Taste of the South October 2020

editor’s letter

WE HAVE OFFICIALLY ENTERED A NEW SEASON, and I joyfully admit this is my favorite of them all! Fall brings cooler air, changing trees, and the start of a regenerative period. This year has connected me to the seasons more than any year past. I have found the outdoors a refuge from news and my home-turned-office. In March, I started taking daily walks where I notice the trees growing new leaves, flowers budding, fruits growing and ripening, and the air turning hot and humid. Now, things are beginning to cool down and wither in preparation for hibernation. This process is vital to nature’s growth—it revitalizes the soil, conserves energy for the colder months ahead, and brings a different kind of beauty to the landscape. Fall forces me to feel the…

dishing with cole ellis

As a child growing up in the Mississippi Delta, Cole dreamt of opening his own restaurant. But he’d be the first to tell you that he could never settle on what the final idea was going to be. That was until the opportunity finally presented itself about seven years ago with his first venture, Delta Meat Market in Cleveland, Mississippi. The butcher shop, restaurant, bar, and boutique grocer of fine Southern foods took his small town by storm, and now Cole is in the midst of expanding his hometown empire. We asked him to reflect on the journey that’s led him to such incredible achievements, and this is what he had to say. Why open a meat market-style restaurant? The thought came from my growing love of sourcing and knowing exactly…

tastes & tools

1 CHEF ALYSSA’S KITCHEN With all-natural ingredients, these flavorful spreads can bring fresh, bold flavors to a variety of your favorite dishes this season. In the mustard, rosemary and a special blend of chiles create a buzz that your taste buds will not be able to ignore, while the tomato jam is a tangy topping perfect for grilled meats and veggies. There’s no limit when it comes to using these versatile spreads. $8.99 for each; chefalyssaskitchen.com 2 GRACE + GRAIN SPATULAS You’ve got your go-to utensils, but your collection is missing one (or two) of these gorgeous, Georgia-crafted spatulas. Each one is handmade to order, so rest assured that each piece is one of a kind. There are also several types of woods available to choose from—walnut, cherry, and maple. Take your pick,…

new + noteworthy

BAR GEORGE Charleston, South Carolina Oysters and hot dogs don’t seem like a complementary pair, but the team behind this James Island restaurant has managed to create an eclectic concept that honors both. The menu, packed with options from freshly shucked oysters to Greek-style hot dogs, was designed to satisfy all kinds of cravings and pair perfectly with signature cocktails like their Perro Salado or “Salty Dog” (a salted grapefruit cordial with fresh lime juice). bargeorgechs.com 2FIFTY BARBECUE Washington, D.C. When you’re in the D.C. area and the craving for true Southern ‘cue sets in, turn to this up-and-coming smokehouse specializing in Texas-style barbecue. Their mouthwatering meats and generous portions are the brainchild of El Salvador-native pitmaster Fernando González and his wife, Debby. This is their first stand-alone restaurant after originally offering their briskets, pulled…

peaches

Pear and Butternut Squash Pull-Apart Bread MAKES 1 (8X4-INCH) LOAF Premade biscuit dough makes this bread easy to put together. 4 slices thick-cut bacon, chopped¾ cup shredded peeled butternut squash½ cup shredded Bartlett pear½ cup shredded Gruyère cheese1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary¼ teaspoon ground black pepper1 (16.3-ounce) can refrigerated flaky layers biscuits 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray an 8x4-inch loaf pan with baking spray with flour. Line bottom of pan with parchment paper; spray pan again. 2. In a small cast-iron skillet, cook bacon over medium heat until crisp. Remove bacon using a slotted spoon, and let drain on paper towels, reserving 1 teaspoon drippings in skillet. 3. Add squash to skillet; cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 3 minutes. Remove from skillet; let cool slightly. 4. Pat pear dry with paper towels. In a…

comforting & easy chili

Beef and Black-Eyed Pea Chili MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS This recipe is easily adapted using 3 cups of any precooked or canned bean variety. 1 tablespoon vegetable oil3 cups chopped yellow onion4 cloves garlic, minced2 pounds ground beef1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes2 cups beef broth1 (12-ounce) bottle dark lager½ cup chopped cilantro2 tablespoons ground ancho chile pepper2 teaspoons ground cumin1 teaspoon kosher salt1 teaspoon smoked paprika2 (15.8-ounce) cans black-eyed peas, drained2 tablespoons fresh lime juiceSour cream, cilantro, sliced jalapeño, and lime wedges, to serve 1. In a large Dutch oven, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add onion; cook until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add garlic; cook for 1 minute. Remove vegetables from pot. Add beef; cook until browned and crumbly, about 8 minutes. Drain well, discarding drippings. 2. Return beef and vegetables to…