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Conde Nast Traveler

Conde Nast Traveler October 2016

Condé Nast Traveler magazine is filled with the travel secrets of celebrated writers and sophisticated travelers. Each monthly issue features breathtaking destinations, including the finest art, architecture, fashion, culture, cuisine, lodgings, and shopping. With Condé Nast Traveler as your guide, you'll discover the best islands, cities, spas, castles, and cruises.

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9 Issues

in this issue

2 min.

Fatima Bhutto Novelist & memoirist Losing Damascus, p. 54 The airplane of your dreams comes equipped with? A printer. Planes are good places to work. Best room service? In Toronto, years ago while I was on a book tour, a waiter at the Fairmont noticed I had a sore throat and brought me hot water, ginger, and tea. In my fever and flu haze, I was very grateful. Best souvenir? A blue-and-white djellaba from a tiny shop in Aswan, because it reminds me of my childhood in Syria, where everyone wore them around the house. Brian Finke Photographer Tokyo Counter Culture, p. 80 Favorite spot in Tokyo? Bar BenFiddich was amazing for its attention to detail. It takes ten minutes to make a single cocktail. What taste brings you back? Old Bay Seasoning reminds me of Maryland steamed crabs and…

2 min.
the meals that matter

“You can’t afford minimalism,” our Swedish architect pronounced in her characteristic Scandinavian deadpan. With limited funds, my husband and I were renovating our first apartment—a nineteenth-century Victorian wreck within which we naively hoped to carve out a John Pawson–esque interior. She was, in fact, right. As with all things—architecture, design, fashion, and, yes, food—the simplest, most irreducible approach is often the hardest to nail. Think about the first time you had a plain omelet in France and marveled at the disconnect between the native custard-y consistency and that of its American counterpart, a dry, overstuffed futon of eggs accompanied by a slice of melon and half an anemic strawberry. There are a handful of transformative meals savored on foreign soil that you dream about forever after. Not because they are fancy…

1 min.
what i pack

“I did those crazy backpacking trips you do when you’re young,” says Paris-based fashion designer Isabel Marant, rattling off destinations like Sri Lanka and Thailand. These days, however, as the creative force behind six annual collections, she has no time for long-haul flights (in the coming months, Marant will also open her twentythird boutique, in Miami). Most weekends, she and her husband, accessories designer Jérôme Dreyfuss, and their 13-year-old son, Tal, escape to their rustic cottage in Fontainebleau, 35 miles southeast of Paris. Come summer, the family decamps to Ibiza for several weeks (it’s just a two-hour flight from CDG). The house they rent is on the “quiet side,” local-speak for the northern part, which is a world away from the clubs on the southern side. Her itinerary is simple:…

1 min.
on location

On Our List After a six-month reno, the Berkeley hotel’s iconic Blue Bar proves it’s still one of the most opulent places in town for a proper cocktail. The Design Museum reopens in November at its new Kensington High Street location, three times bigger than the original. And French food is having a moment in London, thanks in part to the bouillabaisse at Sardine on Micawber Street. Far left: Photograph by Julie Falconer. Still lifes by Tom Gorman. Clockwise from top left: Bag, bulgari.com; coat, pullover, and shirt, michaelkors.com; earrings, Bloomingdale’s stores nationwide; loafers, nicholaskirkwood.com; eau de parfum, tomford.com; sunglasses, Solstice Sunglasses; bracelets, davidyurman.com…

1 min.
“ as soon as i land, i go straight to a restaurant ...”

I travel with just one pair of shoes— like these Coclico boots, which basically work for a hike or dinner. I’ll wear a long skirt on a plane, such as this leather one from Apiece Apart, so I can sprawl out while sleeping and still be covered. And I always pack this hand-dyed indigo fabric that I use as a pool towel, sarong, or blanket on the plane. When I’m flying, I want my body to feel like I’m doing a cleanse. I eat a veggie-packed salad for breakfast: cabbage, lettuces, carrots, spicy seeds. Even if it’s 5 a.m. When you’re seated for hours, you don’t want an egg sandwich sitting in your gut. As soon as I land, I go straight to a restaurant I’ve been dying to check out. I…

1 min.
eat, stay, love

Having dinner at a celebrity chef–run hotel restaurant these days is a little like seeing Wicked in its eleventh year (there’s zero bragging rights knowing the fourth-string understudy is probably manning the range). Two new luxury hotels in Miami, however, are upending the value prop, landing unexpected restaurateurs with cult followings, who are refreshingly more hands-on. Last spring, the Argentine property mogul Alan Faena lured fellow countryman Francis Mallmann to his opulent Faena Hotel Miami Beach. When I visited in June, I spotted him patiently tending the grill at the Faena’s open-flame-centric Los Fuegos by Francis Mallmann in his signature faded black apron and blue beret. It’s not only Mallmann’s first restaurant in a major hotel, it’s his only one in this country. You can taste his commitment in the exceptional…