Taste of the South September 2020

editor’s letter

THE DAWN OF SEPTEMBER brings the start of my favorite shoulder season—that lovely time when one season’s end overlaps another’s beginning. I always bake a pie to send summer off with well wishes and whisper fall into existence. Yet, I find this month magical as we still get to enjoy the freshness of crisp watermelon and cold sweet tea while saying hello to the warm, carb-topped comfort foods that epitomize the South. Our Late Summer Casseroles (starting on page 51) are the ideal transitional dishes from late summer into those cool early fall nights. But we aren’t saying farewell to the abundance of fresh produce quite yet. In this issue, we’re celebrating Shelling Beans & Field Peas (page 43) in traditional and inventive ways along with a seasonal taste of…

dishing with callie spper

Callie Speer is forging a path all her own thanks to the success of her concept, Holy Roller, in downtown Austin. Born and raised in the Texas capital, the chef and restaurateur never expected to be at the helm of a space all her own. Three years have come and gone, but Callie and her all-star team behind the scenes still garner constant praise for their one-of-a-kind style and rebellious flair. We wanted to know more about her journey, and this is what she had to say. When did you get your start in the restaurant business? When I was about 15, my dad told me I had to get a job, but the only place that would hire me was this restaurant that belonged to a family friend. I was…

tastes & tools

1 CULTURED GURU WILD FERMENTED SAUERKRAUT Is there a more iconic combo than kraut and afresh-from-the-grill hot dog? Baton Rouge-based Cultured Guru certainly doesn’t think so. They fill each jar of their signature sauerkraut with only the highest quality cabbage from local Louisiana growers and keep things light and fresh through a simple process of wild fermentation. All it takes is a spoonful or two to make sure your bratwursts and burgers are packed with flavor that’s anything but basic. $9.98; cultured.guru 2 DELTA PIG BARBEQUE SAUCE There’s nothing better than the sweet heat from a rich and tangy barbecue sauce, and this Mississippi Delta-made brand is our go-to these days. Each bite into the vinegar-based goodness gives you a taste of barbecue bliss. Grab a bottle and pour a generous helping on…

new + noteworthy

BUTCHER & THE BOAR | Mount Pleasant, South Carolina Nothing beats a well-cooked steak, and the team at the Butcher & The Boar’s new location just outside of Charleston knows their way around a prime cut of meat. The top-notch, local ingredients and in-house butchering ensure every meal is just as memorable as the last. Stop in for staples like the New York Strip, Double-Cut Pork Chop, and Beef Brisket, and snag a seat on their spacious outdoor patio if you can. butcherandtheboar.com THE CHASTAIN | Atlanta, Georgia You know your meal is going to be made with the freshest ingredients when the restaurant commits to sourcing as much from their backyard garden as possible. That’s what Chef Christopher Grossman and the rest of the team have incorporated into the new program at…

figs

EARLY HINTS OF FALL mean it’s time to take advantage of the fresh figs available and incorporate this sweet fruit into your cooking and baking as much as you can. Different varieties of figs are in season as early as mid-June and can hang around until October, if we’re lucky. Some popular varieties are Black Mission and Brown Turkey, which have a purple to black skin; Sierra, which is creamy yellow in color; and Tiger, which is light yellow with dark green stripes and a bright purple-red interior. Fresh figs can be stored at room temperature in a single layer for several days or refrigerated for two to three days, but making our Preserved Figs (page 20) lets you enjoy them for weeks to come. Spiced Fig-Ginger Cocktail MAKES 1 COCKTAIL This refreshing,…

skillet pizza

Supreme Pizza MAKES 1 (12- TO 14-INCH) PIZZA One of the many reasons we love this craveable dish is its versatility. Get creative with your toppings, and make this family favorite all your own. 1 (16-ounce) deli pizza dough1 tablespoon olive oil½ cup pizza sauce1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese, divided1 cup crumbled cooked Italian sausage½ cup thinly sliced yellow onion½ cup chopped green bell pepper¼ cup pepperoni slices¼ cup sliced black olives¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano¼ teaspoon ground black pepperGarnish: chopped fresh oregano, crushed red pepper 1. Preheat oven to 450°. Place a large enamel-coated cast-iron skillet or braiser in the bottom third of oven to preheat. 2. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a 12-inch circle. Fold dough over a rolling pin, and carefully place on a large…