Beyond and Back
I HAVE EATEN A THOUSAND BURGERS, easily, in my lifetime. Precisely none of those were vegan or vegetarian or otherwise plant-based. That is, until I read dining critic John Kessler’s case for why such burgers actually taste better than their meat counterparts (page 76). This I would have to test for myself. So I went to the Epic Burger in the South Loop and ordered a Beyond Burger, one of John’s recommendations. It came piled with avocado, lettuce, tomatoes, pickles, onions, and vegan mayo. I lifted up the top bun — wheat, of course — to get a good look at the patty, which I was relieved to see was brown, albeit an unfamiliar reddish shade. I dug in. My verdict? I didn’t hate it. Coming from a staunch carnivore, this is…