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Food & WineFood & Wine

Food & Wine July 2018

FOOD & WINE® magazine now offers its delicious recipes, simple wine-buying advice, great entertaining ideas and fun trend-spotting in a spectacular digital format. Each issue includes each and every word and recipe from the print magazine.

United States
Meredith Corporation
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12 Numéros


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july recipes

RAY ISLE (PORTRAIT: CARY NORTON)WHITE PORT AND TONICThis is possibly the lightest summer cocktail: super-refreshing, very low in alcohol, and dead simple. Fill a glass with ice; add 1/2 oz. white port (try Dow’s or Fonseca Siroco) and 3 oz. tonic. Stir. Garnish with a mint spring or a lemon wedge—your call.2016 DOMAINE BILLAUD-SIMON CHABLIS ($33)The stony-chalky note inherent in Chablis always seems particularly compelling when the weather is sultry. This classic producer’s basic village bottling is hard to beat at the price.2016 GROUNDED WINE CO. COLLUSION RED ($22)My nod for this summer’s wine to bring to a barbecue, this new red from Washington state is full of bright blackberry notes and a little oak toastiness. It’s ideal for sausages off the grill. ■…

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class acts

IMAGINE WALKING DOWN a street in New York City in 1988, stopping at an unassuming restaurant for lunch, and tasting the future. That’s what former Food & Wine senior editor Malachy Duffy did while scouting the first class of Best New Chefs. The restaurant was Rakel, the chef was Thomas Keller, and with the BNC award (his first accolade), Keller’s star was born.This year marks the 30th anniversary of Best New Chefs. To celebrate the occasion, writer Hugh Garvey traces the history of the franchise and the role BNCs have played in America’s culinary awakening (see p. 91). We’ve also launched F&W’s Best New Chef mentorship program, which pairs the class of 2018 with past BNCs, because now more than ever, we need to invest in strong leaders—both in and…

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from the home office

1 SPRITZ TIMEAt the first Venice Food & Wine Festival at the JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa, our signature aperitivo was the spritz. Use my version to riff on your own: Pour 1½ oz. Aperol into a wine glass filled with ice. Add about 3 oz. Prosecco, an orange wheel, and a splash of sparkling water, and stir. Cin cin!2 POWER TOASTERIn seersucker season, I cook almost exclusively on my grills and with my Breville Smart Oven Air ($400, brevilleusa.com). This compact countertop oven has more features than a regular convection unit, like a low-temperature setting that lets me hold big steaks for up to an hour after searing, which makes throwing dinner parties that much easier.3 THE NEW MATCHBOOKI still keep a big bowl of matchbooks at home,…

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the upgrade

“EVERYONE LOVES FRENCH FRIES,” says Kwame Onwuachi, executive chef of Kith/Kin in Washington, D.C. (kithandkindc.com). At his casual Afro-Caribbean restaurant, he’s reintroducing a crowd favorite from his pop-up days: waffe fries with berbere salt (recipe below). The Ethiopian spice blend brings a citrusy sweet heat to the fried spuds. He’s not the only chef playing with the fry form: “If we didn’t have fries, people would probably revolt,” says Todd Duplechan, the director of food and beverage behind J.T. Youngblood’s in Austin (jtyoungbloods.com). He’s recently revived the legendary Texas fried chicken joint—and along with it, the curlicue fries it served back in the 1950s. “I like how they bring me back to childhood,” says Duplechan. “I’m 16 years old at Solly’s fry station in Addison, Texas, again.”Kwame’s Waffle FriesACTIVE 1…

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the fry’s the limit

1. THINK OUTSIDE THE STICKAfter grating potatoes, Anthony Rush of Senia in Honolulu (restaurantsenia.com) sandwiches them between sheet trays, bakes them, cuts the potatoes into waffle-like strips, and deep-fries them. “The extra surface area makes them even crispier,” he says.2. BATTER UPTo make the State Fair Fries at J.T. Youngblood’s in Austin, “we fry spiralized potatoes, submerge in an IPA batter, then fry again,” says Todd Duplechan. “It gives them a little pop.”3. HOLD THE KETCHUPPunch up your russets with Onwuachi’s berbere salt (at left) or go all out with nori; bonito flakes; thick, savory soy sauce; and Kewpie mayo, as Shota Nakajima does with his hand-cut okonomiyaki fries (above) at Adana in Seattle (adana seattle.com).PHOTOGRAPHY (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): KYLE SCHMITZ, RYAN YAMAMOTO/MIDDLE MANAGEMENT, BRIANNA BRIDGES FOR J.T. YOUNGBLOOD’S,…

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cocktail hour

Gideon Sweet Mini MartiniSERVES 4Pour 3 oz. London dry gin and 1 oz. Dolin dry vermouth into a mixing glass, and fill with ice. Stir until glass is frosty, about 30 seconds. Divide martini among 4 shot glasses, and top each with 1 thin slice Mimolette cheese. Serve immediately.IS BIGGER REALLY BETTER? Not according to Alex Bachman, the mastermind behind the tiny cocktails at Gideon Sweet in Chicago (gideonsweet.com). “A classic martini has become a vat of liquor,” he says. “If you look at the history of the cocktail, it was originally around 3 ounces and served in a small glass.” Bachman is taking the cocktail’s fun-size roots even further with his version of the martini: a classic 3:1 London dry gin to French dry vermouth ratio, served in a…