Vogue的September 2019目录

When we first see her, she’s a blur, moving back and forth behind a chain-link fence. Then the camera pulls back, revealing a young woman, lithe and blonde, playing tennis but only half-seriously, in a white dress with red piping. We are in Ferrara; it is 1938, and though Italy has been Fascist for more than a decade, Mussolini’s recent alliance with Hitler has brought new racial laws to the formerly tolerant country. Italian Jews—a tiny and, for the most part, highly assimilated minority—are suddenly excluded from holding office or attending public school; their books are banned; they can no longer marry non-Jews or even employ them as servants. The local tennis club also expels them. So Micòl Finzi-Contini, the girl in the white dress, and her brother, Alberto—Jewish aristocrats…

“If handweaving is to regain actual influence on contemporary life,” Anni Albers once wrote, “approved repetition has to be replaced with the adventure of new exploring.” This might have been the mantra of the German Modernist artist, whose work ranged from wall hangings to upholstery to drapery, all of which blended the structural considerations of textile with a painterly sense of form and color. A member of the Bauhaus school—which sought to marry the fine arts with industry—Albers was initially relegated to the institution’s weaving rooms while her male peers dominated the sculpture and architecture studios. But she came to love the loom, seeing herself as carrying on the traditions of weavers in Mexico, Peru, and Chile. Now Albers (1899–1994) is the subject of a sprawling exhibition at David Zwirner…

With its resplendent rooms and gilded features, the titular building of Ann Patchett’s The Dutch House is more like a fairy-tale castle than a suburban home. So it’s fitting, then, that Danny and Maeve’s icy stepmother banishes the two children from the house—like something out of the Brothers Grimm—after their father passes away. (Their mother disappeared to India early in their childhood.) As the fiercely loyal siblings grow up, they’re held captive by the house and the lives that they might have lived inside it. The third novel from Ben Lerner, The Topeka School, arrives laden with the kind of future-of-the-novel hype that can sink a story from the get-go. And then the book itself surmounts it. It is ostensibly the tale of Adam, a high school debate prodigy, and…

When Charlotte Mensah started her career at Splinters, the pioneering London salon for women of color, learning how to manipulate the baby hairs around the forehead was integral to her training. “It was a big ’90s trend,” the Ghanaian hairstylist says of properly laying an edge, as the technique is more commonly known. Whether gelled into intricate coils at Chromat or fluffed into a fuzzy fringe that peeked out of beanies at Marc Jacobs, the wispy strands around the hairline emerged as a big backstage story line for fall. But the style is more than just a seasonal whim. “We are reclaiming our culture and traditions,” says Mensah, who spent her formative years doing her younger sister’s hair before racking up a bolder-faced clientele. (Erykah Badu, Janelle Monáe, and the…

Lee, Gloria, Marella: Truman Capote likened this trio of beguiling women to swans, and this year they all took flight. All three of them led lives of wonder, beauty, and tragedy (they each lost children too young—two to suicide and one to cancer). Nevertheless, in 2003 Lee Radziwill told me over lunch at the Relais Plaza in Paris, “I look back on my life as a landscape that has been full of richness, excitement, and adventure, having lived in the most interesting places at the most interesting times.” Lee still turned heads then with her lithe figure—clad by her adoring friends Marc Jacobs, Giambattista Valli, and Martin Grant—and eyes that Capote once described as “golden-brown, like a glass of brandy resting on a table in front of firelight.” (Those eyes…

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ALEX BROWNSELL Long before Bleach London became a hot spot for the city’s hair-color adventurers—with three salons in the U.K. and an inventive at-home product range sold globally—cofounder Alex Brownsell was just a 19-year-old with a makeshift salon in a room in her flat. Called Heartbreak Hair, as much for the leaky ceiling as for the relationship sagas unfolding in her chair, this space was where Brownsell’s experiments with dip-dyeing just the bottom section of lengths took off in 2010, earning her name recognition and fueling an underground trend. (Lady Gaga was an early adopter.) “It was an inspiring time, but people would come around with a bottle of wine as payment, so it didn’t really work out financially,” Brownsell recalls with a laugh. Nine years later, when Brownsell isn’t…

