Sunset的October 2018目录

ONE EVENING NOT TOO LONG AGO, I booked a last-minute flight from Oakland to Jackson Hole, Wyoming, to join the crew shooting the cover you hold in your hands. The journey turned out to be rife with random travel mishaps—a lost bag, a bout of altitude sickness, a heart-pounding connection in Salt Lake City. None of it mattered, however, once I was riding shotgun next to photographer Taylor Glenn in a vintage FJ40 and cruising through the wilds of Grand Teton National Park. I was rapt in wonder at the mountains, gobsmacked at my good fortune, and grateful I’d remembered one of my cardinal rules: Never turn down an impromptu adventure. Because this was my chance to meet Jimmy Chin and Chai Vasarhelyi, the husband-and-wife team behind the new documentary…

Getting some pretty heavy action in our home pantries these days: a cacao-and-date-flavored spread called Chocti ($13/12-oz. jar). The twist? It’s one of the latest offerings from Fourth & Heart, a Los Angeles brand that credits its modern success story to an ancient food staple—the grass-fed clarified butter known as ghee. “My goal was to upgrade pantry staples,” says founder Raquel Tavares (inset) of her shelf-stable, paleo-certified products. “My entire life history spilled into Fourth & Heart; it felt like it was meant to be.” Following in the entrepreneurial steps of her grandmother, who made cakes and cookies in her kitchen, and her mother, an ayur vedic practitioner, Tavares grew her company into the second-largest ghee brand in the United States. Chocti, with its kid-friendly glow-in-the-dark labels, can serve as…

Craft cider fans, rejoice: A new site has just made it much easier to buy high-quality, small-batch bottlings straight from the makers themselves. Cider in Love, the brainchild of former cosmetics executive Annie Bystryn, sources directly from independent producers, many of whom have never before sold their products to a national audience. Even better, the platform tells the story of these heritage cideries—from Tilted Shed Ciderworks in Windsor, Cali fornia, to Alpenfire Cider in Port Townsend, Washington—who use heirloom and wild apples to reflect the region’s terroir and dedicate themselves to expressing their connection to the land. ciderinlove.com. 2 BOTTLES TO TRY NOW 2014 Barred Rock Barrel-Aged Cider, Tilted Shed Ciderworks ($16): “Oak-aged for notes of whiskey barrels and vanilla—a perfect pairing to a fresh crisp apple,” says Bystryn. Dry…

Jimmy Chin is waiting for me at the summit. I took an aerial tram; the man behind some of the best alpine expedition images in recent years ran 5 miles up 4,000 vertical feet. Here, far above the Jackson Hole, Wyoming, treeline, the pro climber and his wife, Chai Vasarhelyi, start tromping southbound. The jagged peaks above and around us are glazed with snow and ice, a craggy wonderland lorded over by the skyscraping spire of Grand Teton in the distance. The 44-year-old part-time Jackson resident eagerly points out where he likes to climb, go for a run, and ski downhill when he is at work and at play—with him, the line between the two is hard to delineate. Chin—an award-winning filmmaker who’s climbed to the top of Mt. Everest…

GREAT AUTHORS TRAFFIC in quirky characters and intriguing plots, sure, but they also capture a sense of place: Think Cheryl Strayed and the heights of the Pacific Crest Trail or Henry Miller and the hidden-away world of Big Sur. The West—with its vast, open spaces punctuated by rambunctious cities—has long been a magnet for writers seeking inspiration, and that also makes it a prime place for a literary pilgrimage. There’s no shortage of opportunities to follow in the footsteps of icons (and their protagonists) at destinations like John Steinbeck’s Cannery Row, Jack London’s Yukon Territory, Raymond Chandler ’s Los Angeles, and M.F.K. Fisher’s California wine country. But that’s not to say you need to look to the past. The West’s literary scene is bubbling with a diverse generation of up-and-coming…

