What Ray’s Pouring Now
NV CHARLES HEIDSIECK BRUT RÉSERVE ($69) I recently tested out, again, how well Champagne pairs with caviar, thanks to an excellent new producer, Haute Caviar (hautecaviarcompany.com). So, how well? Let’s see: very, very well. Especially when the Champagne is as good as Heidsieck’s layered, toasty Brut Réserve. 2019 CASTELLO DI MONSANTO FABRIZIO BIANCHI CHARDONNAY ($30) On my first international trip in a long while, I headed to Chianti Classico. There, at Castello di Monsanto, proprietor Laura Bianchi poured me a surprise—her new (to the U.S.) and sublime Chardonnay, a bright, complex white perfect for fall dinners. 2018 STEFANO AMERIGHI CORTONA SYRAH ($35) In Rome, I had dinner with Federico De Cesare Viola, the editor of F&W’s Italian edition, who introduced me to this darkly intense Syrah from Tuscany. It was fantastic with a bowl of…