Scout

come on kiwis, get your gear on!

The borders may slowly be opening, but with the exception of perhaps nipping over to the Cook Islands for a spot of R & R, I can’t say I’m tempted to head further afield. Once upon a time I’d be eyeing villas in Tuscany and beaches in Greece but I’m quite happy down here in our little corner of the world for quite some time to come, thank you very much! Of course, the draw of those northern hemisphere holidays in our past winter months has always been their summer sun. The terrible truth is that without a tan, I look like a dead person, and I wouldn’t care so much – who’s looking anyway? – if perfect strangers didn’t keep trying to administer CPR when I’m just sitting on a park…

there’s something about kapiti

Something is happening on the Kapiti Coast, north of Wellington. Once rudely christened the Cup-of-Tea coast for its allure among the retiring population, this beachside stretch of settlements from Paekākāriki in the south to Ōtaki in the north is gathering steam as a go-to destination across the ages. As a travel writer, I should possibly have noticed this sooner. I’m a regular visitor to Waikanae because my mother lives there, but usually we just hang at her place. Although, a cheese scone at Long Beach down near the water is always a drawcard, as is the beach: west-facing and stretching as far as the eye can see in both directions, with Kapiti Island doing its Mona Lisa thing of seeming to be looking at you no matter where you are. Then, late last…

hey there, qt

If you’ve never been to Queenstown, you’re not alone. But be warned, it can be life-changing – a lot of people come for a quick visit and are still living here 50 years later. My husband is a perfect example. Like most locals, I’m very proud of my home town and I still get a thrill from watching the faces of first-time visitors when they step out of the plane and see the Remarkables slap-bang in front of them. And no one can believe that downtown Queenstown is a nine-minute drive from the airport. With its huge international reputation, how can the town be so tiny? There’s no need for a car if you’re staying in the centre – all the adventure trips, wine tours and Fiordland sightseeing operators do pick-ups…

hot ticket

In the spirit of life being about the journey, not the destination, there are three stop-offs everyone should make on State Highway 1 between Blenheim and Christchurch. Well, there are probably 33 but the three I know of are for getting crayfish along the rebuilt coast road, for whale watching or swimming with dolphins in Kaikōura and – about 40 minutes south – for a quad biking adventure on Glenstrae Farm (kaikoura.co.nz). Alastair Trewin grew up on this 670ha sprawling spread of stunning hills and valleys, and if you’re lucky, he’ll be taking your tour, either on your own ATV if you’re that way inclined or in the safety and comfort of his six-seater buggy. A character you’re unlikely to meet elsewhere, Alastair’s number-one phrase is: “Sh*t, it was funny.”…

my happy place

When I first visited Waiheke Island some 31 years ago, I experienced an epiphany. I exhaled. As the ferry pulled up alongside the old wharf, I heard myself let out a sigh of utter disbelief and joy. I had not realised, until that moment, that I had been holding my breath for a very long time. I felt as if this motu had been waiting all this time for me to find it, stand upon it and let it gather me up in its dreamy embrace. This rock that withstands the rhythmic murmurs of Papatūānuku’s breath, the soft waters that fold on her shorelines, and the lashing tides that ferries bravely plough, is my heart and home; and my favourite place is the Bottom end. Strictly speaking, it’s Waiheke’s eastern end, and…

at the end of the earth

I didn’t realise just how many New Zealanders have Stewart Island/Rakiura on their bucket lists! On my latest Girls On the Road Again tour there, we had 15 women booked and a waiting list of many more. The good news is that the travel brochures are correct – there really is something for everyone on this beautiful island, including for our group of older women sporting layers of Icebreaker and Kathmandu and sometimes even wearing pearls. Jeremy was our very charming pilot for the short journey from Bluff to Oban’s airfield. I’m not sure if it was by design or for the safety of other passengers that he allocated me a seat right at the back of the Britten-Norman Islander plane. I had just dropped into conversation, as you do, that I…