Bay area cookbook author and blogger Nik Sharma brings his whole multicultural life into the kitchen. Born and raised in India, he worked as a molecular geneticist in Washington, D.C., before moving to Northern California and devoting himself to cooking and food photography. Through his blog, A Brown Table; a weekly San Francisco Chronicle column about home cooking; and now his first solo cookbook, Season: Big Flavors, Beautiful Food, he invites readers to experiment with a dazzling array of ingredients in very doable ways. Here, in this excerpt from his book, you’ll find familiar Western favorites—roast lamb, brussels sprouts, spice cake—but with intriguing twists that open up a new world of tastes. THE WORLD IS GETTING SMALLER. The Internet lets us explore other cultures and countries in ways we never…

BLACK CARDAMOM PODS, although related to green cardamom, are larger and dried over open flames, which gives them a woody, resinous aroma. As with green cardamom, both pod and seeds are edible and used in sweet as well as savory dishes. KASHMIRI CHILES are used to impart a bright red color to many Indian dishes, such as tandoori chicken, yet are quite mild. CURRY LEAVES have a pleasant fragrance, especially when fresh. I grind them into sauces and marinades or temper them in hot oil to release their aroma. MUSTARD SEEDS The tiny black spheres are aromatic and pungent. Larger and more widely available reddish-brown ones (not shown) are slightly less flavorful, while yellow seeds are very mild. The key is to pick fresh ones; old mustard is bitter (test…

SERVES 6 TO 8 (AS A SIDE) /25 MINUTES Raita is the original savory yogurt bowl, and in India, it functions as a salad or a condiment. Throughout my youth, my parents served chilled bowls of fresh, creamy yogurt with cucumbers, carrots, beets, or even smashed boiled potatoes folded in for a salad with plenty of texture and character. It was always one of my favorite parts of the meal. This raita celebrates the different colors of root vegetables and can be enjoyed either as a main course (with rice or flatbreads) or as a side. 2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt1 tsp. fine sea salt½ tsp. ground white pepper1 tbsp. vegetable oil ½ tsp. black or brown mustard seeds5 to 6 curry leaves, preferably fresh½ tsp. grated peeled fresh ginger½…

THE SIDEWALKS OF THE TOWERING SANTO IN FRONT DOMINGO DE GUZMÁN CHURCH are crowded with people on tiptoe. They’re straining for a better view of la calenda, a lively and vibrant procession with blaring trumpets and drums celebrating Oaxaca’s 486th anniversary. Hundreds of costumed dancers—some inside giant papier-mâché puppets—promenade in a haze of firecracker smoke. Families from across the state join the festivities, dressed in the ancestral garb of their villages and carrying elaborate baskets on their heads. It’s a marvelous display in this low-key, low-slung place that serves as the same-named state’s capital. Here, traditions span centuries, even millennia. But they’re not what I’ve come for. I’m on a quest to find the new Oaxaca, a city so abuzz with creative energy you can hear it 3,000 miles away…

At the community plot she tended, Olympic Peninsula cookbook author Kate McDermott often helped create a budget-friendly “stone soup” of produce contributed by her fellow gardeners. Like the soup in the folktale, this recipe can be made with what ever bounty of vegetables comes your way. It’s from the author’s second cookbook, Home Cooking with Kate McDermott (The Countryman Press, $30), out this month. Favorite Drizzles California flows with vibrant extra-virgin olive oils. Buy now, or look for the new crop in December (check labels for harvest date). Here are four bottles we love: • Citrusy, balanced McEvoy Ranch Lemon Olive Oil ($25/12.7 fl. oz.; mcevoyranch.com) • Bold, herbaceous Wonder Valley Olive Oil ($33/12.7 fl. oz.; welcometowondervalley.com) • Complex, Sicilian-varietal Bondolio Extra Virgin Olive Oil ($22/250 ml.; bondolio.com) • Grassy,…