To discuss fashion in the age of the internet is to discuss an industry in fascinating flux. From the “See now, buy now” model embraced by Tommy Hilfiger, Alexander Wang, and others—leveraging the modern fashion show’s instantaneous reach via social media—to the rise of platforms like Rent the Runway, which apply the speed and convenience of the web to our day-to-day wardrobes, the contemporary fashion landscape looks a lot like Silicon Valley. And it’s little wonder: The allure of companies like Apple isn’t only in their powerful innovations but in their sleek sense of style, too. “In what we do,” Apple CEO Tim Cook has said, “design is crucial.”…

WE’VE BEEN HAVING BIG CONVERSATIONS, emotional conversations, about fashion lately. We’ve been talking about creativity, about inclusivity and community, about longevity and sustainability, about respect and kindness—about what we believe in and why. These values are being expressed and demonstrated in action by established international houses and by upstart labels all around the world—and in the conversations we are all having with friends about our overflowing wardrobes. Signs of a great systemic fashion realignment are percolating as we think about how our spending links up with our shared values. It’s not so much a backlash as a reconstruction, with new business models being built around upcycling, reselling, and renting—things that no one imagined a decade ago. As the era of Instagram (which was, after all, only invented in 2010) coincides…

Few actors, even those with a surfeit of endowments—talent, timing, luck, looks—find their way to a role that might fairly be called life-changing. For those whose lives are changed by a such a role, the next question is how to avoid being defined by it. Ben Platt didn’t stumble tenderfooted into the title character of Dear Evan Hansen, the musical in which his superheated, sung-through-sobs performance earned him a Tony, an Emmy, and a Grammy before his 25th birthday. He’d been working professionally since age eight, and singing on Broadway was the unwavering dream of his boyhood. But Platt has spent two years quietly wriggling out of the net of Evan Hansen, and he wouldn’t mind at all if he never had to say another word about the anguished and…

Before Pinterest,” Lauren Santo Domingo confides playfully, “there were all my scrapbooks. I’ve had them since middle school—dozens and dozens.” Sure enough, here they are, arranged in the library of her Southampton manse, beautifully linen-bound by master bookbinder Paul Vogel and sitting alongside extensive runs of World of Interiors and Lapham’s Quarterly. “It’s funny to see how my tastes have changed, but also how in many ways they are exactly the same,” she continues. Lauren admits that her latest adventure in homemaking is in many ways an exercise in nostalgia, an attempt to re-create cherished childhood memories for her own children—Nico, age eight, and Beatrice, age six. The cofounder and chief brand officer of online retailer Moda Operandi grew up in a stately 1902 Georgian property in Old Greenwich, Connecticut,…

Table of contents: 90: Coat, $3,900; Proenza Schouler, NYC. Mounser earrings, $225; mounser.com. Tailor, Pryscille Pulisciano. Cover look: 126: Front cover (left): Jumpsuit, price upon request; select Louis Vuitton stores. Cartier ring, $1,770; Cartier stores. Bvlgari ring, $2,500; Bvlgari stores. Inside cover (right): Jacket, $3,400; gucci.com. Ring, $2,300; Bvlgari stores. Necklace, $7,600; Hoorsenbuhs, Santa Monica. Tailor, Leah Huntsinger. Manicurist, Rieko Okusa. Editor’s letter: 202: On Swift: American Eagle tank top, $20; ae.com. Tailor, Leah Huntsinger. Manicurist, Rieko Okusa. On Adut Akech: Simone Rocha coat ($4,495), dress (price upon request), and belted bustier top (price upon request); Simone Rocha, NYC. Tailor, Pryscille Pulisciano. V Life: 270: Dress, price upon request; Saint Laurent, NYC. Tailor, Judith Grant. Manicurist, Michelle Humphrey. 296: Earrings, $250; rebeccaderavenel.com. Bvlgari Serpenti ring, $3,200; Bvlgari stores. Hoorsenbuhs monogram…

AS WE HEAD INTO THE NEXT DECADE, these 20 designers are poised to set the bar—and the pace—for what fashion will become. They are a global group, based everywhere from Los Angeles to Paris, and they work in many different ways—some of them operate independently, from small ateliers in Lagos or Manhattan’s Chinatown, while others run Paris’s most-storied houses. They range in age from their 20s to their 40s, and their imaginations run the gamut from provocative and intellectual to sun-kissed and seductive. What unites all of them, though, is their ability to see through a kaleidoscope of perspectives: Each is aware of their own world but just as sensitive to other cultures—and each of them is also pushing creativity forward while helping to reform an industry that, in the…

