Bon Appetit November 2021

editor’s letter

The Bright Sides IN COLLEGE I LIVED THE DREAM and took advantage of my university’s study-abroad program. Atop a windy road in Florence, I settled into la dolce vita. It’s nearly impossible not to sound clichéd when describing that first encounter with Italian life. Like so many before me, I loved the idea of eating pasta virtually every night, loved the experiential learning that involved bold Tuscan reds and bright proseccos—to say nothing of that special indulgence, bistecca alla Fiorentina. Come Thanksgiving I was so happy that I didn’t fret when roast duck instead of turkey graced the table. It didn’t matter to me because there were still plenty of potatoes, veggies, rice (okay, risotto) and, of course, desserts. Not everyone shared my “when in Rome” attitude. Indeed, one classmate actually burst…

what i'm loving

Playa Grande Beach Club If you want to get away right now (and I don’t blame you), think about the Dominican Republic. Traveling in the era of COVID-19 will always be tricky, but Playa Grande Beach Club’s on-site testing option makes it easier to enjoy their gorgeous, secluded beach; local, casual, and sumptuous approach to food; and the region’s activities: hiking, snorkeling, tennis—and beach naps, of course. Their house drink of lime juice and mint, served with yuca chips and guacamole, is reason enough to return. Dunmere House I love the aesthetic of Dunmere House, Kahina Van Dyke’s second inn in Oak Bluffs, MA, which is an area on Martha’s Vineyard that has long provided a space for African American community, friendship, and fellowship. I imagine myself escaping here to one of its…

family meal

PUT SOME RESPECT on radicchio. Despite the visual similarity, this red wine–hued roughage isn’t actually a cousin of cabbage, but rather a member of the chicory family. Radicchio is sturdier and more bitter than other leafy veggies and has long been lauded for its antioxidant benefits—Pliny the Elder celebrated radicchio as a “blood purifier” in his A.D. 77 tome, Naturalis Historia. Use it raw to bring a balancing bitterness to citrusy salads (like the white bean salad on p. 18), or sear it on the stovetop or braise to mellow out its bite. Radicchio, Bean, and Feta Salad A gently infused olive oil and lemon mixture does double duty as a marinade for the white beans and a dressing for the salad RECIPE BY KENDRA VACULIN 4 SERVINGS 1 lemon4 garlic cloves, smashed¼ tsp. crushed…

green room

Safer Storage “Sustainable design,” Jones explains, “is not just about how your choices affect the environment, it’s about creating healthy homes.” In the kitchen, that starts with storage. “Cabinetry can be the biggest offender in terms of off-gassing,” she says, referring to the noxious chemicals released by the materials in many furnishings. She suggests using timber that is free of urea-formaldehyde (a toxic resin) and is labeled as FSC-certified, like the ApplePly birch used for this Aptos, California, home. DESIGNER Jennifer Jones of Niche Interiors HOME BASE San Francisco GREEN BONA FIDES LEED Accredited Professional; ambassador for the Sustainable Furnishings Council; founding member of the Good Future Design Alliance GO-TO MEAL Homemade pasta and marinara sauce LEARN THE LINGO Jones offers a quick lesson in sustainable vocabulary ZERO-VOC “There’s no excuse not to use it,” Jones says of paint made without harmful chemicals…

domestic partners

ABOUT EIGHT YEARS AGO I was scrolling through my Instagram feed the day after Thanksgiving, catching up on all the amazing bottles friends and colleagues had uncorked the night before. For the most part they were trophy wines from Europe. This struck me as odd. I couldn’t imagine Italians celebrating a meaningful national holiday with anything other than Italian wines. Would a Parisian open a Napa Cabernet on Bastille Day? It would be treasonous. American food heritage is deeply important to me; it’s the driving force behind my restaurant, & Sons, which opened last year and serves American ham every bit as delectable as prosciutto and jamón Ibérico. Ever since that day eight years ago, I’ve served only American wines at my family’s Thanksgiving, the bottles sandwiched between the turkey—indigenous to…

small island, big flavor

New Providence I CONSIDER MYSELF a culinary griot. As in, I’m a storyteller, and the unapologetic theme that underlies my storytelling is that each major island in my native Bahamas has its own unique flavor. The Bahamas is an archipelago of 700 islands, so let’s start with New Providence, where I grew up and honed my skills as a chef. This island capital, which is only 21 by seven square miles, is a melting pot of natives, immigrants, and tourists, which influences the food culture. Here you’ll find burgeoning craft cocktail bars alongside conch salad stands and restaurants featuring the food of fellow islands the world over (Thai curries!) a short drive away from no-frills kitchens focused on Bahamian cooking. These are the restaurants, bars, and shops I visit again and…