Dark Toffee Sauce MAKES 13∕4 CUPS / 15 MINUTES Melt 6 tbsp. unsalted butter in a medium saucepan. Whisk in 1½ cups whipping cream,¾ cup packeddark brown sugar, and 3 tbsp. molasses. Cook at a low boil, whisking occasionally, until dark reddish-brown, 7 to 8 minutes. Stir in ¾ tsp. vanilla extract and a large pinch fine sea salt. SERVES 9 TO 12 / 2 HOURS 3 tsp. baking soda, divided10 oz. Medjool dates, halved, pitted, and coarsely chopped1 1∕2 cups flour, plus more for pan1∕4 tsp. fine salt5 tbsp. soft unsalted butter, cut into chunks, plus more for pan1 1∕4 cups toasted walnut pieces Dark Toffee Sauce (recipe above), divided1 cup packed dark brown sugar1 tbsp. each dried, instant espresso and vanilla extract2 large eggs, lightly beaten 1. Preheat…

TRAVEL TRAVEL CHRONICLES 101 Bozeman Area Chamber of Commerce 102 Colorado Springs, Colorado 103 Discover Claremont 104 Explore Lompoc 105 Greater Ontario Convention & Visitors Bureau 106 Marina del Rey Convention & Visitors Bureau 107 Red Tail Ranch 108 Rush Creek Lodge 109 Travel Ashland Oregon 110 Travel Medford & Southern Oregon 111 Visit Carmel-By-The-Sea 112 Visit Central Oregon 113 Visit Santa Ynez Valley 114 Yosemite Gold Country 115 ALASKA 116 Explore Fairbanks 117 Visit Anchorage/Anchorage Convention & Visitors Bureau ARIZONA 118 Tempe Arizona BRITISH COUMBIA 119 Marine Link Tours CALIFORNIA 120 Alpine County Chamber of Commerce 121 Bishop Chamber of Commerce and Visitors Bureau 122 Calaveras Visitors Bureau 123 Fairfield—Gateway to the Napa Valley 124 Redding CVB 125 Stockton Visitors Bureau 126 Visit California 127 Yosemite’s Scenic Wonders Vacation…

Grand getaways Autumn is a magical time to travel the West. Check out our picks for cool desert destinations, wine-harvest trips, and mountain drives exploding with changing leaves. sunset.com/fallgetaways. Pretty palettes Getting hitched this fall? Our wedding decor ideas take inspiration from the season’s glorious colors: sunset.com/fallweddingcolors. #latergram This year Sunset turns 120, so we asked our Instagram followers to vote on favorite past covers. The winner? This beauty from September 1963, featuring Arizona’s Canyon de Chelly. Follow us @sunsetmag for future polls, contests, and more eye-catching photography!…

1 Be camera- or phone-ready Grand vistas, details of a plant—shoot whatever you feel compelled to shoot, inspired to shoot, with whatever tools you have on hand. Be creative and try an unexpected composition or an angle other than your regular standing, eye-level perspective. 2 Look for the right light With the sun low on the horizon, features in a landscape cast long shadows, providing depth and layers. Just before sunrise or just after sunset are also beautiful times. The colors in the landscape will look saturated and moody. 3 Consider scale I often put people in a vast shot (a climber on a huge wall or a hiker on a ridge far away) to give context and a sense of size. That being said, it’s also okay to leave…

Spring City, Utah: population 1,000 plus 2 urbanites facing a bit of culture shock. That’s the feeling that sunk in when Shari and Randal Thatcher waved good-bye to their Seattle high-rise five years ago and moved into an 1875 stone house in the Mormon pioneer town. “It was like we went to Las Vegas, got drunk, and got married. We thought, What have we done?” says Shari, an avid gardener. (He’s a retired project manager.) Their relocation to the burgeoning artist community, however, meant that the couple lived closer to their families and that they now had a little piece of history to call home. As an homage to the property’s past, the previous owner had built and left behind impeccably handcrafted furnishings, including an ornate wood-carved dining-room table, to…

