Cook's Country June/July 2022

MY MOM WAS a lemonade person. Most days, a pitcher of sweet-tart refreshment waited for us in the fridge to accompany our tuna sandwich lunches. Occasionally, though, a bright red fruit punch signaled that something special was on the horizon. On those days she ladled a ruby red concoction of Hawaiian Punch, ginger ale, and various fruit juices from my grandmother’s fancy crystal bowl into the small matching glassware (or paper cups) at backyard barbecues, at birthday parties and, of course, on Christmas Eve. It surprised me to learn that Mom’s special occasion beverage habit had cultural significance beyond our family. When I moved to Texas, I discovered the Juneteenth custom of drinking red soda water, red soda pop, and strawberry or raspberry lemonade as a tribute to freedom and…

MY MOM WAS a lemonade person. Most days, a pitcher of sweet-tart refreshment waited for us in the fridge to accompany our tuna sandwich lunches. Occasionally, though, a bright red fruit punch signaled that something special was on the horizon. On those days she ladled a ruby red concoction of Hawaiian Punch, ginger ale, and various fruit juices from my grandmother’s fancy crystal bowl into the small matching glassware (or paper cups) at backyard barbecues, at birthday parties and, of course, on Christmas Eve. It surprised me to learn that Mom’s special occasion beverage habit had cultural significance beyond our family. When I moved to Texas, I discovered the Juneteenth custom of drinking red soda water, red soda pop, and strawberry or raspberry lemonade as a tribute to freedom and independence.…

MICRO–ICE CREAM SUNDAE I firmly believe that a nightly microsize hot fudge brownie sundae is part of the reason that I’m a happy person. To make the brownies, I spray ice cube trays with plenty of vegetable oil spray and fill each divot with brownie batter (I often make our Basic Brownies [February/March 2005] and add 4 ounces of chopped chocolate to the batter for extra chocolate; it will fill up two ice cube trays). Then I freeze the trays until the batter cubes are firm (at least 2 hours), pop them out, and store them in a large zipper-lock bag. When I’m ready for my sundae, I microwave one frozen cube until it’s cooked through, about 30 seconds. Then I top it with ice cream and dig in! The…

WHEN WE TESTED rotisserie kits for charcoal grills, we didn’t expect to fall in love with rotisserie grilling. These add-ons to a kettle-style grill let you make crispy-skinned, succulently moist chicken; well-browned, juicy lamb; and more. The best part? A motor turns the spit, so you just sit back and relax while the food roasts and bastes itself to perfection. We tested three models designed for 22.5-inch kettle-style charcoal grills. Each comes with a spit, a motor, and a metal ring that fit our winning and Best Buy charcoal grills, both by Weber. Here’s how they work: The metal ring sits on the rim of the grill and holds the spit, while a motor (which you plug into an electrical outlet) turns the spit. You put the grill lid atop…

MICRO–ICE CREAM SUNDAE I firmly believe that a nightly microsize hot fudge brownie sundae is part of the reason that I’m a happy person. To make the brownies, I spray ice cube trays with plenty of vegetable oil spray and fill each divot with brownie batter (I often make our Basic Brownies [February/March 2005] and add 4 ounces of chopped chocolate to the batter for extra chocolate; it will fill up two ice cube trays). Then I freeze the trays until the batter cubes are firm (at least 2 hours), pop them out, and store them in a large zipper-lock bag. When I’m ready for my sundae, I microwave one frozen cube until it’s cooked through, about 30 seconds. Then I top it with ice cream and dig in! The texture…

BOBBY PUNLA GATHERS hisingredients on a long butcher block table and begins thinly slicing scallions and dicing red onions with perfect precision. Behind him, Jan Dela Paz fans the coals in a hibachi grill to a bright-orange glow. When the coals are just right, he grills slabs of marinated pork belly and butt until they’re lightly charred and crisp at the edges. Jan wafts the smoke from the grill up to his face, inhales deeply, and says, “That’s what the Philippine streets smell like.” The two men are preparing sisig, a traditional Filipino dish of chopped pork, onions, and chiles made sour with vinegar or calamansi juice and served on a searing-hot cast-iron platter. Sisig is what’s known in the Philippines as a pulutan, or bar snack, usually consumed with…