The Return of Dining Reviews
THIS ISSUE MARKS THE FIRST TIME IN TWO YEARS THAT WE’RE running a dining review (page 48). It’s no coincidence this hiatus coincided with the pandemic. All the uncertainty in the industry — restaurants struggling to stay afloat, shifting their focus to takeout — made critical appraisal feel inapt. But now that things are stabilizing and places are opening (and reopening), we think diners can use help making sense of the new landscape. Enter John Kessler. Our new critic brings a depth of food knowledge that is rare. He went to culinary school and worked as a cook and chef in Washington, D.C., and Denver before becoming a writer. Among other gigs, he served as the Atlanta Journal-Constitution’s dining critic for 18 years. Since moving to Chicago in 2015, he has…