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Gripped: The Climbing MagazineGripped: The Climbing Magazine

Gripped: The Climbing Magazine February/March 2019

Gripped offers the international world of climbing through the highest quality journalism and incredible pictures.

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6 Issues


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be the best climber you can be

This year promises to be the busiest at Canada’s crags. Climbing is booming with new gyms across the country, new school programs and entry into the Olympics. This is the year for climbers to become the best climbers they can be. Being a good climber is about more than sending hard things, it’s about being a positive part of the community of Canadian crag-goers. Chances are high that you’re planning to travel somewhere this summer for rock climbing, whether it’s for a weekend or a month. There are two types of climbers when they travel: those who plan and pay and those who go on a whim and dirtbag, both are cool. Whichever type you are, be sure that you respect the rules of the area you’re travelling too. At some…

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joe skopec

Joe Skopec is one of Canada’s top sport climbers and a leading hard-route developer in Ontario. He’s climbed nearly every route along the Niagara Escarpment, including the classic testpiece, Titan 5.14a. He’s established a number of difficult lines, such as Bromance 5.14b, Déjà vu 5.14b and his most recent addition, A Home Away from Home 5.14+. We touched base with Skopec shortly after his move to Ottawa. 1. Why did you call your new route A Home Away from Home? Because that crag was basically my home for the last 15 years (two weeks after the send, I moved to Ottawa with my wife). When I wasn’t projecting there, I was there on my rest days belaying friends and enjoying the outdoors. 2. Did anyone else try the route? I’ve had a few strong…

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Osprey Mutant Line $199 Osprey’s new climber-specific Mutant series includes an amazing selection of alpine, rock and ice packs perfect for your climbing adventures this year. Depending on what size you have, features include dual tool locks with bungee tie-offs, helmet carry (52 l and 38 l only), rope carry system and a narrow profile for efficiency. A top choice for alpine and multi-pitch rock this year. Scarpa Instinct SR US$175 Scarpa has tensioned the rubber around the shoe to help it perform on overhanging boulders and tiny edges. It also has rubber over the forefoot, lower volume than the earlier version and a sculpted heel. A good shoe for experienced climbers working their projects in the gym and on the rock. Arc’teryx Atco FL Jacket $450 One of the best jackets on the market for hard climbing.…

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New Mount Temple Route Alik Berg has climbed a number of big and difficult lines in the Rockies. In early December, he climbed a new route up the obvious gully feature right of the famous Striving for the Moon on Mount Temple. Berg said after: “Climbed what I think is a new route to the right of Striving for the Moon on temple a few days ago. I found above average snow/travel conditions on the mountain especially on solar and windward aspects. Certainly not open season for traipsing through start zones, but with some care there is some good alpine climbing to be had in the Rockies right now. Hopefully more folks will take advantage and get after it before it snows again and goes back to the usual winter avalanche…

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american alpine club 2019 awards

Honorary Membership For having had a lasting and significant impact on the advancement of climbing. Recipients: Jim Donini and Michael Kennedy The Robert and Miriam Underhill Award Recognizing the highest level of climbing skill, courage, and perseverance, with outstanding success. Recipient: Kate Rutherford Heilprin Citation Recognizing those who have worked to maintain and strengthen the American Alpine Club. Recipient: Thomas Hornbein The Robert Hicks Bates Award Recognizing a young climber with outstanding promise. Recipient: Brette Harrington The David R. Brower Award Recognizing leadership and commitment to preserving mountain regions worldwide. Recipient: Jeremy Jones The David A Sowles Award Recognizing unselfish devotion at personal risk or sacrifice of a major objective, in going to the assistance of fellow climbers imperiled in the mountains. Recipients: Dennis Urubko, Adam Bielecki, Jaroslaw Botor, and Piotrek Tomala The H. Adams Carter Literary Award Recognizing excellence in climbing literature. Recipient: Kelly Cordes…

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news flash

New Quebec Ice Climb Étienne Rancourt and François-Guy Thivierge have made the first ascent of Le Perchoir WI4 M5 85 m at Palissades. El Bon Combat Jakob Schubert has made the second ascent of Chris Sharma’s El Bon Combat in Cova de l’ocell. He suggested the 5.15b/c could be 5.15a. Shawn Raboutout’s New V16 Colorado climber Shawn Raboutou, 20, has made the first ascent of an old project at Valle Bavona, Switzerland, which is now the only V16 in the country. Daniel Woods Now V16 Daniel Woods, 29, made the first ascent of Box Therapy V16 at Box Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park on Oct. 29. Perfecto Mundo Repeated Stefano Ghisolfi has joined the most elite climbers in the world by sending a 5.15c with the repeat of Perfecto Mundo in Spain. Magic Line 5.14c Redpointed Lonnie Kauk sent his…