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Gourmet Traveller

Gourmet Traveller June 2019

Each issue is packed with great dish ideas, hot restaurants and bars, entertaining tips, the best hotels and lavish spreads on some of the world’s most intoxicating travel destinations - everything you should expect from the Australia's premier food and travel magazine.

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12 Issues

in this issue

1 min.
editor’s letter

Idon’t believe for a moment that cynical old saying: those who can’t do, teach. Particularly after editing our special masterclass issue this month, in which we’ve collected the recipes, extracted the magic shortcuts and distilled the wisdom of some of the finest kitchen hands in the business. In our experience, the best artisans very often make the best teachers. Consider the mastery involved in this line-up: perfect pie-making by the team at Bourke Street Bakery, dhal tempering by Lankan Filling Station’s O Tama Carey, cracking pork crackling by Mike McEnearney, and breadmaking by sourdough maestro Igor Ivanovic. Our masterclasses extend way beyond the kitchen. Max Allen suggests how to stock a cellar (“always buy wines from your children’s birth year,” he advises, “even if they don’t appreciate them when they turn 21,…

1 min.
where we’ve been

Laura Jacobs, designer; Wanaka, New Zealand Sixteen kilometres and 1500 metres of elevation later, I was feeling not only on top of the world but sure I’d earnt the bottle of riesling we bought at Amisfield winery the day before. @laurajanejacobs Harriet Davidson, writer & editorial coordinator; Anembo, NSW Ninety minutes’ drive from Canberra is Brightside Produce, an inspiring organic market garden supplying the capital’s restaurants and residents with seasonal goodness. @harriet.olive Lee Tran Lam, news editor; Tokyo, Japan These colourful sake barrels at the Meiji Jingu Shrine sit opposite a wall of wines from Burgundy, France – the emperor liked his wine, too. @leetranlam…

2 min.

ENRIQUE OLVERA chef Make yourself at home, p106 Enrique Olvera is best known for reinventing Mexican cuisine at restaurants in Mexico City and New York, yet the chef’s true passion is the home cooking of his homeland. “Home cooking is a very personal affair,” says Olvera in his new book, Tu Casa Mi Casa. “It is impossible to separate our cooking from our family story. It is impossible not to carry, wherever your path leads you, the flavours you grew up with.” MAX ANDERSON writer Lord’s work, p136 Sab Lord has been guiding celebrities and CEOs across the Top End for decades. “But no question, he’s a wild colonial boy at heart,” says Max Anderson, after spending 24 hours with Lord in Kakadu. “My son and I couldn’t get enough of his stories. At one…

1 min.
what we’re eating

SEA URCHIN, BOTTARGA, TRUFFLE, SAFFRON CREAM AND SPAGHETTI, Serafino The introduction of a chef’s table within the Serafino winery restaurant has given chef Daniel Armon license to fly higher. The rich flavours of sea urchin and black truffle are a dramatic foil for light, house-made spaghetti. 39 Kangarilla Rd, McLaren Vale, SA. DAVID SLY, SOUTH AUSTRALIA EDITOR SCALLOP AMOK, Bensley Collection Shinta Mani Wild A refined, deconstructed version of the classic Khmer steamed-fish curry stars at this fantasy jungle camp in Cambodia’s south-west wilderness. Atop a bitter slok ngor leaf, a grilled scallop and oyster mushrooms sit prettily with a disc of fragrant fish amok. Prey Praseth, Southern Cardamom National Park, Cambodia. HELEN ANDERSON, TRAVEL EDITOR GRILLED RIVER PRAWN, Paste The argument: Paste, a polished modern Thai diner from chef Bee Satongun is Bangkok’s most…

2 min.
fiji rediscovers its roots

When Lance Seeto arrived to work in Fiji a decade ago, the culture shock was huge. “But in a good way,” he recalls. “It was a turning point in my life.” Familiar produce tasted different – “untainted and unadulterated” – and the markets were full of food he’d never seen before. Very little of it appeared on hotel menus, so Seeto went travelling across the archipelago. “I discovered fantastic ingredients and cooking techniques thousands of years old. It was a discovery not just of food but an intact culture.” A decade later he’s a dual Fijian-Australian citizen, executive chef at Malamala Beach Club, the nation’s first island club, and president of the new Culinary Federation of Fiji. The ultimate goal, he says, is to transform the Pacific nation into a food destination. Tourism…

3 min.
tang-ya yang

When you were growing up in Taiwan, what was a local dish you loved? My grandmother’s steamed fish: she’d buy birdlime-tree seeds, preserved in brine for half a year, and stuff them between fish slices; sometimes she’d use preserved plum, which gives a bit of sourness, saltiness and sweetness. Describe Squidlipops, the Taiwanese-style octopus skewers served at Formosa Bites, the food stall you run with partner Sam Gardener? In the beginning, we thought: don’t put whole squid on the skewer – the crazy tentacles might scare people away. Later, we were doing an event at Mona in Hobart – they do experimental things and support eating the whole animal – and we decided to put the whole squid on skewers, with the tentacles hanging out. And people loved it. What was it…