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Gripped: The Climbing Magazine

Gripped: The Climbing Magazine

June/July 2021 Vol. 23 Issue 3

Gripped offers the international world of climbing through the highest quality journalism and incredible pictures.

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6 Issues

in this issue

2 min
olympics and accessibility

One year ago, we had planned on this annual summer issue to have a heavy focus on the Olympics. Now, it will be the Olympic issue once again, or as much of an Olympic issue as it can be. Because we don’t’ know if the Olympics will 100 per cent be going ahead, most of our coverage and stories will be online. At the time of print, climbers Alannah Yip and Sean McColl had received their Team Canada Olympic denim retro-skater uniforms and were still planning to head to Tokyo. Plans might have changed by now, and maybe the Games aren’t going ahead, but we hope they are. It will be great to see Yip and McColl representing Canada, catapulting sport climbing on to the world stage like never before. When…

5 min

Himalaya: A Human History By Ed Douglas WW Norton, 2021 Sometime mid-January this year the sequestered mountain kingdom of Bhutan received enough doses from India to vaccinate its entire population of 800,000. Forgoing a panel of politically connected science administrators, the government sought advice from the Zhung Dratshang, a body of Buddhist monks. Religious study suggested that the first dose be both administered by, and given to, a woman born in the Year of the Monkey. As a result, it wasn’t until March 27 that Tshering Zangmo administered the first jab to Ninda Dema at the auspicious time of 9:30 a.m., after prayers were chanted and butter lamps lit. However; a mere week later, 85 per cent of Bhutan’s adult population had received a first shot. These events, however exotic and strange they may…

4 min
summer sleeping bags

MEC Camper +10 $85 to $95 MEC has been making must-have sleeping bags for decades, and the Camper +10 is perfect this summer’s road trips and fireside sleeps. The synthetic bag is burly enough that a little dirt won’t hurt it. Unzip it and fold it out like a comforter. The shell is recycled polyester with a DWR finish, it’s lined in DWR-treated polyester, and is insulated with synthetic insulation that’s 50 per cent recycled fibres. Good for you climbers hitting the road. Mountain Hardwear Lamina -9 $230 to $275 The Lamina’s synthetic insulation is designed for wet climates, where no matter what you do, the inside of your tent will be damp. It excels on backcountry missions into the alpine for weekend-long climbs. The standard mummy cut construction helps maintain loft and eliminates cold spots. The…

1 min

Metolius Wood Rock Ring $53 These wood rings weigh only 450 grams each, which makes them perfect as a travel training tool. They are convenient for small spaces and will help you build superior grip strength. There are three edge sizes to hang from. Petzl Spirit Express 17 cm $24 The Spirit Express comes in two sizes, the 11 cm and the 17 cm, with the latter being a nearly perfect long quickdraw for projects and onsight attempts. It has a straight-gate on top and a bent-gate carabiner on the bottom. It’s easy to clip and to grap onto during those don’t-want-to-whip moments. Arc’teryx C Quence Harness Women’s $190 The C Quence is one of the most comfortable harnesses on the market. It has a longer rise between the leg loops and waist belt, which allows you to…

13 min
route development in canada

Route development in Canada is brutal work. In Squamish, developers spend hundreds of hours excavating vegetated splitters. In the Rockies, trundling thousands of pounds of loose limestone is par for the course. In Quebec and Ontario, once lines are scrubbed and bolted, access issues may still prevail. The hard-working developers who persevere are chasing the spirit of adventure on untouched stone, the satisfying soreness after a day of hard labour and a gift to the greater climbing community. This article explores those who explore: Andy Genereux give perspective to his bold, ground-up ethics and the dangerous circumstances that arise on a fractured medium; Jason Green and Tess Egan uncover the hard work of developing sharp splitters in a rainforest; Dom Caron dives into the altruistic side of the craft, and more. Andy…

3 min
sport climbing shoes

Boreal Crux $160 The Crux has gone through many upgrades over the past 15 years, with each offering more advanced and streamlined designs. The modern Crux features a slightly downturned and asymmetric shape, which places the foot into a powerful position to take advantage of small edges. The soft one-piece heel cup provides amazing security on heel-hooks and overhangs. The upper is a vegan friendly synthetic microfibre. This is one of the best climbing shoes of high-end bouldering and sport climbing. Scarpa Instinct VS $199 Scarpa is a leader in everything footwear, from mountain and ski boots to the best technical climbing shoes available. The Instinct VS combines a number of their legendary shoe features which result in a moderately downturn asymmetric shoe for sending projects. It has a slightly softer construction and thinner sole than other…