Wine Spectator July 31, 2021

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This issue is anchored by our annual tasting report on California Chardonnay, a feature that has become as much a rite of summer as pouring the delicious white wines themselves. But it’s not the same old story. In looking closely at the state’s new releases, it’s apparent there is a revolution underway. The big, buttery, oaky versions that once defined California Chardonnay are yielding ground to renditions that offer greater refinement and finesse while maintaining power and intensity. Much of this evolution is attributable to winemaking approaches borrowed from Burgundy, and the result is an explosion of quality. Kim Marcus, Napa bureau chief and lead taster for California Chardonnay, reports that he has tasted more than 400 wines in blind tastings over the past year, with nearly 200 of them earning outstanding…

When the massive container ship Ever Given managed to wedge itself sideways in the Suez Canal on March 23, blocking traffic for nearly a week, it provided a fitting symbol for the state of global shipping in the past year. And while dredging, tug boats and the high tide of a full moon freed the ship, the shipping slowdowns continue. For wine lovers, that means some of their favorites may not be on store shelves any time soon. Importers breathed a sigh of relief when the Biden administration paused tariffs on wines from France, Spain and Germany. But they continue to face a major challenge: It has become increasingly difficult to get wines, or any cargo for that matter, to the United States. While global shipping has become a logistical nightmare for…

France’s vintners have endured a brutal spring as multiple nights of frost in April and May decimated young vine buds, reducing the size of the 2021 vintage before the grapes had even appeared. The Arctic blasts began on April 6, and numerous types of crops have been hit. The government has declared a national agricultural disaster. The damage touched almost every region. In Bordeaux, early waves of freezing weather damaged buds in parts of the Right Bank, Entré-Deux-Mers and Sauternes. Another wave in the first week of May impacted the Médoc. “Champagne was affected by an eight-night episode of severe frost,” said a spokesperson for the Comité Champagne. “Overall, it is estimated that 25% to 30% of the buds have been destroyed across the appellation.” In Burgundy, early-ripening plots on the Côtes d’Or…

As vintners and scientists search for ways to increase the sustainability of farming and winemaking practices, some are looking to give grape pomace new life. This byproduct of winemaking accounts for thousands of tons of waste annually. Past research has suggested alternative uses from grapeseed oil to biofuel to beauty products. Now, a study suggests that these skins, stems and seeds could be a potential health supplement. Researchers at University of California, Davis, found that pomace from Chardonnay grapes contains significant amounts of oligosaccharides, a type of carbohydrate found in a variety of plant and human tissues. Studies on oligosaccharides show that the compound helps promote immune and intestinal health. The U.C., Davis, team partnered with Jackson Family Wines and Sonomaceuticals, a firm founded by Jackson Family’s Barbara Banke and Peggy Furth…

Napa’s Newton Vineyards property was heavily damaged in the 2020 wine country wildfires. The 500-acre property had 68 acres under vine and was celebrating its 40th anniversary when the Glass Fire ignited in September 2020. Just 5 acres survived, says estate director Jean-Baptiste Rivail. But from every difficult situation comes hope and the chance to improve. An ambitious rebuild effort is already under way, including clearing dead trees and preparing new vines. “We want to come back in a way that continues what Newton stands for, so we will not rush,” says Rivail.…