lace, embroidery, passementerie, cuts buttons, zips, appliqués and every details from the looks fresh off the runway – seen up close with the best quality available on the market!!!.

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United States
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English
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SHOWDETAILS SRL
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women collections spring/summer 2018

What was the mood on the recent Paris runways? Two designers, Dries Van Noten and Julien Dossena, the creative director at Paco Rabanne, offered an indirect response. The former by claiming we have to enjoy ourselves, in spite of or perhaps because of the dark times the world is experiencing; the latter by stating he has never been out so much in the evening since after the Paris attacks, and not to escape reality but to stand up to it. The general feeling of instability and darkness is probably leading this desire for escape. How wonderful! Optimism has thus become a trend and designers are duly taking note. Also because, while it is true that fashion instils in people desires they did not know they had, it can only be…

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homage to nature

Floral motifs were practically everywhere in Paris in the form of print, appliqués or embroidery. Few collections ignored them completely. Some designers were not content just with flowers, but turned to gardens, waterfalls, tropical forests, organic forms and even seafood – in short, nature in all its myriad manifestations. Flounces and ruffles embellished ethereal slip dresses like petals gently opening in the cool spring sun, revealing shades of pink in the Alexander McQueen collection palette. It was a homage to the poetry of English gardens, translated into lace and embroidered sheer insets and clouds of organza, tulle and chiffon scattered with climbing florals that seemed alive. The inspiration chez Chanel was the waterfalls of the Gorges du Verdon, in the South of France, a spectacular landscape recreated at the Grand Palais…

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dancefloor

The return of ‘disco fever’ is not just a trend but also a sign that brands are really targeting the new generations, as well as a desire for fun, despite the high alert in Paris. Hemlines were shorter, heels higher, dresses radiated metallic sheen or fell fluidly over the body, with slashes revealing the skin and lingerie. These looks are perfect for summer nights spent dancing on the beach. The mini-dresses, tops tucked into miniskirts and high-waist shorts and crocheted swimsuits that Isabel Marantoffered her very young fans were ideal for showing off the legs, even while wearing flip flops. Minimalism and cleanness but with a sexy twist for the Lanvin woman, ready for night clubbing (un)dressed in sheer, low-necked tops over visible underwear, paired with skirts with high splits and asymmetric…

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the shining

Sparkling, luminous, bright. There are many ways of describing all that glitters, in the real or figurative sense. In fashion speak, you could call it ‘sequinned’, ‘glittery’, ‘golden’, ‘silvery’ depending on the materials and details used. On the Paris runways, the widespread membership to ‘the shining club’ led designers to resort to every possible material, as well as metallic tones and silky saturated colours. At Balmain, Natal ia Vodianova opened the show in a black patent jumpsuit with gold chain straps, immediately ramping up the glamour. The subsequent looks all featured iridescence from jewel appliqués, metallic weaves, glitter, sequins, varnished leather for mini-dresses and long sinuous dresses, skinny trousers, mini-skirts, low-cut knits and mesh. Dries Van Noten’s collection was bright and packed with embellishment, beginning with precious details such as jewels dotted…

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collezioni donna primavera/estate 2018

Che aria tira sulle ultime passerelle parigine? La risposta indiretta la danno due stilisti, Dries Van Noten e Julien Dossena, direttore creativo di Paco Rabanne; il primo sostenendo che bisogna godersela, malgrado o forse proprio per i tempi bui che il mondo sta vivendo, il secondo affermando che non è mai uscito tanto la sera come dopo gli attentati di Parigi e non per fuggire dalla realtà ma per resisterle. In generale, è probabile che sia proprio il diffuso sentimento d’instabilità e di cupezza del momento a portare alla ricerca di evasione. Che meraviglia! L’ottimismo è quindi diventato un trend e i designer lo registrano dovutamente; anche perché, se è vero che la moda instilla nelle persone desideri che non sanno di avere, allora è solo un bene che infonda…

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inno alla natura

I motivi floreali, a Parigi, si sono visti praticamente dappertutto, sotto forma di stampa, applicazione, ricamo; poche le collezioni che li hanno totalmente esclusi dai propri look. Poi ci sono quei designer che non si sono accontentati dei fiori ma hanno evocato giardini, cascate, foreste tropicali, forme organiche e persino frutti di mare, ovvero la natura nelle sue varie straordinarie manifestazioni. Balze e volant decorano gli eterei abiti sottoveste come petali che si schiudono al tiepido sole primaverile, complici le sfumature rosate che compongono la palette della collezione di Alexander McQueen. Un inno alla poetica dei giardini inglesi, tradotta in pizzi e inserti trasparenti ricamati e in nuvole di organza, tulle e chiffon su cui spiccano rampicanti floreali che sembrano cosa viva. L’elemento ispiratore chez Chanelè l’acqua che sgorga dalle Gole del…

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