LIGHTING SYSTEM Noon Home (from $250; noonhome.com) allows users to adjust the light in an entire space with a single touch. “When dinner is served, you can swipe to change the scene to Dining,” says Noon cofounder Annie Cheung. The setting dims living-room and kitchen lights and focuses attention on the table. “Once dinner is over, you can switch to a brighter scene in the living room for game time or bring the lights down low for a dance party.” Read more about Noon Home in our next issue, in a feature story about the 2018 Silicon Valley Idea House. POWER STRIP Name individual outlets with the Geeni Surge Smart ($40; mygeeni.com),and control each via an app. VIDEO DOORBELL Nest Hello’s ($229; nest.com) audio component syncs with Google Home, letting…

MAKES 5 DRINKS / ABOUT 30 MINUTES, PLUS TIME TO STEEP AND COOL While it is not uncommon in India to find fresh ginger blended into limeades, lemonades, and fresh sugarcane juice, it also pairs nicely with tamarind. 2 1∕2 oz. sour tamarind pulp with seeds8 oz. fresh ginger, preferably young and thin-skinned1 cup sugar Chilled club soda, seltzer, or water 1. Bring 11 ∕2 cups water to a boil. Put tamarind pulp in a small heatproof bowl and cover with the boiling water. Let sit until pulp is soft and mushy, 1 to 3 hours. Using a small potato masher or clean hands, massage and squeeze pulp to break it up. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer set over a medium bowl, pressing with a spoon to extract as much…

SERVES 4 (3 CUPS) /30 MINUTES We have two ridiculously tall coconut trees in the garden of our apartment complex in Bombay. My parents usually hire men to climb up the trees and cut off the coconuts when they’re ripe. The harvest is shared among neighbors, friends, and family, who put them to good use. Here I’ve seasoned brussels sprouts with spices tempered in fragrant coconut oil to introduce a hint of warm, tropical nuttiness. 14 oz. brussels sprouts2 tbsp. virgin coconut oil1 tsp. black or brown mustard seeds1 tsp. poppy seeds1 1⁄4 to 1 tsp. dried red chile flakes4 to 5 curry leaves, preferably fresh (optional)2 tbsp. sliced raw almonds2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced1 tsp. fine sea salt1 1⁄2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper1 tbsp. lime juice 1. Trim…

MAKES ONE 9-IN. CAKE (8 OR 9 SLICES) /1 HOUR, PLUS TIME TO COOL This rustic, aromatic dessert requires nothing more than a dusting of powdered sugar to decorate it. Because I call it a chai cake, it must, of course, have tea in it; I grind Darjeeling leaves into the flour. 3⁄4 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature, cubed, plus more for pan2 tbsp. loose-leaf Darjeeling or other black tea leaves2 cups all-purpose flour2 tsp. baking powder¼ tsp. each baking soda and fine sea salt1 tbsp. Chai Masala (above)2 large Fuji or Granny Smith apples1¼ cups packed light brown sugar4 large eggs, at room temperature2 tbsp. powdered sugar 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Butter a 9-in. round baking pan and line bottom with parchment paper. 2. Grind tea leaves…

SERVES 6 TO 8 / 21∕2 HOURS 1 medium head green cabbage, cut in 8 wedges through core2 medium yellow onions, quartered7 bottles (12 oz. each) mild lager, such as Coors1 head garlic, smashed and peeledSeveral sprigs thyme1 sprig rosemary (5 to 8 in.)11∕2 lbs. fingerling potatoes21∕2 lbs. cooked firm sausages (a mix of bratwurst, hot dogs, and linguiça)2 bunches green onions, ends trimmedChopped parsley and a few sprigs, for servingGrainy mustard, for serving 1. Skewer each cabbage and yellow onion piece separately crosswise through the center with a slender wooden skewer (it pierces more easily than a thicker skewer). Cut skewers fairly short with kitchen scissors so they’ll fit in a stockpot. 2. Meanwhile, about 2 hours before you want to eat, bring 5 cups water and the lager…

