Wanderlust September 2018

In this issue… September/October 2021 Enjoy articles on… The hidden jewels of the Caribbean. Our guide to the wide array of heritage sites and cities that await beyond the beaches. We go beyond Uganda’s gorillas to find hidden valleys, isolated rural communities and wildlife good-news-stories. 15 epic walking trails. These diverse treks will show you rare wildlife, unique cultures and immense scenery worthy of your perspiration. Uncovering Thailand’s ancient secrets by rail. We go on a magical history tour of the ancient capitals of Ayutthaya, Sukhothai and Chiang Mai. Meet the New Big Five of wildlife photography and find out how travel can help these endangered animals. PLUS… Dispatches: Armenia British Break: Shropshire Hidden USA: Tennessee Music Trail Indigenous culture: San Blas Islands, Panama WanderSleeps: Tokyo Off-the-grid: Vigan, The Philippines Dream Sleep: Cristalino Lodge, the Amazon Double Bill: Segovia & Salamanca First 24 Hours in… Charleston, USA World food: Cambodia

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We’ve gone wildlife-tastic this issue, bringing you plenty of ideas for getting close to nature. Mark Stratton’s story of a pioneering eco-camp in Cambodia (p22) is inspiring, but makes you realise how vital it is that travellers support such initiatives. Meanwhile, I’m just back from one of the most extraordinary wildlife trips of my life – see where on p74. Both stories highlight how tourism can be a power for good. The same can be said for Wanderlust. We often hear from readers how the magazine has changed their life. If this applies to you, then please do let us know as we’d like to feature some of your stories in our special 25th anniversary autumn issue; email info@wanderlust.co.uk with the subject line: ‘Wanderlust changed my life’. And we hope to meet…

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5 things we learned this issue:

1 One reason Swaziland’s king gave for changing his country’s name to eSwatini was that people too often confused it with Switzerland; p18 2 The leeches in Cambodia’s Cardamom Mountains can hold their breathe for a really long time; p22 3 South Africa is home to 93% of the world’s remaining white rhinos; p88 4 Adding vodka to your water bottle will stop liquid from freezing when cold (or make you a jolly person); p102 5 Formerly The Blackball Hilton hotel in New Zealand included the word ‘formerly’ to avoid a lawsuit; p46 Cover image USA, Alaska, Katmai National Park, close-up of grizzly bear by Kinak Bay on autumn morning © Danita Delimont Stock/AWL Images This page Alamy, Dreamstime…

3 min

Mario Haberfeld Co-founder of the Onçafari Project Mario is co-founder of the Onçafari Project, a jaguar conservation scheme in the Brazilian Pantanal. He shows Lyn Hughes how they help farmers and big cats live in harmony (p74). Mountain, desert, ocean or jungle… which are you? Jungle. First great travel experience? Going to the Serengeti in Tanzania with my dad when I was 11. We’d camp every night and only have a shower when we found a waterfall. I spent my 12th birthday camping inside the Ngorongoro Crater. Favourite journey? A week-long trip canoeing down the Zambezi River at Mana Pools NP in Zimbabwe. It’s a fantastic place that’s booming with wildlife – it’s like you’ve gone back 500 years. Top five places worldwide? Pantanal, Brazil; Antarctica; Mana Pools NP, Zimbabwe; Sabi Sands GR, South Africa; and anywhere animals get the…

1 min
360 ° viewfinder

“Though we travel the world over to find the beautiful, we must carry it with us or we find it not.” Ralph Waldo Emerson IMPERIAL LANDING Cape Washington, Antarctica Photographer: Paul Nicklen Compared to Antarctica s relatively busy western peninsula, its eastern side is rarely visited. Merciless winds, rough waters and a month at sea put off all but the most determined. But those who do make it to the area around the Ross Ice Shelf are treated to rare encounters, including close-ups with some of the 240,000 emperor penguins that roam the ice. In this shot, the presence of leopard seals likely played a part in the bird’s fast exit. But these penguins can spend up to three weeks at sea fishing, so like all great wildlife shots, it proves how vital it…

2 min
1 guidebooks are here to stay

The digital age has arrived, they said. The era of the guidebook is over, they said. That was in 2012, when guidebook sales in the UK and USA had plummeted by 40% since 2005. The situation looked bleak, with some sources predicting that the last guidebook in the UK would be sold within seven years – meaning 2019. Next year. ‘There will always be people – like Wanderlust readers – who want to get under the skin of a place’ But the death knell for the printed guide is far from sounding. In 2015, sales in the UK and US rose for the first time in a decade – up by 4.45% - and they’ve only grown further since. What does the industry put this resurgence down to? “The guidebook becomes a trusted…

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why books are best

1 Quick and easy reference Books are relatively easy to flick through quickly to namecheck a restaurant or site, compared to trawling through a multitude of web pages. Speed things up further by using sticky notes to mark key pages. 2 Save your data Using a guidebook avoids incurring expensive roaming charges for using the internet on your phone. Even if your data plan includes overseas usage, having a guidebook means you can save your data allowance for times when you really need it. 3 All-in-one tool A guidebook doesn’t just contain on-the-go bits such as emergency contacts and useful phrases, but they provide history and culture sections too, putting the area in context – topics you might not research otherwise. 4 Doorstop! A guidebook might help you in the most unexpected ways. For instance, a hefty…