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Some chic women insist that from now on, they will wear only vintage fur. Others say they won’t go near any fur at all. But still others cling defiantly to their mink trench, their sable shrug, their fox poncho—arguing that fur is warm and gorgeous, and among the most sustainable materials on Earth. The issue appears to have reached a tipping point: In just the last few years Burberry, Chanel, Gucci, Versace, Balmain, Maison Margiela, and Giorgio Armani, among other houses, have stopped using fur. Donatella Versace expressed her feelings succinctly. “Fur? I am out of that,” she says. “I don’t want to kill animals to make fashion—it doesn’t feel right.” But, of course, designers on the other side of the equation maintain that fur is the epitome of sustainable…

Félix Auger-Aliassime’s Wimbledon warm-up earlier this year laid bare his extraordinary promise. At the Queen’s Club Championships, he beat Stefanos Tsitsipas, Grigor Dimitrov, and Nick Kyrgios—three players routinely mentioned as Next Big Things—without so much as dropping his serve. Though he just turned 19, he seems to have a poise and maturity beyond his years—something that, as much as his sensational tennis skills, has people talking about this Montreal native, currently ranked 23rd in the world, as a serious threat to the longtime rule of Roger Federer, Rafael Nadal, and Novak Djokovic. Auger-Aliassime began playing tennis at the age of four at the suggestion of his father, Sam, a tennis coach, originally from Togo. (His mother, Marie, is a teacher, and his older sister Malika plays college tennis.) “He just…

Twice a year, Christie’s hosts an interiors sale: Items range from Louis XIV gilt chairs to Meissen porcelain to Mughal Empire–era inlays. But among the antiques at this season’s sale, shoppers will find something novel—a line of homewares inspired by the auction catalog and custom-made for the occasion. It’s the first time Christie’s has commissioned such a project, luring in two tastemakers on the rise to spearhead the capsule collection: fashion designer Alexandra O’Neill of Markarian (a two-year-old label whose romantic gowns have floated all about town) and interior designer CeCe Barfield Thompson (a Bunny Williams Inc. alum who knows a thing or two about chintz). “I was having cocktails at the Lowell Hotel with a friend from Christie’s,” explains Thompson, “and she asked me if I had heard of…

This month, Alexander Wang reimagines Bvlgari’s Serpenti Forever Bag as part of the 135-year-old house’s ongoing “Serpenti Through the Eyes Of” series of capsule collections. The six leather handbags, which include a shopper tote, a duette, and a two-in-one satchel, are available in white, black, and mint green (an ode to Bvlgari’s green tea fragrance, Wang’s favorite growing up), and feature a modern interpretation of the iconic Serpenti hardware. “I found the original snake-head piece from the 1960s in the Bvlgari archives,” the designer says. “It was a nod to the sinful woman, and that was something I could relate to. I always think about a thrill-seeker when I design.”…

Is there such a thing as too much kombucha? As I wander the aisles of the flagship branch of Erewhon Organic Grocer & Cafe in Hollywood, where endless bottles of the fermented tea drink best described as “effervescent vinegar” abound, this strikes me as a very valid question. Carefully curated and correspondingly costly, Erewhon’s wares—medicinal mushroom-extract drinks that help you achieve “mental clarity!”; hydrogen-infused water that will “improve your athletic performance!”—answer the sometimes paramedical demands of its clientele, who could be picked out of a lineup by their Yeezys and man-buns, their toned midriffs and Outdoor Voices togs. “It’s like Whole Foods on steroids,” my friend Maya—a regular—whispers. Celebrities including Dakota Johnson and Miley Cyrus fill their carts with locally grown, organic produce; Erewhon’s minuscule raw organic cacao truffles (four…

Thanks to designers as wide-ranging as Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren—whose one-for-all trousers, tees, and topcoats are pictured here—and Rio Uribe at Gypsy Sport, the appeal of unisex clothing has reached an all-time high. Still, clothing that crosses gender borders is hardly new: Katharine Hepburn’s trousers gave a generation of dress-bound women legs, while the Stonewall rioters and the feminists of the 1960s and early 1970s expressed their rebellion not only through demonstration but in what they wore. Ideas of nonbinary dress have evolved in myriad ways in the decades since, with drag culture, genderqueerness, and unisex or asexual fashion all becoming more mainstream. It’s a universal proposition that’s about feeling comfortable—in your skin and in your clothes.…