“We like to think John Dougherty was a sea captain,” says designer Megan Butcher of the inspiration behind her firm’s latest project: JD House, an eight-room retreat in the quaint coastal village of Mendocino. Named for its 19th-century former owner, the recently restored bed-and-breakfast—which includes a historic water tower and a cabin with Dutch doors—got a makeover that stripped away the doilies and updated the interiors with white shiplap walls, patinated wood floors, and furnishings fit for city-slicker visitors. Midcentury-style beds with caramel-leather headboards and clear acrylic coffee tables are juxtaposed with antique writing desks and Persian rugs. Sparse yet cozy amenities (soaking tubs, wood-burning fireplaces) do little to dominate your attention—and that’s precisely the point. “When you look out the windows, all you see is ocean,” says Butcher of…

Dry Gardens: High Style for Low Water Gardens (Rizzoli; $55) With a foreword by Bay Area plant maven Flora Grubb, this sophisticated xeriscaping bible serves up stunning design ideas for environmentally friendly landscapes. How to Raise a Plant and Make It Love You Back. (Laurence King Publishing; $17) Born out of a cross-country, succulent-sharing friendship, popular Instagram account @houseplantclub is behind this fun houseplant primer. Terrain: Ideas and Inspiration for Decorating the Home and Garden (Artisan; $35) A crafty guide to plants as decor, this eponymous tome from Anthropologie’s sister brand provides rustic-chic project ideas for incorporating botanical elements into your home.…

PERFECT DAY Known as a gateway to Olympic National Park, Port Angeles is a stone’s throw from 7,000-foot peaks and miles of trails. But this historically blue-collar town is more than a hiker’s pit stop. (Though the locals—park rangers, shipyard workers, and coast guard pilots among them—tend to rank high on the nature-loving scale.) A ferry ride away from British Columbia’s Victoria and a leisurely drive to Seattle, downtown beckons with indie bookstores, vintage finds, and fresh seafood. Best of all, the former timber town’s Elwha River is flush with salmon, thanks to 2014’s dam-removal project (the largest in U.S. history). The fish now run free, much like Port Angeles itself. 8 A.M. Tuck into a hearty egg scramble with hash browns at First Street Haven (360/457-0352), a narrow diner…

LANDSCAPE DESIGNER JOHN GREENLEE IS serious about seasons. No matter what month it may be on the calendar—yes, even in October—he believes there should be moments that stop you in your tracks. At this sprawling wine-country estate, Greenlee and owners Sue Bloch and Igor Khandros have spent the past decade carving out an impressive five acres to do exactly that. “Just because we’re in California,” says Greenlee, “it doesn’t mean we can’t have fall color.” The former kids’ day camp and party pad of an ex-NFL player now features rolling meadows, forest enclaves, pondside views, and a collection of more than 200 Japanese maples and conifers. The result is lush and soothing through spring and summer but also ripe with eye-catching texture and glorious foliage that evokes classic New England…

ROCKY MOUNTAINS Your CHECKLIST PLANT Set out bulbs of Iris histrioides ‘Katharine’s Gold’ for cold and snow-defying pale yellow flowers next March. At only 6 inches in height, this rock garden iris is perfect for water-wise beds sited in full sun, where they can dry out in summer. Jazz up porch pots by pulling out tired annuals and replacing them with chrysanthemums that are available in a wide range of fall colors. Try Glow Girl Spiraea betulifolia for a small, easygoing shrub with pink buds that open to frothy white flowers in spring. The lime green foliage turns burgundy-red this time of year. Site in full sun and keep moderately moist. Start a ‘North Star’ cherry—a dwarf, tart variety that tops out at 10 to 12 feet. Ideal for smaller yards,…

