A lot is made of Southern hospitality, and for good reason.
ONE OF MY FIRST FOOD MEMORIES is of a pig pickin’ with my godmother’s family in Chesapeake, Virginia. The smell of charcoal and the low-hanging haze have stayed with me more than the pig itself (though I’m sure it was incredible). The crowd of family and friends started tending the coals in the early hours of the morning on a handmade roaster to get the hog ready for supper. Throughout the day there were refreshments aplenty. Sweet tea and deviled eggs must have certainly been served, but was there pimiento cheese? Salty boiled peanuts? I wish I could remember. While whole-hog pig roasts like that one aren’t as common as they used to be, anyone who has experienced one (like pitmaster Elliot Moss, who we interviewed on page 13) knows they’re something…