Wanderlust May 18

In this issue… September/October 2021 Enjoy articles on… The hidden jewels of the Caribbean. Our guide to the wide array of heritage sites and cities that await beyond the beaches. We go beyond Uganda’s gorillas to find hidden valleys, isolated rural communities and wildlife good-news-stories. 15 epic walking trails. These diverse treks will show you rare wildlife, unique cultures and immense scenery worthy of your perspiration. Uncovering Thailand’s ancient secrets by rail. We go on a magical history tour of the ancient capitals of Ayutthaya, Sukhothai and Chiang Mai. Meet the New Big Five of wildlife photography and find out how travel can help these endangered animals. PLUS… Dispatches: Armenia British Break: Shropshire Hidden USA: Tennessee Music Trail Indigenous culture: San Blas Islands, Panama WanderSleeps: Tokyo Off-the-grid: Vigan, The Philippines Dream Sleep: Cristalino Lodge, the Amazon Double Bill: Segovia & Salamanca First 24 Hours in… Charleston, USA World food: Cambodia

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If you’d have asked me 25 years ago to name my favourite countries, Zimbabwe would have been right up there. We had no idea it was going to fall from grace, and from travel wishlists. So, it was heartening to read Mark Eveleigh’s report on the thriving wildlife and warmth of the locals (p86). Places come and go in popularity, whether through politics, strife or simply by becoming fashionable. But with overtourism such a hot issue at the moment, it is heartening that there are still extraordinary places where you can escape the crowds; we reveal some great little-visited spots on page 24. I was wowed myself by a corner of Argentina this month – and a sight within it – that I knew nothing about (p62); and while Abu Dhabi isn’t…

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5 things we learned this issue:

1 Tunisia’s ancient amphitheatre of El Jem originally held 50,000 people, twice the city’s current population; p24 2 Elephants in Zimbabwe’s Hwange NP now outnumber visitors to the reserve by almost 200 to one; p86 3 The UK’s Hailes Abbey once saw pilgrims flock to witness its vial of Jesus’ blood firsthand – it was later found to be just clarified honey; p122 4 Belgrade’s famed night scene revolves around its riverside splavovi – the moored crafts that line its now wildly hip waterfront; p139 5 Falcon owners in the UAE know how to treat their birds – they even get their own special passports; p46…

3 min

Cameron Stauch Cookbook author & chef Since exploring the street food stalls of Ho Chi Minh City, captivated by the steam billowing from a pot of pho patiently stirred by a local, Cameron has adored Vietnam’s flavoursome – and often meat-free – food. He’s compiled his favourite recipes from the area in his new book Vegetarian Viet Nam. It includes one of the country’s most iconic – the banh mi sandwich (p17) Mountain, desert, ocean or jungle… which are you? Mountain. First great travel experience? Spending time in the kitchen at the Golden Temple in Amritsar, India, where I watched cooks prepare food for over 200,000 people for the Vaisakhi spring festival. Favourite journey? My last family trip, when we went to Sri Lanka. Top five places worldwide? Hue, Vietnam; Kerala, India; Chiang Mai, Thailand; Yunnan, China; Montreal, Canada. Passport stamp…

1 min
360° viewfinder

“Remember to look up at the stars and not down at your feet. Try to make sense of what you see and wonder about what makes the universe exist. Be curious.” Stephen Hawking CENTRE OF ATTENTION Lake Naivasha, Kenya Photographer: Art Wolfe From the ground, the sight of a solitary hippo surrounded by lesser flamingos in one of Kenya’s great alkaline lakes is one of those scenes that travellers dream of capturing. But change the angle and you realise there’s even more going on. Taken by celebrated travel snapper Art Wolfe as part of his Travels to the Edge TV show, this wasn’t shot by drone – few safari parks allow those inside – but from an ultralight aircraft. The result affords a rare glimpse of the pecking order of a lake where lessons…

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1 female-only travel is on the rise

Move over ‘mancation’, there’s a new trend in town: women-only tours. The world has seen a sharp increase in female travellers booking with tour companies in recent years, keen to follow in the intrepid footsteps of the likes of travel writers Dervla Murphy and Cheryl Strayed. The industry is responding, too. In 2017, 65% of those who travelled with tour operator Exodus Travels were women, so it’s no surprise that this March sees the same company launch its largest collection of female-only trips, with 11 tours taking you to places such as China, Costa Rica and Iran. But what s the reason behind this sudden demand for female-only escapes? “Women are embracing travel more,” says Lisa Eldridge, founder of the Girl About The Globe female travel blog. “Rather than wait around for…

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safety first

1 Pre-arrange your first night sure you your first night’s accommodation booked in advance and pre-arranging an airport transfer to your hotel – especially if you’re arriving at night – can help settle any nerves. 2 Dress appropriately Sadly, some , how you dress can often make you a target. Err on the side of caution and dress conservatively, whether that involves covering your legs, shoulders, arms or head. 3 Act confident you your way around a destination, even if you don’t. Carrying a local carrier bag and avoiding getting out maps or guidebooks in plain view can help you avoid unwanted attention. 4 Let other people know where you are going to be Always someone you’re heading, whether it’s via social media tools, such as Twitter or Facebook, or the people at your accommodation. Even a…