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Gripped: The Climbing Magazine

Gripped: The Climbing Magazine June & July 2019 / Vol 21 Issue 3

Gripped offers the international world of climbing through the highest quality journalism and incredible pictures.

Country:
United States
Language:
English
Publisher:
Gripped Inc
Read More
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6 Issues

IN THIS ISSUE

2 min.
dark horses, whippers and access

All across Canada this year, climbers will be sending new climbs and old classics. I’ve been lucky to witness a number of important Canadian ascents, from new 5.15s to the opening of grade VI alpine walls. Most of the time, the sends are recorded and entered into an alpine journal, magazine or, at the very least, documented on social media. But for some strong Canadians, the send stops at the chains and few will ever hear about it. Every climbing area has at least one dark horse, the local climber who cleans up projects and repeats the hardest lines. I was lucky to see a dark horse in action while in Skaha this spring. Willis Brown, a farmer in B.C.’s interior, was inching his way up Guy Edwards’s High Country on…

1 min.
gripped: the climbing magazine

Editor Brandon Pullan brandon@gripped.com Publisher Sam Cohen sam@gripped.com Editorial Director David Smart dave@gripped.com Photo Editor Matt Stetson matt.stetson@gripped.com News Editor Andre Cheuk andre@gripped.com Copy Editor Amy Stupavsky Art Director Warren Wheeler layout@gripped.com [roseandermain.com] Designer Cristina Bolzon [roseandermain.com] Advertising and Sales Andre Cheuk andre@gripped.com Account Manager Joel Vosburg joel@gripped.com Account Manager Dan Walker dan@gripped.com Account Manager Lorena Jones lorena@gripped.com Circulation Sam Cohen sam@gripped.com Production Artist Warren Hardy Digital Operations Dmitry Beniaminov Manuscripts, photographs and other correspondence welcome. Please contact Gripped for contributor guidelines, or see them online at gripped.com. Unsolicited material should be accompanied by return mailing address and postage. Canadian publication mail agreement: 40036245ISSN: 1488-0814 Printed in CanadaTo SUBSCRIBE send $25.95 (1 year), $39.95 (2 years) or $53.95 (3 years) to Gripped, PO Box 819 Station Main, Markham, ON, Canada L3P 8L3 Or call: 1.800.567.0444 www.gripped.comT 416.927.0774F 416.927.1491 Warning: The activities described in this magazine carry a significant…

5 min.
kyle dow

Kyle Dow lives in a camper on the back of his pick-up truck and when he’s not climbing, he’s trying to grow his business. It’s such an obvious and simple idea for a company, but no one had done it: drive climbers to the best areas and cook them food while they climb. It was a rocky start for Dow, but after a few years of hard work, his Hedon Rock Tours is rolling into a busy season. We touched base with Dow as he was about to embark on another tour. 1. How long have you been in western Canada? I’ve been living in various mountain towns for the last 12 years including Squamish and Revelstoke, with the majority of time being in the Bow Valley. 2. What is Hedon Rock Tours? Hedon…

1 min.
booty

Petzl Spirit Express Quickdraw $30 to $32 The Spirit Express has long been a favourite for many sport climbers with its smooth action and thick dogbone. For 2019, it will now feature Petzl’s new clear “string” to hold the rope-side carabiner secure in the quickdraw. This is to make inspecting the attachment for the carabiner to the dogbone easier. The dogbone will now come in grey. CAMP Universal Soft Piton $19 to $22 Many climbers still carry pitons when they’re climbing alpine rock or multi-pitch trad routes. Soft pitons are handy for softer rock, like the limestone in the Canadian Rockies, where you need something to mould into cracks without breaking the stone. The head angle of the camp soft piton provides good holding power for both vertical and horizontal placements. Update your piton rack…

6 min.
news

New 5.14b Desert Crack Wide Boyz Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall made another hard first ascent in the Utah desert. Their new route is called Black Mamba 5.14b, which they say might be their hardest roof crack yet. Randall said, “In terms of sections, it breaks down from a 10-metre hand crack into a short Bombay horizontal body slot, followed by another 10 metres of hands and fists. From here, you shake out the pump and go straight into a hard finger crack crux followed by a Necronomicon-style thin hands move or two. From there, you sustain the pump in some more hands and fists for eight metres to set you up for a second, powerful finger crack sequence on sandy holds, which then allows you to sprint (or collapse) into…

1 min.
news flash

Seb Bouin Sends Seb Bouin made the second ascent of Mamichula 5.15b in Spain, first climbed by Adam Ondra. Canadians Get Speedy At the time of print, the ifsc speed world cup season was half over and some Canadians had clocked personal bests (PB). Alannah Yip got a PB of 9.449 in Wujiang and Sean McColl a time of 7.17 in Moscow. Big Red Rocks Day Brad Gobright and Alex Honnold linked four Red Rocks big walls in only 10.5 hours on April 1. They free soloed Solar Slab and then Honnold led every pitch of Levitation 29, and Gobright led every pitch of Rainbow Wall. Finally, Honnold led every pitch of Cloud Tower. Jim Reynolds in Patagonia Jim Reynolds, 25, made history on the famous Patagonian peak Fitz Roy, by climbing up and down the 30-plus-pitch…