You can’t talk about American fashion without talking about denim. Levi Strauss & Co.’s very first pair of jeans arrived in 1873 (the very same year New York’s Central Park was finally completed), and the indigo-blue cotton they were cut from is still practical, versatile, and—most important—democratic: No matter who or where you are, you likely wear denim. It’s a fabric without borders, not least of all borders of the imagination. And as much as it works for our “real” lives, it can also be daringly cutting edge: For every inventive reworking of denim’s durable and dependable beauty from Proenza Schouler, Coach, or Jonathan Simkhai, there’s the (sustainable) impulse to seek out vintage Levi’s and Wranglers from decades past. Which brings us to denim’s other winning quality: longevity. Jeans may…

ALL LOOKS FROM BYBLOS FW 19/20 COLLECTION “My design is a fusion of souls of different worlds. Fashion has to be an expression woven from social and cultural fabrics passing throught everything that is contemporary: music, art and the simple act of having fun.” Manuel Facchini. Remaking Italy’s original contemporary brand, the Creative Director and CEO looks to the brand’s founding ideas of color, youth and sport as the modern blueprint to its future success. Manuel Facchini is talking about the random and beautiful molecular structures of glacial ice. He’s sitting in Byblos’ new fourth floor offices encircled by floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking a steamy Milan day in the city’s Porta Nuova district. Glaciers, and the crystal-clear purity in the colors they cast when they refract light, together with the planet’s…

BEAUTY NOTE Timeless styling loves a classic makeup detail. Revlon Ultra HD Vinyl Lip Polish in She’s on Fire delivers intense color payoff in just one coat.…

TO SEE SPECTACLES 3, I have to ring a bell outside a Richard Serra–rust–colored steel gate in Venice, California. It is cliché by now to talk about the Oz-like enigma of tech companies, but Snap Inc.—as it was renamed three years ago, upon its expansion into hardware—makes it hard to resist. There is an eerie hush inside the complex, and not a single visible employee except for a security guard who hands me an NDA to sign and escorts me through a series of key card–access doors, trailing a few steps behind to make sure I don’t accidentally on purpose take a wrong turn. Eventually I’m led into an unmarked room with three designers, none of whom I can identify by name. The designers speak in tech jargon about “ecosystems…

The Row slipper, $590 Incontestably, the Italians make the chicest boat shoes, but leave it to The Row to elevate the style even further with these Friulanes—the traditional kicks worn by Venetian gondolieri—crafted in plush velvet with grosgrain piping and a recyclable rubber sole by artisans in northern Italy. (Traditionally, each Friulane was made identical to the next, but the sisters behind The Row know their lefts from rights.) PHOTOGRAPHED BY JAN HOEK (NETHERLANDS) Burberry pump, $1,550 Not only do these shoes sparkle, they’re also a shining example of Burberry’s dedication to environmentally friendly craftsmanship. The slick leather is sourced from a solar panel–powered tannery with a commitment to minimizing water pollution and energy consumption, and the crystals that decorate the knotted suede on the cap toe are lead-free. In…

While Dua Lipa was growing up between Kosovo and London—long before her career-making set at Glastonbury two years ago, or her Best New Artist nod at the Grammy Awards in February—she developed a bad habit. “I used to bite my nails,” the now 24-year-old confesses. Holed up in a Los Angeles studio in Laurel Canyon, where she is recording her highly anticipated sophomore album—a follow-up to 2017’s chart-topping self-titled debut—Lipa’s perfectly polished acrylic tips tell a different story. “I love nails now. Big, big fan,” the British-Albanian pop star says by way of explaining that she has stared down her early beauty demons, which also included a brief fragrance tryst with Curious by Britney Spears. These days, Lipa’s manicurist, Michelle Humphrey, changes up her nail designs every two weeks when…

Is there a faster way to shoot to musical stardom in the early 21st century than to have Harry Styles tweet a cryptic reference to your debut single, “1950”? Never mind that you’re an almost unknown 19-year-old Brooklynite referencing a Patricia Highsmith novel from the 1950s in a quirky homage to queer history. The Directioners will seek you out, and they will make you a star. It’s ironic that this is the ostensible origin story for King Princess, the appropriately gender-playful moniker of Mikaela Straus, whose startlingly innovative music could not be further from the engineered appeal of One Direction. Her 2018 debut EP, Make My Bed, is a tight collection of meticulously crafted pop gems, with Straus essentially writing, producing, and playing every instrument herself. The EP so impressed…