GRINDING breaks down the structure of a spice and releases the flavor. I use a sturdy mortar and pestle to grind most dry and wet ingredients. To get a fine powder, add a small quantity of an abrasive, such as salt or sugar. BRUISING AND CHOPPING herbs and spices before using helps release their flavor. For garlic or cardamom pods, I rub the outside with the flat of a knife, just enough to open them up. TOASTING reduces the bitterness or magnifies the flavor of a whole spice like cumin seed (it’s a good way to revive dried spices that have been sitting in your pantry for a while). Heat a dry skillet over medium-high heat, add the spice, and toast, swirling. Be vigilant: The darker the spice, the faster…

SERVES 4 / 1 HOUR Three of the most popular sources of protein in Indian cuisine are goat, lamb (mutton), and dal (an umbrella term for split lentils, peas, and beans). So it’s no surprise that lamb and lentils appear together in dishes across India. Inspired by tradition, I created this dish of chops served over a spiced stew of red lentils. A bowl of plain rice is the ideal accompaniment. LAMB CHOPS 4 lamb loin chops (1¼ to 1½ lbs. total; about 1¼ in. thick), fat trimmed to¼ in. 1 tsp. ground Kashmiri chiles (or use ¼ tsp. cayenne and 3 ¼ tsp. sweet paprika) 1 tsp. each fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided LENTILS ½ cup red lentils2 tbsp. vegetable…

FAMILY ROOM Homeowner and designer Katie Hackworth snuggles with Stuart, one of her two rescue dogs, on a favorite armchair.“This room is all about comfort—plush seating, a soft rug, and a round table for propping up feet,” she says. Juliet Chair in Vintage Flax,$3,105; ciscohome.net. Three-Arm MFL-3 Standing Floor Lamp in black, $575; franceandson.com. Copeland Cocktail Table, $2,495; jaysonhome.com. Current No. 2 print by Jessica Cantlin, pricing available upon request; winstonwachter.com. Seattle’s Katie Hackworth is no stranger to reinvention. When she took a hiatus from her graphic design career to spend time with daughters Gracie and Sadie (now 13 and 11), she focused her creative energy on designing and building two houses—one right after another—for her family.Hackworth found herself utterly immersed in the process, absorbing all she could from her…

In 2016, when Nicole Yamanaka moved into her grandparents’ old house in Mountain View, she and her then-fiancé, Byron, became the proud caretakers of two large Hachiya persimmon trees in the yard. Throughout Nicole’s childhood, her grandparents would pick, airdry, and hand-massage the fruit each year to create hoshigaki, a succulent and naturally sugar-frosted Japanese delicacy often served as a snack. The technique, which goes back centuries, came to California with Japanese American farmers. Nicole (pictured on the left below), a chiropractor, and Byron (far right), a data analyst, decided it was their turn to carry on the tradition. The couple’s first harvest came a week before their wedding, and the just-ripened fruit needed to be processed right away. “We had more than 900 persimmons! Our friends came and helped,”…

SERVES 4 TO 6/45 MINUTES 11∕3 cups polenta About1 tsp. kosher salt, divided3 mild or spicy Italian sausages, casings removed, torn into 1-in. chunks1 head broccoli romanesco (about 1 lb.), trimmed and cut into florets1 medium onion, cut into 1-in. chunks8 oz. medium mushrooms, halved4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided3∕4 cup packed flat-leaf parsley leaves1 tbsp. fresh thyme leaves1∕4 cup toasted pine nuts2 tbsp. drained jarred capers Zest of 1 lemon Juice of 1∕2 lemon3 tbsp. unsalted butter1∕3 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese, plus shavings for serving 1. Preheat oven to 450°. In a 2-qt. glass measuring cup or microwave-safe bowl, combine polenta, 5 cups water, and½ tsp. salt. Microwave, stirring every 5 minutes or so, until polenta is thick and tender, 25 to 30 minutes total. 2. Meanwhile, on…