Wanderlust July - August 2018

In this issue… September/October 2021 Enjoy articles on… The hidden jewels of the Caribbean. Our guide to the wide array of heritage sites and cities that await beyond the beaches. We go beyond Uganda’s gorillas to find hidden valleys, isolated rural communities and wildlife good-news-stories. 15 epic walking trails. These diverse treks will show you rare wildlife, unique cultures and immense scenery worthy of your perspiration. Uncovering Thailand’s ancient secrets by rail. We go on a magical history tour of the ancient capitals of Ayutthaya, Sukhothai and Chiang Mai. Meet the New Big Five of wildlife photography and find out how travel can help these endangered animals. PLUS… Dispatches: Armenia British Break: Shropshire Hidden USA: Tennessee Music Trail Indigenous culture: San Blas Islands, Panama WanderSleeps: Tokyo Off-the-grid: Vigan, The Philippines Dream Sleep: Cristalino Lodge, the Amazon Double Bill: Segovia & Salamanca First 24 Hours in… Charleston, USA World food: Cambodia

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It’s back! Wanderlust’s annual Travel Photo of the Year competition (p64) is the biggest and best around, and this year you get the chance to win a trip to vibrant Hong Kong and fascinating Macao. We’d love to see your treasured travel snaps, so send them in – but please note that entry is not open to professionals this year. We ran a poll a few months ago, in which you said that Antarctica is your dream destination, so we’ve put together a polar special this issue (p108). And if that’s not enough, we also sought out some of the best UNESCO World Heritage sites for culture (p34). Lastly, has Wanderlust changed your life? I ask because it’s 25 years since the magazine launched, conceived on a trip to South America. Since…

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5 things we learned this issue:

1 Men in the River Sepik region of Papua New Guinea undergo cutting ceremonies to make their skin like that of a crocodile – a symbol of power; p24 2 Khor Rori, an archaeological site in Oman, was once home to the Queen of Sheba; p52 3 The Palmwag Concession in Namibia’s Damaraland is one of few places in the world where black rhino numbers are increasing; p88 4 Antwerp once had a network of medieval canals but they were bricked up by the 1800s due to pollution – they now form its sewer; p139 5 Architects tried many cunning ways to straighten the Leaning Tower of Pisa’s wonk, including making newer floors taller on one side; p141…

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Jasper Winn Author & adventurer Writer-adventurer Jasper has horse-trekked across Patagonia and circumkayaked Ireland. His new book, Water Ways, is an altogether more local affair, though, as he charts Britain’s canals and shares tips on how to have your own watery escape (p74). Mountain, desert, ocean or jungle… which are you? I seem to alternate between wide open spaces and water. First great travel experience? A four-month stop-start trip across West Africa on a £20 single-speed bike, playing music, pruning palm trees and crewing river boats in exchange for food and places to stay. Favourite journey? Always the trip I’ve just done or am about to do. Now it’s the months I spent walking, cycling, kayaking and boating along the waterways of Britain. Top five places worldwide? Morocco; Patagonia; the Portuguese coast; Albania; and wherever I am next – Japan…

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360 viewfinder

“Once you have travelled, the voyage never ends, but is played out over and over again in the quietest chambers. The mind can never break off from the journey.” Pat Conroy TINY GLIDERS Wadi Rum, Jordan Photographer: Fergus Kennedy Most of us are well-versed in Jordan’s natural beauty and ancient cities. But while we’d struggle to ever grow tired of seeing shots of Wadi Rum or Petra, it’s always refreshing to gain a new perspective. That’s something photographer and filmmaker Fergus Kennedy has done here, leading a paramotoring team high above its dusky dunes, their nifty mobility allowing a closer glimpse compared with regular aircraft. And it’s only when you see their colourful canvases dwarfed by Jordan’s great red expanse that you realise how epic its Mars-like landscapes really are. To see a full image…

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1 there's a new spin on microadventures

‘A little adventure is better than no adventure at all’ Work. Eat. Sleep. Repeat. It’s a dreary routine many of us are familiar with when not trotting around the globe. But, unsurprisingly, more of us are breaking the habit, increasingly taking quick, thrilling escapes where we can. It’s a phenomenon known as the ‘microadventure’ and can range from an overnight kayaking trip to catching the sunrise somewhere remote. But why is it on the up? “It’s a combination of people becoming more adventurous, but also busier,” says Alastair Humphreys, who first coined the term in 2011 and later popularised it in his book Microadventures. “We are extremely pressed for time and money – enter the microadventure, the idea that a little adventure is better than no adventure.” The notion of flipping our regular 9-to-5…

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quick escapes

1 Stand-up paddleboarding An easy sport to master, making it ideal for a speedy break. Rent a board and paddle along a quiet stretch of river as the sun sinks. If you have time, pitch a tent and make it into an overnight escape. 2 Stargazing The beauty of stargazing is that you can do it just about anywhere. Head away from the light pollution of the big cities and download a stargazing app (Night Sky or Star Walk 2 are handy) to work out what it is that you’re actually seeing. 3 Cycle a trail There are few limits to a cycling adventure. Bikes are portable and able to cover ground fast, but still slow enough for you to enjoy the surrounding landscapes, especially on long summer nights. Plus, any route can be adapted…