After the vicissitudes of a quarter-century career in fashion working for such storied brands as Versace, Halston, Rochas, and Schiaparelli, Marco Zanini has finally decided to take “a gamble on myself,” as he puts it. The designer describes his new self-financed Zanini label as “a one-man show”—he controls every aspect of the brand, from developing his first business plan to sourcing each button, managing production and communication, and even photographing the campaign images. “Designing the collection is 10 percent of the job!” Zanini explains over a delicious home-cooked dinner (Swedish meatballs with white cabbage and oranges) when I catch up with him in his light-flooded apartment under the eaves of a stately turn-of-the-century building in his native Milan. It was here that he photographed his look book and presented the…

Why is it that so many women who can, frankly, buy whatever they want suddenly seem desperate to don a ’90s Tom Ford le smoking, or fritter away an evening in a 2010 McQueen Atlantis frock, or cram their closets with other iconic vintage pieces from the recent past? Maybe it’s simply exhaustion with the mountains of product flooding the stores, season after season. Or maybe it’s a longing for simpler days, a fusion of nostalgia with a real recognition that once upon a time—even 20 years ago—clothing felt like it was built to last. Maybe it’s a vital commitment to sustainability, a recognition that because we all have so much—too much!—we are thinking long and hard about what we value and why. Maybe it’s a reflection of the larger…

“Rome is like walking through a museum. Everywhere you turn, you see something incredible,” says Irene Forte, speaking like a honey-tongued tour guide. The 30-year-old could be describing the historic Spanish Steps—or a luminous woman descending them, fresh from a volcanic-stone facial at the newly opened Hotel de la Ville Spa. Born into the Rocco Forte hotel empire (her father is the entrepreneur Sir Rocco Forte) and now its wellness director, Forte admits to having a convenient muse for the concept, which is set to roll out across nine European locations: “The spa is created with my generation in mind,” she says. “Wellness is a daily pursuit for us.” That holistic mentality plays out in the photogenic interiors, painted in a Southern Italian palette and incorporating lush plant walls, while…

One of the first to step out in a piece from Chanel’s Resort show—Virginie Viard’s debut collection for the maison—was Margot Robbie. The screen siren donned a powdered sugar–white skirt-and-jacket set of a nubby bouclé, but in lieu of the flirty, floral paillette-embellished top the look was originally shown with, Robbie opted for a plain black tank. Her swap only underscored Viard’s inspiration: Karl Lagerfeld’s successor says she channeled “the young Gabrielle [Chanel] wearing men’s clothing for a party.” It’s black, white—and chic all over.…

Reduce, reuse, recycle… repeat? That’s more or less the mantra for American designers leading the charge on sustainability. To be innovative in 2019 is to care about how that garment is made, who makes it, and what happens to it when we no longer want it. One recent advancement: upcycling—turning something old into something new. Repurposing old fabrics or cutting a vintage dress into a shirt means extending the life cycle of a garment, thus reducing its carbon footprint. New York designers have been particularly resourceful upcyclers—perhaps no one more so than Emily Adams Bode, who makes pieces from vintage quilts, antique bed linens, and even old napkins that are so beautiful you’d never think about throwing them away. After decades upon decades when the vast majority of our clothing…

How did sneaker culture take over the world? Start with a joyful melding of mobility and invention; add the distinctly American proposition that footwear can be functional, comfortable, and stylish all at once. Shoe companies have made it their mission to move us forward—through dizzying technological breakthroughs (some Nike sneakers utilize Bluetooth signaling) and efforts to reduce their ecological impact (Tread by Everlane, for example, are largely composed of recycled and natural rubber). Fashion brands—both here and abroad—have taken notice.…

BEAUTY NOTE Pair a structural silhouette with an ethereal glow. Shiseido Aura Dew in Lunar’s silver-pearl formula provides a sheer, incandescent effect while adding definition to cheekbones.…

IT’S A SUNDAY AFTERNOON in Tribeca, and I’m in Taylor Swift’s loft, inside a former printing house that she has restored and fortified into a sanctuary of brick, velvet, and mahogany. The space is warm and cozy and vaguely literary—later, when we pass through her bedroom en route to her garden, 10 percent of my brain will believe her wardrobe might open up to Narnia. Barefoot in a wine-colored floral top and matching flowy pants, Swift is typing passwords into a laptop to show me the video for “You Need to Calm Down,” eight days before she unleashes it on the world. I have a sliver of an idea what to expect. A few weeks earlier, I spent a day at the video shoot, in a dusty field-slash-junkyard north of…