Cook's Country October/November 2021

AT A TIME when searching for recipes is as easy as typing the names of a few ingredients into an internet browser, I still find comfort in cookbooks. I rely upon cooks from around the world to do more than just provide me with ideas for cooking up whatever needs to be used up in the refrigerator. I consult cookbook authors to hear a word of encouragement, for inspiration and advice, for their storytelling. As I wrote in my James Beard Award–winning book The Jemima Code: Two Centuries of African American Cookbooks (2015), “A cookbook is rarely purely utilitarian. An author lures the reader into the kitchen through all sorts of tools: portraits, poetry, culinary authority, and the promise of delicious food.” Cookbooks tell stories that preserve history, memories, celebrations,…

AT A TIME when searching for recipes is as easy as typing the names of a few ingredients into an internet browser, I still find comfort in cookbooks. I rely upon cooks from around the world to do more than just provide me with ideas for cooking up whatever needs to be used up in the refrigerator. I consult cookbook authors to hear a word of encouragement, for inspiration and advice, for their storytelling. As I wrote in my James Beard Award–winning book The Jemima Code: Two Centuries of African American Cookbooks (2015), “A cookbook is rarely purely utilitarian. An author lures the reader into the kitchen through all sorts of tools: portraits, poetry, culinary authority, and the promise of delicious food.” Cookbooks tell stories that preserve history, memories, celebrations, and…

VESSEL FOR RISING DOUGH We’ve found a nice trick to help gauge a dough’s size as it rises and cut down on plastic waste. Rather than placing the dough in a bowl covered with plastic wrap to rise (many recipes call for a doubling in size), we like to put the dough in a clear plastic container with volume measurements on the side and a lid (such as the Cambro 4-Quart Square Storage Container or something similar). The measurements come in handy while monitoring rising, and the lid means that you don’t have to use plastic wrap. These containers are also great for brining. –M.H. Q: WHAT’S THE BEST WAY TO BRINE A TURKEY, AND HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE? A: Ideally, you should plan to brine your turkey at…

1 Holiday cooking often means lots of prep work—and kids want to help! Older children can help peel and chop vegetables, grate cheese, mash potatoes and squash, and whip cream for dessert. Younger kids can stem herbs, tear bread for stuffing, or put together plates of cheese and crackers. 2 Let kids choose a dessert just for them (and let them make it themselves)—giving them ownership instills a sense of pride in their final dish. Our ATK Kids recipe for Apple Crisp is a great place to start: AmericasTestKitchen.com/kids/recipes/apple-crisp. 3 Don’t designate a kids’ table! It’s so rare to have all your friends and family together at once around a single table, so let the kids fully participate and enjoy the special day (and use the good plates). 4 If…

1 Holiday cooking often means lots of prep work—and kids want to help! Older children can help peel and chop vegetables, grate cheese, mash potatoes and squash, and whip cream for dessert. Younger kids can stem herbs, tear bread for stuffing, or put together plates of cheese and crackers. 2 Let kids choose a dessert just for them (and let them make it themselves)—giving them ownership instills a sense of pride in their final dish. Our ATK Kids recipe for Apple Crisp is a great place to start: AmericasTestKitchen.com/kids/recipes/apple-crisp. 3 Don’t designate a kids’ table! It’s so rare to have all your friends and family together at once around a single table, so let the kids fully participate and enjoy the special day (and use the good plates). 4 If your family eats…

VESSEL FOR RISING DOUGH We’ve found a nice trick to help gauge a dough’s size as it rises and cut down on plastic waste. Rather than placing the dough in a bowl covered with plastic wrap to rise (many recipes call for a doubling in size), we like to put the dough in a clear plastic container with volume measurements on the side and a lid (such as the Cambro 4-Quart Square Storage Container or something similar). The measurements come in handy while monitoring rising, and the lid means that you don’t have to use plastic wrap. These containers are also great for brining. –M.H. Q: WHAT’S THE BEST WAY TO BRINE A TURKEY, AND HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE? A: Ideally, you should plan to brine your turkey at least one day in…