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Climbing

Climbing August 2015

Climbing offers the entire climbing world: sport, trad, bouldering, walls, ice, alpine and mountains. In each issue we offer the richest stories on the vertical world you'll ever read, with award-winning photography. Climbing has earned its moniker as the journal of record for climbers worldwide.

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País:
United States
Idioma:
English
Editor:
Pocket Outdoor Media, LLC
Periodicidad:
Bimonthly
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5,08 €(IVA inc.)
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12,67 €(IVA inc.)
6 Números

en este número

3 min.
in memory of dean potter

On Saturday evening, May 16, Dean Potter and his frequent BASE partner Graham Hunt died after attempting a wingsuit flight from Taft Point, a 7,500-foot promontory overlooking Yosemite Valley. Potter was one of the most innovative, energizing, and controversial figures in modern climbing. He broke barriers in speed and solo climbing, including repeatedly setting the speed record for the Nose of El Capitan, climbing with Timmy O’Neill and the late Sean “Stanley” Leary. In 2001, he and O’Neill became the first climbers to link Yosemite’s three biggest walls—Half Dome, Mt. Watkins, and El Capitan—in a single day. He also speed soloed Half Dome and El Capitan in a day. In Patagonia, among other bold climbs, he free soloed Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy and later did the solo first ascent of the…

1 min.
contributors

[Jesse Huey] Born in Washington’s Cascades and now calling Boulder, Colorado home, climbing has been at the forefront of Jesse’s life for as long as he can remember. He’s free climbed El Capitan in a day, put up first ascents in Asia and Patagonia, and seen plenty of blank corners along the way. Get his best stemming advice on page 28. [Andrew Tower] Andrew “Hunter S.” Tower moved to California three years ago, after the demise of Urban Climber, a magazine he briefly helmed. He now has a day job at a startup, retains a lucrative contributing editor position at Climbing, and makes an annual pilgrimage to 24HHH, the funnest, hardest, whisky-est climbing event worldwide. His gonzo report starts on page 54. [The Vonimal] Von Davis was three when he tied in for his first…

2 min.
fly free, dean

Thirteen years ago, my buddy Jeff and I were regulars at this dank little cave of a gym in Wind Gap, Pennsylvania. Aside from a few boulders in the woods on the edge of town, the North Summit Climbing Gym was the closest climbing to the publishing company where I’d just scored my first full-time, year-round, big-boy job. This was well before climbing gyms became glowing, cathedral-size, psychedelic works of architectural art with yoga and coaches and cross-training classes. North Summit had maybe 25 routes and a small bouldering area surrounding a floor layered six inches deep with shredded tires. It was a total blast, because we made the best of it, and we felt like we were doing something way cooler than average folks around us. After weeknight sessions, we’d head…

3 min.
unsolicited beta

If you ever need an article on older climbers, I would like to be considered. I am 80 years old, still lead 5.8, follow 5.10, whitewater kayak class III, mountain bike moderate single-track trails, and powder ski in Wyoming (waist-high if available). I also have three first ascents at Sugarloaf in Kyburz, California. —Ron Brown, Sacramento, CA You’re an inspiration, Ron. We hope to be half as badass as you at 40. Keep on crushing! Regarding the February 2015 cover: Wow! A climber on the cover wearing a helmet! Awesome! And he’s not wearing culottes like my sister or mom! Wow! And his pants aren’t rolled up like my 4-yearold son’s! Best. Cover. Ever. At least in a long time. Keep up the good work, you crazy trendsetters. —Anonymous Just giving a quick shout-out…

1 min.
#kidcrushers

Five-year-old Ben climbing Cooper’s Boulder in the Bugaboos. —STEVEN HUGHES My daughter, Manoela, age 3, climbing the first pitch of Ronco do Bugio (5.5) in Pico da Canastra, Brazil. Manoela is now 8 and loves to climb. —RAFAEL ZENNI Isaiah, 4, on his first outdoor 5.6 at the Ice Cream Parlor in Moab. —MARK ENGIBOUS My niece Jessica on her first climb at age 5 in 1983. She loved it! Sadly, the state of Illinois has since closed up our little crag. —MARK PETNUCH This is my son, Case, learning to climb in Eldorado Canyon when he was 2. He’s 3 now. —KEVIN COCHRANE 21-month-old Dylan cranks on a flake in Tuolumne. —DAN MOLNER Our son Micah at 18 months, working on his try-hard face as he cruises up a 5.1 toprope route at the Red River Gorge, Kentucky. —YOLANDA CHEN Charlotte Coates samples…

1 min.
dean potter: a history in climbing

“DEAN POTTER SHUNS the media like an 8-year-old shuns vegetables, but it hasn’t kept his name out of the magazines.” Thus read the first line of a Dean Potter description in a March 2000 Climbing article titled “The A-Team: The 11 Best Climbers in America Today.” It’s true, Potter successfully avoided the spotlight for years. The first real bit of coverage he received in Climbing was after he free soloed the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome and smashed the route’s speed record. Not a bad introduction. From that point it seemed like Potter couldn’t stay out of the magazines. He did manage to come to terms with his celebrity. As written in a November 1999 profile by Jeff Achey, “Dean doesn’t want to be in the limelight on the…